MECHANICAL ZERO - how to reset a scope

I guess you could google how many clicks it should have and then go all the way in one direction without forcing it any further than normal clicks feel and then count half the adjustment range back.

Idk if this is frowned upon but it’s the only way I’d imagine.
 
I just adjust it all the way in one direction until I feel the first click that offers some resistance and then I turn it all the way to the opposite direction until I feel the first click that offers some resistance. I count how many clicks it takes to get from one end to the other then divide it in half and set it accordingly.
Just don't force it at either end and you have nothing to worry about. Scopes are made to move through their entire adjustment range.
 
The easy way to do such is to put the objective end over a mirror, then you will see two sets of crosshairs, one fainter than the other. Zero out the scope till only one set is visable. Can also place a piece of glass over top of the mirror to let a bit more light in.
 
The easy way to do such is to put the objective end over a mirror, then you will see two sets of crosshairs, one fainter than the other. Zero out the scope till only one set is visable. Can also place a piece of glass over top of the mirror to let a bit more light in.

This is the way I do it. As mentioned, the tricky part is getting enough light through the lens when it's against the mirror. I use a bright flashlight held to the side --- since the mirror is glass with silver on the far side, there's enough of a gap to allow some light in, but if not, the suggestion of adding a second piece of glass should work great.
 
The easy way to do such is to put the objective end over a mirror, then you will see two sets of crosshairs, one fainter than the other. Zero out the scope till only one set is visable. Can also place a piece of glass over top of the mirror to let a bit more light in.

Wow, that's interesting, thank you neos.
 
The easy way to do such is to put the objective end over a mirror, then you will see two sets of crosshairs, one fainter than the other. Zero out the scope till only one set is visable. Can also place a piece of glass over top of the mirror to let a bit more light in.

This is a generous tip...................... thanks.
 
The reason I know about this is that I had a scope problem a while ago so I did a lot of searching. Everything that I came up to was that I should mechanically zero my scope. So after that, Dr.Google and Dr.YouTube were my best friends. I thought that it was actually a joke, but...... It is very interesting to say the least.
 
I like the shoe box method. Centre the reticle using the "click" counting method first then fine tune with a 'shoebox' -- if the shoebox wont stay put ... staple the bottom to a flat board... or use a square tupper ware container
 
Interesting to see how it is done, but I fail to see why anyone would ever need to zero a scope? I only care about the zero in relation to POI of my rifle?
 
If the scope was not mechanically centered, it could be possible to run out of adjustment when your trying to get your poi to match poa.
 
For my purposes it was a used scope maxed out. As well, I like to shim my scope if possible to close to zero so I have maximum equal tuning. This is just me. As Well, some bases have full adjustment. That is the reason I see.
 
For my purposes it was a used scope maxed out. As well, I like to shim my scope if possible to close to zero so I have maximum equal tuning. This is just me. As Well, some bases have full adjustment. That is the reason I see.

I'd suggest getting a 20 or 30 moa rail than shim it any day of the week!
 
A long time ago, I was taught to check rotor head alignment on Bell Kiowa helicopters using a set of vee blocks and a rifle scope.

The scope was to be checked that it was centred by rotating it on a vee block fixture while sighting through it, at a target in the distance. By watching the crosshair either stay on the target, or hula hoop around it, you could adjust the scope until it was perfectly centred.
Seems to me, pretty much anything that vaguely resembled a vee notch could be used, centering first one axis, then the other. Once catered, then adjust the elevation to take into account the required elevation adjustments, no?
 
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