Medium game caliber for the recoil sensitive?

.270 will serve you well and you can get factory ammo anywhere that sells ammo.

The most important thing for recoil management is to select a rifle with a stock that fits you. A quality recoil pad will also help.

I would also recommend a PAST Recoil Shield. This is a pad that straps to your shoulder. Use it for sighting in and practice. You likely won't find recoil much of a problem for shots fired while hunting.

What he said!!! That is more important then the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in!
 
6.5x55 Swede is a great all around caliber, especially if you are going to reload. If you are deer or moose hunting 6.5x55 in Hornady 140gr is available thru Wholesale at a great price. Purchase as much as you can afford ($16 dangerous goods fee per shipment), if your going to reload you'll need the brass anyway. My 15 year old shoots it with no problem and he's not quite as big as you. My go to rifle is a 270 and the 6.5x55 definitely has less recoil, but again there are so many factors to consider (rifle weight, stock design, stock fit, recoil pad). I shoot out at the Mission club and your welcome to take a few shots with my 6.5x55, unfortunately I'm working on my 270 right now so it's in pieces. If you go the 6.5x55 route check out Trade Ex which is where I got my 6.5x55, great guys to deal with and they have several from $240 to $750. Good luck.

http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=view&gid=5&iid=2150

http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=view&gid=5&iid=5018
 
If you really love a lever action, you'd love a Savage 99.

That's what I hunt with and I took my first elk with it last year at around 500 yards. Mine is the 99C with the removable 4 round magazine as seen in the following ad:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339953&highlight=savage

I also have a 99E as my backup in case I break my scope or something silly while out hunting. That has the built in 5 round rotary magazine. The rotary built in loads/unloads slower than the removable magazine so that's why my 99C is my primary. I was able to purchase a few spare mag's from the Numrich website.

If memory serves me, the recoil on my .308 is no worse or better than a .270 or a 30-06.
 
I've got a 30-06 myself for hunting it seems to do the trick pretty good for me.

I'm also around the same size as you, 5'10 145 pounds don't really notice it having to much kick.

270 is also a good round.

What part of the lower mainland are you? If you're around Chilliwack could always see how you like my 30-06.

It's always nice to test a few guns out before getting something.
 
This line of thought can be a trap. Consider the two loads for the .270 Winchester, one with the 130 gr bullet and the other with a 150 gr bullet. Let's assume both bullet weights are loaded to maximum pressure with the same powder. The lighter 130 gr bullet has less mass, but it is propelled by a larger powder charge. The heavier bullet has greater mass but it is propelled by a smaller powder charge; so when fired in the same rifle the recoil will be similar despite the difference in bullet weight.

Trap? It's just a general statement that holds true pretty well most of the time. Similar, yes. But still more recoil, although not by much.

With my .30-06 using the same brand of bullets (Winchester PowerPoints). 150's were lighter on the shoulder compared to the 180's.

Take a look a these tables.

h ttp://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm
 
Recoil aside don't forget meat damage and usable range, take a look at these tables...

h t t p://www.eabco.com/Reports/report05.htm
 
This line of thought can be a trap. Consider the two loads for the .270 Winchester, one with the 130 gr bullet and the other with a 150 gr bullet. Let's assume both bullet weights are loaded to maximum pressure with the same powder. The lighter 130 gr bullet has less mass, but it is propelled by a larger powder charge. The heavier bullet has greater mass but it is propelled by a smaller powder charge; so when fired in the same rifle the recoil will be similar despite the difference in bullet weight.

If you're loading both bullet weights to around maximum with the same powder, you aren't likely to be using that much less powder with the heavier bullet. For example, using Hodgdon's online data for IMR 4831, there is only a 2.8 grain difference between maximum loads between 130 and 150 grain Hornady softpoints.

Recoil is a function of the weight of the gun, the weight and velocity of the bullet, and the weight of the powder charge. The momentum of the gun recoiling is the same as that of the bullet moving at its muzzle velocity plus the mass of powder moving at some average velocity.
 
I just look at the title and know this posting will get legs of its own and go on, and on, and maybe on.
Therefore, If you are confused now, you will be confused with a capital C, after yo have read it all.


Too true. I have to agree with H4831 and say you will get everyone else's opinon and you will end up just as confused as when you started. Go out to the range, borrow some rifles, shoot a few and see what you like. Buy what has the least recoil and fits best.

My advice is bulk up and quit being a baby. My wife is aobut the same weight/height and she shoots a 30-06. Probably cuz she is a lot hotter and carries more weight on the top shelf!

All joking aside, you gotta do what's best for you not what someone else recommends or you will end up unhappy. Just my 2 cents
 
Okay, here's my 2 cents worth on this thread. I'm pretty average build at 6' and around the 210 lbs mark. I grew up with the Lee Enfield .303 as a hunting rifle, and have pretty much stuck to .30 calibre for my hunting (ie: .303 brit, .308 win and 8mm mauser). I found the Lee a punisher with that metal butt plate, and now that I'm older, I like something softer on the shoulders. I put a Pachmayr "Decelerator" recoil pad on my custom Lee Enfield, and I could blast off 50 - 100 rds at the range with no discomfort. IMHO, get a rifle with the right length of pull, if need be, cut down the stock to keep that length of pull with the fitting of the above mentioned recoil pad, and even if you don't have a lot of muscle mass in the shoulders, I'd be willing to bet the farm that you would find shooting A LOT more comfortable in any standard .30 cal. family.
 
If recoil is all that matters then go with the 30/30 and accept the limitations of the lever action it's chambered in. For minimum recoil and efficiency it has to be the 6.5x55. For versatility the 30 calibers, the 308 and 30/06 are good if you plan on buying only one rifle ever, and you are less recoil sensitive. The question is what you can shoot accurately. Felt recoil and recoil calculated in ft/lbs are not the same at all. You've got to have a stock that fits you well and a good recoil pad will work wonders--the second most important investment you can make after sights or scope. I've got a 6.5x55 that weighs in at just over 6lb with a compact scope and a good recoil pad and I could shoot it al day, no problem. But I've got another another 6.5x55 that weighs in at 8 1/2 lb that I just can't enjoy shooting because of the stock not fitting me well.
 
....I'd go with a .270, 2nd choice 7-08, 3rd .308 Win. If you can, find a rifle with minimal drop at heel. Recoil will be straight back, muzzle will jump less. It helps some folks.

I would hook up with some lads in your area who reload. Buy your own dies, manual etc. They will help you perhaps work up some low power loads to practice with. I know Remington makes some Managed Recoil ammuntion thats fun to play with, you could break your rifle in with that. It's available in .270, 7-08 and .308.


Plus, for your first few rounds, shoot standing. I would warm up with a .22 first, standing, then switch to your new rod. Fire a shot or two, then hop back on the .22.

You will be ok......
 
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If you're loading both bullet weights to around maximum with the same powder, you aren't likely to be using that much less powder with the heavier bullet. For example, using Hodgdon's online data for IMR 4831, there is only a 2.8 grain difference between maximum loads between 130 and 150 grain Hornady softpoints.

Recoil is a function of the weight of the gun, the weight and velocity of the bullet, and the weight of the powder charge. The momentum of the gun recoiling is the same as that of the bullet moving at its muzzle velocity plus the mass of powder moving at some average velocity.

If you don't think 2.8 grs of powder is very much, just over load your 130 gr max load by 2.8 grs and see how much that increases your recoil . . . and other problems.

The Nosler Manual (#6) indicates a 4 gr difference (H-4831) between the maximum loads for the 130 and 150 gr bullets. The difference in recoil between these two loads results in 2 ft/lbs more recoil for the heavier bullet when both rounds are fired in the same 8 pound rifle. If you think that 2 pounds of recoil is the difference between acceptable an nonacceptable recoil your recoil tolerance is better defined than most of the .270 shooters I know. A .270 kicks like a .270 when it is loaded to maximum regardless of the bullet weight. If the 150 gr load makes you flinch, so will the 130 gr load.

The way to reduce recoil with any given cartidge is to reduce the powder charge and the velocity. It doesn't matter which cartridge you shoot or which bullet weight you choose. A little less powder means a little less recoil.
 
Lots of good advice here, but IMHO it doesn't matter which rifle or cartridge you choose because the best way to manage recoil to to load your own ammo. I can load ammo that you could shoot without discomfort in my .375 Ultra carbine. Any cartridge can be loaded so that the recoil it generates is manageable by any shooter. Handloading has benefits ranging from saving money to squeezing additional accuracy out of your rifle, but one of the most often over looked advantages is that your ammo can be tailored to your comfort level. Having done that, it is a simple matter to slowly increase the velocity as your tolerance for recoil grows. The more you shoot, the faster you become tolerant of recoil, and handloading, aside from being a worthwhile and enjoyable activity, allows you to shoot more. Choose the rifle that appeals to you. Choose the cartridge that grabs your imagination, load up some moderate velocity ammo in 100 round batches (some manuals like the one from Speer provide light load data) and start shooting.

I agree with Boomer, I wish I had started reloading 50 years ago.
If I could only have one rifle I would go for a338 wm, you can reload up or down to hunt anything in North America and you would grow into full power loads. By the way I have owned two ,but dont have one at the moment. Once you get started you wont be happy with one rifle.
 
Another caliber thread...

So, I'm new to the sport and would like to start hunting in BC (Lower Mainland).
YES, I have searched! I have read tons of threads on CGN, HBC, TFL, THR, Cabelas... the more I read the more confused I get...

I'm basically looking for a medium game (deer/bear, mayyyybe up to moose) caliber for hunting in my area that won't kick me into tomorrow's land.

Main considerations:
- I'm quite, uh, "skinny" (5"11', 145lbs), so recoil is definitely an issue. Actually THE main issue.
- Ammo price/availability is important
- For now I don't reload (will eventually do, but not for now)

From what I have read:
- 6.5x55 and 7mm-08 sound *very* sweet, but they seem to be handloaders' rounds.
- 243: overbore, expensive and on the lighter side
- 25-06: on paper it seems quite good. Not sure about price.
- 260: many consider it a "lady" caliber.. <sigh>
- 30-30: love the lever action rifles, cheap ammo, limited range but then again I'm in BC's Lower Mainland. Could be a problem if I decide to go mountain sheep/goat hunting maybe?
- 270 / 308: apparently can't really go wrong with either. 308 has the advantage for practicing with milsurp?
- 30-06: the holy grail, but for a feather weight newbie like me it could be too much?

I visited Reliable today, explained my situation and 30 seconds later I was holding a .270 X-bolt. Felt pretty nice, but then again, I'm no expert.

Please... help...!

you say you like lever rifles? you also say you like 308.

problem solved, get a marlin xlr in 308 or a browning blr.

i have used marlin in 45/ 70 and browning blr in 308. they are fine machines!
there speed is astounding on the second shot(so great for dangerous game).

i myself would not reccomend anything lower than a 30 type cal and still go for bear let alone moose. if on the odd chance you get a bad round that does not expand you will at least have a ok sized hole.
 
All common sense recomendations, personally I will go for the 308, the 270 recoils a little more. Also, you have more options on scopes (or at least more play for eye relief) for a short action like the 308.

The problem with the most recommended choices (380, 270, 30-06) is that you'll never find a valid reason to spend money on an additional rifle. Go for the 30-30, 243 or the like and start thinking on your next rifle :)
 
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