Mercury recoil suppressor

Had a 375 WM with a merc tube in a Ruger #1.
Got a video of my 13 year old daughter shooting it...np.
Maybe it is 'Gimicy'... no one told her though.
It was in line with the bore... could put an ear to the comb and raise and lower the muzzle...here the mercury 'slosh'
 
Just got back from the range, I would say it does make a difference and that is only with a 11oz added to the rifle, so I don’t know if adding that same weight in led would have made the same difference, feels more like my 9.3x62 now. It feels also better and seems like less muzzle lift too. Anyway that’s it that’s how she’s gonna stay! Thank you all for the comments and concerns hahaha have a good one!!
 
Just got back from the range, I would say it does make a difference and that is only with a 11oz added to the rifle, so I don’t know if adding that same weight in led would have made the same difference, feels more like my 9.3x62 now. It feels also better and seems like less muzzle lift too. Anyway that’s it that’s how she’s gonna stay! Thank you all for the comments and concerns hahaha have a good one!!
Well, it's obvious to me that you can turn the power up again, seeing as there's less recoil!:ROFLMAO:
 
No. None of our tubes leaked. One of my friends smoked a high end brand that came in aluminum tubes, with internally threaded aluminum caps.

We sealed the threads with Lok Tite.

Mercury can be absorbed through your skin, so don't touch it without wearing non permeable gloves. The gas is deadly as well, but works much more quickly.
They must have had a plastic liner in them. Mercury aggressively corrodes aluminum, even a drop of it can "eat" through a lot of aluminum before it's amalgamated. The mercury strips off the oxidized layer and allows oxygen to finish the aluminum off. A few drops can eat through a half inch aluminum plate. Well not so much eat through it but built a huge tower of aluminum oxide. The YouTube videos are neat.
 
When they liquify the mercury out of a gas (which is also ####ing nasty), they use plastic/synthetic spheres in lined towers.

The spheres and linings need to be changed out once in a while because the gas/mercury will wear it out, too...
 
I had 2 installed in my .500 N.E., built on a Ruger #1 40+ years ago. They were installed parallel to the bore & had electrical wrapped around them so that they were real snug in the holes drilled into the butt-stock. They were installed so that the back edge of them were touching the back of the Silvers recoil pad.

I cannot attest to their effectiveness, as I did not shoot the rifle before they were installed, as it was custom-stocked, as well as being re-barrelled from .45-70, but I will say that the recoil on it felt SUBSTANTIALLY less than the recoil from factory loads in my 9.5# Whitworth in .458 Winchester. The recoil from that rifle was just stupid. 3 rounds felt like I had gone a couple of rounds in the ring & had had my bell rung a few times. I actually felt giddy but dizzy after doing that & saw stars for a few minutes. I could shoot 10 rounds of .500 [570 gr. bullets @ 2,100 fps.] before it was no longer "fun".

Calculations in LFAD suggest that the recoil of the .500 N.E., despite its heavier weight, should have been 10% more than the .458.
I have couple of mercury suppressors sitting idle. There are two boomers that I need to install them in. 1st is a one of a kind wildcat ( 500 SCOTT) based on the RUM family of cartridges. The case is cut off at the bottom of the neck and a .500 S&W bullet installed. It's more of a big shove than a punch. 2nd is a 450 Marlin married to a # 4 L.E. With a plastic butt plate and a tee-shirt it is anything but enjoyable to shoot with the Hornady Lever Evolution factory ammo. A chicken pad tames the 450 quite a bit.
 
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So, if I understand correctly, to describe in a pseudo-scientific format;

Let’s say you have an 8lb 458WM, it has a bit much kick.. you install a 1 lb. Mercury recoil reducer.

Now when you pull the trigger, the harsh initial jerk of the rifle from recoil, accelerates a total of 9 lbs, the fast jerk causes the non-Newtonian fluid (mercury) to act as a solid.

The speed of the stock moving towards your shoulder is travelling at 8/9 of the speed it would before the install.

It has some small distance to travel, as it compresses the butt pad, but now at a slower speed.

As the butt pad compresses and then basically bounces forward, the mercury is travelling for a further distance, is dispersed and now acting as a fluid.

The peak force of an 8 lb rifle which is moving at the speed of a 9lb rifle takes place on your shoulder. The fluid is still travelling rearward after that moment has taken place. As the fluid splatters against the back of the tube, the remaining force of mass in motion is not being applied to your shoulder at the peak moment, but perhaps to the stock as it sort of rebounds off your shoulder.

Your shoulder feels the peak force, which when spread out is a lower peak with the same amount of overall energy.

Hypothetically you could do this with a weight and a spring. You’d avoid the “splash” but you would get a “twok” sounds as it was spring forward into the walnut pocket.
 
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So, if I understand correctly, to describe in a pseudo-scientific format;

Let’s say you have an 8lb 458WM, it has a bit much kick.. you install a 1 lb. Mercury recoil reducer.

Now when you pull the trigger, the harsh initial jerk of the rifle from recoil, accelerates a total of 9 lbs, the fast jerk causes the non-Newtonian fluid (mercury) to act as a solid.

The speed of the stock moving towards your shoulder is travelling at 8/9 of the speed it would before the install.

It has some small distance to travel, as it compresses the butt pad, but now at a slower speed.

As the butt pad compresses and then basically bounces forward, the mercury is travelling for a further distance, is dispersed and now acting as a fluid.

The peak force of an 8 lb rifle which is moving at the speed of a 9lb rifle takes place on your shoulder. The fluid is still travelling rearward after that moment has taken place. As the fluid splatters against the back of the tube, the remaining force of mass in motion is not being applied to your shoulder at the peak moment, but perhaps to the stock as it sort of rebounds off your shoulder.

Your shoulder feels the peak force, which when spread out is a lower peak with the same amount of overall energy.

Hypothetically you could do this with a weight and a spring. You’d avoid the “splash” but you would get a “twok” sounds as it was spring forward into the walnut pocket.
The spring thing has been done. - dan
 
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And if you don’t want any noise you could use a weight and elastomer “springs” like it was used in old mountain bikes front suspensions. It might be tricky to find the right combination of elastomers and weight but it can be done. Or since most people think that just a weight is as effective as the mercury tube, just had weight to the gun and call it a day…
Handling the gun with the tube in I can hear the mercury sloshing around if I pay attention and shake the gun vigorously but otherwise I don’t notice it!
 
I actually haven’t looked into the spring thing much.. but what side of the weight the spring is on is very relevant
Would you not put a spring on both side…. Maybe different stiffness… I have no clue.
 
Would you not put a spring on both side…. Maybe different stiffness… I have no clue.
You’d put it between the weight and your shoulder, recoil would accelerate both, hard to describe but it would kind of be a delay behind the rest of the stock hitting first and then it after..

Non-Newtonian / Newtonian blunder there
 
^^ Yeah, those 458whims are way lighter loads, really nothing in comapre to a 3 1/2" goose shell at two ounces.

It's not really comparable.
 
^^ Yeah, those 458whims are way lighter loads, really nothing in comapre to a 3 1/2" goose shell at two ounces.

It's not really comparable.
Ya, those have some kick to them. No experience with the 458 yet but I have owned a couple 300WM and a 300 WBY.

Weight makes a difference between them all
 
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