Metal finish options?

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Freyr_255

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So I have a Winchester 1895 carbine that's been on my to restore list for like a decade. Don't worry, it was in bad shape when I got it as my first personally owned rifle. So its got a bit of sentimental value. Shoots beautifully regardless of bore pitting.

That aside. I have a new stock and I stripped it years ago with the intention of having it reblued but never found anyone to do it. So, my question is, what are some options that I can do myself? I understand a hot bluing tank is kinda annoying to whip up. Although I guess for a one off I could just use regular ol' steel and a torch? Thoughts and suggestions?
 
I am looking at trying out slow rust blueing - you just need to make a damp box (PVC pipe will work) and have a container long enough to boil the barreled action. The chemical is wipe on, the boiling converts the red rust to black - or magnetite. This is not the same as cold blue.
 
Looking into rust bluing, I might give it a shot. Seems like I should just be able to use hydrochloric acid on its own? Wiki tells me hydrochloric and nitric but I can't see the rationale for both if it just needs to rust. After that anything metal and long enough to boil it in.

Honestly most of my motivation to try this is that hydrochloric is available everywhere. And I dislike sourcing chemicals lol!

Side note. I went and looked it up. Nitric acid and hydrochloric acid forms Aqua regia. Suffice to say, not something I wish to play with.
 
If you want to, find a copy of Angier's Bluing And Browning Of Firearms.

More to it by a long shot, than just acid.

Some folks have used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown as their rusting agent.
 
Here are some shots of my 'sweat box' (right now filled with dry and canned goods ;) - so you can use that as an excuse to the wife :) ) It also seals so it can be used for fuming as well.

I don't recommend messing about with acids unless you know what you are doing and or are just interested in the composition/process - it's far easier to just buy a solution ...

These were done with Pecatonica (??) river browning solution, fun fact. most browning agents can also be used for bluing... :)



rust_browning.jpg


box01.jpg


box02.jpg


brwn01.jpg


brwn01.jpg
 
I appreciate the feedback. Honestly I have the HCl laying around anyways so that's why I figured it would be the easiest. I actually have an unlabeled jar here that I believe is supposed to be nitric acid, but it came with the place so I really don't know for sure that's what it is.

Is the finish using a fume box better than wiping it down? I assume it's slower and more even than using a wipe on method for rusting?
 
sean69 said:
Here are some shots of my 'sweat box' (right now filled with dry and canned goods ;) - so you can use that as an excuse to the wife :) ) It also seals so it can be used for fuming as well.

I don't recommend messing about with acids unless you know what you are doing and or are just interested in the composition/process - it's far easier to just buy a solution ...

These were done with Pecatonica (??) river browning solution, fun fact. most browning agents can also be used for bluing... :)



How do you generate the steam or moisture in your box and how do you keep the relative humidity stable?
Click to expand...
 
Freyr_255 said:
I appreciate the feedback. Honestly I have the HCl laying around anyways so that's why I figured it would be the easiest. I actually have an unlabeled jar here that I believe is supposed to be nitric acid, but it came with the place so I really don't know for sure that's what it is.

Is the finish using a fume box better than wiping it down? I assume it's slower and more even than using a wipe on method for rusting?
Click to expand...

it is slower, and easier to control but the 'evenness' all depends on surface prep and method of application (and evenness of application) - if you use a mild browning solution and into the box, it will generally be rusted right up within 24 hours, usually less.
This thing is no good to you at all if you are express bluing, but SUPER convenient for browning - one of those "damn glad I built that" moments. AND it doubles as a pantry when it's empty of gun parts :)


MBiz said:
Here are some shots of my 'sweat box' (right now filled with dry and canned goods ;) - so you can use that as an excuse to the wife :) ) It also seals so it can be used for fuming as well.

I don't recommend messing about with acids unless you know what you are doing and or are just interested in the composition/process - it's far easier to just buy a solution ...

These were done with Pecatonica (??) river browning solution, fun fact. most browning agents can also be used for bluing... :)



How do you generate the steam or moisture in your box and how do you keep the relative humidity stable?
Click to expand...

The doors are sealed with weather stripping, all I have to do is put a medium sized dish of boiled water (not boiling) in the bottom and it will stay humid nearly indefinitely, the heat dissipates probably within 6 hours or so, but by then it is well on it's way. Since the box is sealed the humidity just stays relatively stable for a good 12-24 hours ... plenty of time. Generally well prepared parts will start to rust within a few hours.

In fact, I have to be very careful with the temperature of the water as if it is too hot condensation will start forming on the parts and fog up the glass - I keep a little thermometer/moisture sensor in there and keep an eye on it for the first hour or so opening the door if the humidity is above 70% or so.

Actually you can see both the tub of water the sensor in the picture, it seems that one was fogging up so the door was probably open to let some heat out.

I was planning on putting a light bulb in the bottom for a heat source, but as it turns out - I don't need it. works just fine without the hassle :)
 
Freyr_255 said:
Looking into rust bluing, I might give it a shot. Seems like I should just be able to use hydrochloric acid on its own? Wiki tells me hydrochloric and nitric but I can't see the rationale for both if it just needs to rust. After that anything metal and long enough to boil it in.

Honestly most of my motivation to try this is that hydrochloric is available everywhere. And I dislike sourcing chemicals lol!

Side note. I went and looked it up. Nitric acid and hydrochloric acid forms Aqua regia. Suffice to say, not something I wish to play with.
Click to expand...

Don’t know much about metal finishing but when something must be really clean Aqua regia will get it he job done. Dangerous though
 
call2arms said:
Don’t know much about metal finishing but when something must be really clean Aqua regia will get it he job done. Dangerous though
Click to expand...

Ya I know lol! Frankly the only reason I can see for using diluted Aqua regia is to get rid of any residual organics or it might just be faster acting since it's so ungodly oxidizing. That said, the prerequisite for making magnetite (Fe3O4) from hematite (rust, Fe2O3) is just plain old rust and boiling water with adjacent iron to react. So I really see zero reason HCl shouldn't work on its own. Specifically diluted HCl. If it's too strong it'll just pull the iron into solution.
 
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