Metal repair suggestions

[ssapach]

I have a small issue with a part I recently had case hardened. First of all, I'm not blaming the work that was done, as I'm more than happy with the finished product. What happened is just an unfortunate result of very thin steel that was included in the case hardening process.

In the photo, the skateboard shaped flat piece is the filler for the opening in the bottom metal/trigger guard for the Ross 1905. To the left of the opening, there was a small lip that helped to hold this filler plate in place. The lip was such thin steel, that it broke off in a few pieces as soon as I tried to stick this plate back in place.

I'd like to put this filler piece back in, but of course it won't simply stay put on it's own now. Any ideas to hold it in place? A good epoxy perhaps? Nothing that will damage the colours of the bottom metal, as if that's the only route then I'll leave it open and live with it.

For what it's worth, the filler plate is also spring steel.

Here's a little closer look at the area where the thin lip of steel broke off:

 

[mr.e moose]

Tin the floor plate and the trigger guard where the piece is broken with solder with a tinning iron. Heat a clean iron and join the two, the temperature should not affect the case colours.

 

[trevj]

Can you file up a substitute for the part out of mild steel. Rivet or spot weld a doubler inside the magazine? Screwed together, blued to match the original, maybe?

 

[tigrr]

flip the filler plate over and take another pic. Did the pieces break off the receiver or the filler plate?
Clean off the finish that is inside the groove before using JB weld or Epoxy.

 

[ssapach]

Tin the floor plate and the trigger guard where the piece is broken with solder with a tinning iron. Heat a clean iron and join the two, the temperature should not affect the case colours.

Any particular solder to consider? I'm a little worried the heat might discolour the bluing on the filler plate, or that some solder might flow out and be visible afterwards.

Can you file up a substitute for the part out of mild steel. Rivet or spot weld a doubler inside the magazine? Screwed together, blued to match the original, maybe?

There is a possibility to make a new piece. I'm just not sure I totally follow your idea. The original filler is very thin, not something that would even allow me to have a small screw countersunk into it. The backing I would have to attach it to is the actual magazine box, which is removable from the bottom metal by removing 2 small screws. The bottoms of those screws are shown in the second pic. I can try to get a better picture of one of these setups later today.

flip the filler plate over and take another pic. Did the pieces break off the receiver or the filler plate?
Clean off the finish that is inside the groove before using JB weld or Epoxy.

The filler plate looks the same on either side. Essentially it could go in either way, front to back, upside down or whatever. The only thing is that it has a bit of a bend to it, I'm assuming to help keep it sprung in place. The piece that was actually broken was the bottom metal/trigger guard.


I have other pieces that aren't broken yet, I can get one today for a better pictures. Worst case scenario, I can send a different one away for colour case hardening. I just fear that it might be the same problem all over again.

 

[BrotherRockeye]

I have other pieces that aren't broken yet, I can get one today for a better pictures. Worst case scenario, I can send a different one away for colour case hardening. I just fear that it might be the same problem all over again.

You are likely right.
I suspect that the combination of thin metal (polished before casing) and the case hardening itself made the lip brittle.
Myself I would just use an epoxy to glue the plate into place and a heat gun to remove it.

Nice case colors btw

 

[trevj]

There is a possibility to make a new piece. I'm just not sure I totally follow your idea. The original filler is very thin, not something that would even allow me to have a small screw countersunk into it. The backing I would have to attach it to is the actual magazine box, which is removable from the bottom metal by removing 2 small screws. The bottoms of those screws are shown in the second pic. I can try to get a better picture of one of these setups later today.

Make a new piece as you likely don't want to drill holes or alter the original part.

If I am understanding the part, it slides under the now broken lip, then spring tension holds it in place, yeah?

Make a new outer filler, make a doubler that fits inside the magazine well, make some spacers to allow for whatever space needs filling, rivet or screw them together and finish them as required. It would have to be assembled before the bottom metal is installed on the rifle. If you wanted it to perform as per the original, create a 'hook' doubler that holds against the underside of the bottom metal in place of the lip. Not as easy as just filling the hole.

That would fill the void, look more or less original, and not require alteration of the bottom metal.

I cannot conceive of any other practical and non destructive method to get where you want to be.

If you had access to someone with the grinding equipment, I would suggest scaling up the size of the hole the plate fits in to, so as to make a new set of lips, and then make a new fitted filler, but that is going to affect the case hardening. Not so good at this point.

 

[ssapach]

I talked with Oskar this morning.

Going to actually TIG the filler in place from the inside (just a couple real small tacks) and have the whole assembly re-hardened. That way it won't matter that the filler will lose it's spring temper and the lip that holds it in place will stay put throughout the whole process.

I'll likely be sending the parts for the next gun to him in the next month or so anyways, so it's not a big deal to include another trigger guard. In the meantime, the rifle is still functional without that filler in place.

I appreciate the input from everyone!

 

[double gun]

If you are getting it redone, I personally would start with a fresh bottom metal if you have access to one. Let him tig the filler in that one - at least it will look complete (not broken) from the outside. Just my $0.02