Mfs in SAI M1a loaded

Jtopping

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Picked up 1000 rnds of mfs steal cased .308 ammo and then recently picked up an m1a. My concern it that it will be rough on my barrel even though it is a copper jacketed steal core. Should a guy only shoot lead core brass ammo or will this mfs be okay for it??
 
Picked up 1000 rnds of mfs steal cased .308 ammo and then recently picked up an m1a. My concern it that it will be rough on my barrel even though it is a copper jacketed steal core. Should a guy only shoot lead core brass ammo or will this mfs be okay for it??


The cartridge casing is steel as opposed to brass, the bullet should be copper jacketed lead. No issues, I put 500 of it through my norc, no problem. Even if the bullet had a steel core, the jacketing is thick enough to prevent any contact between core and barrel.
 
ya..... I don't use that stuff anymore.
had one lodge just in the lands, the powder sent the core down to target but what was left of the bullet remained in the bore, preventing the next round from chambering.
I have pics of the bullet. headspace and all was acceptable and the chamber/bore less than 500 rounds from new. dunno if it was a fluke happening, but I don't use that stuff. I've heard the cases are hard on the extractors as well, and can cause problems there as well.... but this is the internet and I can only speak too my own direct experience.
 
I have no problem firing good quality steel cased ammo, Hornady steel match, in a rifle but I would never use copper washed in a $2,000 rifle.
 
ya..... I don't use that stuff anymore.
had one lodge just in the lands, the powder sent the core down to target but what was left of the bullet remained in the bore, preventing the next round from chambering.
I have pics of the bullet. headspace and all was acceptable and the chamber/bore less than 500 rounds from new. dunno if it was a fluke happening, but I don't use that stuff. I've heard the cases are hard on the extractors as well, and can cause problems there as well.... but this is the internet and I can only speak too my own direct experience.

Scary. I know you don't like American Eagle 308 as well. What ammo do you reccomend?
 
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[/URL][/IMG]My SA NM M1A shoot very well the copperwash stuff and is accurate to, the ample chamber is very forgiving of any ammo you will use in it... JP.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! Really appreciate it, cgn is a great source of knowledge with you guys on it... I think I'll just shoot the mfs through my norinco and only bring the m1a out on special occasions I suppose. The joys of having both!
 
Scary. I know you don't like American Eagle 308 as well. What ammo do you reccomend?

I primarily shoot federal blue box (power shok 150gr) , federal gold medal match for heavier bullets and norinco surplus. Zero issues for me in chinese or all brands of american made M14 types.
Sitting in my treestand right now as I type this, with the safety on and federal 150gr powershok in the pipe of my LRB shorty, waiting for mr 5x6 mulie who has so far eluded me this year. LOL
 
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MFS ammo is a very dirty ammo from my experience. I found Norc's ammo is more accurate and cleaner than MFS.
But still, I would not use any copper washed or steel case ammo in my M1A. Just like you won't fill up your Porsche with low grade fuel.

My 2 cent.
 
I removed 10 Norinco surplus at random from a crate 1200

Powder: 40.4 to 41 gr
bullet: 145.8 to 147.6 gr
brass: from 1.998-2.008
total length of 2.774-2.786

10 surplus Hirtenberger

Powder: 43.9 to 45.8 including 8 between 44 and 44.4gr
bullet: 145.8 to 146.5 which 7, 146 gr
brass: from 2.003-2.007, including 8 in 2.006
Total length: 2.774-2.786 including 8 between 2.777 and 2.782

not bad for the surplus
I've seen worse in famous brands
 
Oddly the mfs would not feed into my ruger scout half the time but my Springfield ate the 80 rounds I put through it like a champ with reasonable accuracy on clays at 150 yards
 
I read an article on steel cased ammo vs brass in AR15, I know we are talking about m14/305, anyways the final conclusion was that steel cased bimetal ammo reduced the barrel life by 50%. The barrels needed to be replaced after 6000-8000 rounds, where others still were shooting within specs after 20k. I can't remember the exact numbers but the difference was huge.
 
Put 20 rds. of MFS 140gr .308 thru a Remmy 700 I just got. The groups were all over the place and I had two failure to fire in 20 rds. Both showed deep primer strikes. IMO, this stuff is garbage! I have to apologize to my rifle now! Problem is good quality US made FMJ ammo is almost impossible to find!
 
My NM M1A just love the coppewash stuff and shoot it quite good for cheap ammo, i like this chinese stufff, it s loaded hot, primer are hard, and they never produce failure... I think this surplus is just more reliable than the cheap commercial conterpart... JP.

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I'm a bit unsure/unclear here....is the Norinco spam-can copper washed, steel cased, non-corrosive ammo not recommended for Springfield "M14" rifles?
I was all set to buy a spam-can for my in coming SA SOCOM16 but now hesitant to pull to trigger on some(pun intended).
 
I'm a bit unsure/unclear here....is the Norinco spam-can copper washed, steel cased, non-corrosive ammo not recommended for Springfield "M14" rifles?
I was all set to buy a spam-can for my in coming SA SOCOM16 but now hesitant to pull to trigger on some(pun intended).

Since it is only 147 gr, i see no problem with it, it is steel case yes, i would be more worried of a steady diet of 180 gr + ammo in a SA... JP.
 
Since it is only 147 gr, i see no problem with it, it is steel case yes, i would be more worried of a steady diet of 180 gr + ammo in a SA... JP.
Ok thanks JP…I'll try a couple hundred rounds and take it from there. What other ammo do you guys recommend for 100yrd "plinking" thats wallet friendly.
 
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