Military Crimp

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TedNugent

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Hey Guys, recently bought 1k LC once fired .308 brass. I was really anxious to get it all resized & deprimed, got it all done in a few days.
I uniformed the primer pockets, trimmed and deburred. Went to press in my 1st few primers(CCI) and ended up crushing the 1st one,
knew something was up right away. I thought about them being crimped but to me, there is no visible difference to any of my other brass.
I guess one clue was that the pocket uniformer was very tight going in to some of them. So, did some reading, turns out most Lake City brass
is crimped from what I read, so I was able to pick up a Lyman reamer which I stuck on my drill. I reamed a few and retried inserting the primers,
but man, they are still awefully snug going in. I still damage the odd one, and one other thing I noticed is they are seating well below the surface.
I don't have a dial indicator, but this may possibly be a good thing, as one article I read says they should be 4 thou below flush to prevent slam fires.
Anyone know if a swage like the Dillon Super swager would work any better than the reamer? When I ream, am hardly seeing any brass come off at all,
sometimes don't see any.
Any clues to help would be appreciated.

Thanks

AR
 
Use your chamfering tool and take the sharp edge off the top of the primer pocket and try seating the primer. It doesn't take much to remove the crimp, but with 1K to do you might want to hold the chamfering tool in an slow running drill chuck.
 
Get a dillon super swage and process them all... it's the only fast, reliable, accurate way to be sure that all 1000 are good to go.
I tried all other methods and only ruined cases. I don't want to bevel my primer pockets until primers fit.

I process ALL my 223 brass through the swager, it takes 5 seconds per brass in and out. should take you 1.5 hours to do all 1000
 
I've done thousands of 7.62X51 cases using the chamfering tool the same way Maynard explained.
 
Kryogen said:
Get a dillon super swage and process them all... it's the only fast, reliable, accurate way to be sure that all 1000 are good to go.
I tried all other methods and only ruined cases. I don't want to bevel my primer pockets until primers fit.

I process ALL my 223 brass through the swager, it takes 5 seconds per brass in and out. should take you 1.5 hours to do all 1000
Click to expand...

+1.
 
Below is my setup for removing the crimp from 5.56/.223 Lake City cases, I use the VDL deburring tool because the angle is steeper and remove 75% of the crimp. I then follow with a RCBS decrimping tool made for their case prep station, and last a Lyman decrimping tool just to double check the primer pocket.



Below is a closeup of the RCBS crimp remover, please notice the tip is tapered so only the crimp is removed and the base is rounded to allow the primer a easy start into the primer pocket.



In the U.S. military drawing below you will see that it is a military requirement for the primer to be .008 below the surface of the case. This is added protection against slamfires if a single case is chambered without the magazine in the rifle to slow the bolt down and its free floating firing pin.



"DO NOT" go bananas with your case mouth deburring tool in your primer pockets. I picked up the case below at the range and took it home and removed the primer. What was strange looking at the range was this 5.56/.223 case looked like it had a large rifle primer in a small rifle case. When the primer was removed it looked like a mushroom so be careful, the RCBS crimp remover is fool proof but its very slow compared to the Dillon super swage.



Below primer removed but the crimp has not been removed.



And a crimp properly removed with the edge of the primer pocket beveled or flared like a commercial case primer pocket. And again note the primer is seated deeper on military cases as stated above and is nothing to worry about.

 
+4

I have done thousands With my Chamfer Tool, with no problems what so ever.

BUT, if the dillon swedger does the trick dependably in seconds, you can do that also.

It all depends on what you prefer to do with your time.
 
bigedp51 said:
Below is my setup for removing the crimp from 5.56/.223 Lake City cases, I use the VDL deburring tool because the angle is steeper and remove 75% of the crimp. I then follow with a RCBS decrimping tool made for their case prep station, and last a Lyman decrimping tool just to double check the primer pocket.



Below is a closeup of the RCBS crimp remover, please notice the tip is tapered so only the crimp is removed and the base is rounded to allow the primer a easy start into the primer pocket.



In the U.S. military drawing below you will see that it is a military requirement for the primer to be .008 below the surface of the case. This is added protection against slamfires if a single case is chambered without the magazine in the rifle to slow the bolt down and its free floating firing pin.



"DO NOT" go bananas with your case mouth deburring tool in your primer pockets. I picked up the case below at the range and took it home and removed the primer. What was strange looking at the range was this 5.56/.223 case looked like it had a large rifle primer in a small rifle case. When the primer was removed it looked like a mushroom so be careful, the RCBS crimp remover is fool proof but its very slow compared to the Dillon super swage.



Below primer removed but the crimp has not been removed.



And a crimp properly removed with the edge of the primer pocket beveled or flared like a commercial case primer pocket. And again note the primer is seated deeper on military cases as stated above and is nothing to worry about.

Click to expand...


Good post! A great idea to show how chamfering can be over done!
 
Sweet, gave this a try with my RCBS chamfering tool and it worked well. Just sucks that I spent the time & money to get the lyman when it does nothing. Thanks for the help, I think when I get the money I'll grab a dillon SS, but for now this works just fine.
 
Ted, go to the hardware store and buy a 3/8"or 1/2" counter-sink tool. About $6.00 Put it in your electric drill and process buckets of brass at a time. Touch each case enough to champfer the primer pocket. primers then seat easily.
 
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