Milling a Slide for a Red Dot

When I researched it a few years ago Black Box customs seemed to be the standard in the industry within Canada. I had my G17 milled out for an RMR and their work was outstanding and I have no hesitation recommending them. Website says $170 which sounds about right for when I did it but I went all out and had extras added into the project. Turn around time beginning with sending it out to them (AB) and getting it back (ON) was a little over 3 weeks.

Hope this helps
 
VanMan said:
If you are always shooting at the same distance, then it makes no difference. If you are shooting varies eg 5-50m, then your hold-over is larger the higher the reflex sight is above the bore.
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If you zero it at 25 yards, and accept that at closer than 25 yards it will shoot low (max being the height of the sights above the bore), the difference at 50 yards between the points of impact are negligible. It will shot 1/2" high a 50 yards. It's not low by 10". What are you guys doing? Zeroing the pistol at 10 yards?
 
Ganderite said:
Yes, this is why I would prefer the milled slide. With a Canik (milled slide) the difference between 10 yards and 25 yards is about 6" If I go with an adapter on the rear sight dovetail, I am guessing more like 10" difference.

The good news is that the hold over is a known number and with an optic it is easy to do.
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6" difference? That makes no sense. What the heck are you doing to get a 6" difference between 10 and 25 yards with a handgun? And 10"? That's not even the drop at 100 yards.

I zero at 25 yards, it shoots slightly low up close, and pretty much bang on at 50 yards.
 
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For a 25 yard zero, the difference in impact is less than the difference in optic height, until you get to long range.

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Grizzlypeg said:
6" difference? That makes no sense. What the heck are you doing to get a 6" difference between 10 and 25 yards with a handgun? And 10"? That's not even the drop at 100 yards.

I zero at 25 yards, it shoots slightly low up close, and pretty much bang on at 50 yards.
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it depends on what sight picture you set up for. When I shoot IPSC, I use a "combat hold" sight picture, and my hold over for varying distances is minimal. For bullseye or target type shooting, I use a 6 o'clock hold sight picture. I get my best groups with this, but hold over for varying distances are much greater.
 
here's a diagram that helps show the difference between point of aim vs point of impact between the two different types of sight pictures (note it doesn't take in account bullet drop). You can see that the higher the sights are from the bore axis, the difference between POA and POI becomes greater, especially with the 6 o'clock hold.

View attachment 358497
 
Grizzlypeg said:
If you zero it at 25 yards, and accept that at closer than 25 yards it will shoot low (max being the height of the sights above the bore), the difference at 50 yards between the points of impact are negligible. It will shot 1/2" high a 50 yards. It's not low by 10". What are you guys doing? Zeroing the pistol at 10 yards?
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I was zeroed at 10 yards (optic) and found it 6" hi at 25.

Now that I think about it, it would be better to zero for 20 yards, and be a bit low at 10 and 15.

Thanks.
 
I would think the width of the slide at top would dictate if you would have to use a plate, ZC and Jericho are likely too narrow, I havn't measured mind to see.
I don't mind the high sight, but after shooting 1911's for 50 yrs, I have to relearn the hold as I have a habit of looking too low when I bring the gun up.
If the sight sat lower , it would be faster for me, but I am Just need to shoot it more than I do, as I shoot 38sp. way more.
One of these days , I am going to mount my scope mount on my 19 and try that .
I took a Ruger security six stainless in trade one time with a scope mounted on it , it was a 2 in barrel, shot very nice, but a bit off the wall.
but when you are in red neck country, you see lots of interesting things.
BTW, I usually O at 20yrs, and don't notice that much difference at long range, but somedays ,the way I shot off hand, it don't make any difference, when the stupid little hole are all over the place. Old age maybe??????????????
 
Is there any way to find out how deep I could safely mill the slide of an NP22, I'd love to mount a reddot on top
 
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