Milsup Snipers

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agentcq

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Well a friend was nice enough to host some photo's for me.

K43 ac45 with original mount and ddx scope

M1D Winchester 1943 production converted in the early 1950's for Korea with an M82 scope

Mosin Nagant 1943 Ishevesk PU Sniper

Tula SVT 1942 production Sniper

AR K98 ZF41 Sniper

FG42 I (SSD) with original ddx "L" marked scope.

Still working on bcd LSR and ce SSR

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djmay71 said:
Are those OE scope bases?
Click to expand...

K43 (Original Mount/Scope)
M1D (Original Mount/Scope)
ZF41 (Original Mount/Scope)
Mosin (Original Mount/Scope)
SVT (Repro Mount/Scope) - Need to upgrade
FG42 (Original Scope "L" marked/Repro Mount)

I doubt I will ever find an original FG42 mount and even if I was so lucky, I think I would rather use that money to go hunting.

I can upgrade the SVT, but for $2000 (cost of an original mount/scope) on an already refurb'd rifle, I don't know if I can justify it. I will probably settle for an original scope ($400-600) and repro mount.

My bcd4 LSR had an original bek scope, but I need an original mount.
My ce SSR has half an original mount, I still need the top half and an original scope. This is the reason I never pictured them.
I also plan to scope out my Mkb42(H) with an original scope/repro mount.
 
Anyone come across the proper procedure to mechanically zero the ZF4 and it's mount to the rifle? So the Ø windage is actually Ø and the distance scale is correct all with the post being well centered for use at full distance range?
 
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This was done at the factory, or by a Waffen Meister, so I am not familiar with a "true" field method, but I can explain how to do it.

1. Remove the top cap (often lost or missing).
2. Then use a screw driver to remove 3x screws from the L/R cap and 3x screws from the U/D cap. The protective caps will simply fall out (Do not lose these pieces or tiny screws. When I did this, a happy bystander came by and accidently knocked over my GunSmithing screw driver set, knocking my screws into the grass. I was not happy, but I did recover them).
3. Then use a laser sight or the bore to zero in on at the 25 yard or 50 metre yard target (your choice). You do this with a screw driver and you can move the reticle in all directions.
4. Target in at the 100 yards once you are are comfortably on paper.
5. Replace the two caps and screws and then replace the protective cover.
6. You should be good to go!

Do not over adjust, you can damage the springs inside and you can lose your zero.
 
That's the problem,
"Not over adjusting", which means the scope and mount may have to be shimmed or filed to center it mechanically, before adjustments are used up.
That's the "official" procedure I hope to find.
 
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