milsurps and reloading

Handloading

I've been handloading for over 25 years and currently load for about a dozen calibers. Best way to learn is to have a buddy sit down with you, its way easier than trying to read up on the subject. Something extra satisfying about target shooting or hunting big game with loads you created.
Geoff
 
I just love it when some clown doesn't pick up his brass! The cartridge case is the most expensive part.
I won't bother with 9mm, but most other common stuff is fair game for my range bag. If I can't use it, I know folks who can.;)
 
One problem with reloading is it can make one a first class Brass scrounger.
Click to expand...

I am a first class brass whore. I usually make sure I'm the only one at the range when I check the trash barrels :)
(well at least past the top !)
 
Biggest thing with loading the old .303 is to make sure that your cases are not overlength. There are more .303 problems coming from overlength cases than, I think, from all other sources combined.

As far as semi-autos are concerned, they also are more susceptible to case-length problems. If you are loading for a semi-auto, chop your brass a few thou short, just to make sure.

Not that other firearnms do not have case-length problems: they do. It's just a little more pronounced with semi-autos (due to action opening before pressure has fallen to zero) and with .303s (most of them have spongy Lee actions). But you can get a prime 8mm Mauser to shoot like it was drunk for the same reason.

Just a word to the wise. (from a wise-ass, some would say!)
 
I hate to admit it but I have never thought about my .303's case length...Hmmm I have some brass I have used over 8 times, this might explain some accuracy issues I was having.
 
Trim length of the .303 casing should be 2.212"; factory max was 2.222", which is stamped on most rifles.

If the case is too long, the case mouth will pinch up in the leade of the rifle, giving you a pressure spike before the bullet heads downrange. You get uneven pressures, uneven velocities, poor accuracy....... and your cases start separating. Keep your brass trimmed, neck-size only if you can get away with it, keep your loads a little on the mild side, and you will be surprised just how long your .303 brass WILL last.

Have fun!
 
Just to reiterate some of the previous posts, it is very common with my Lee case trimming equipment to have to shave lots of brass from the .303 cases that I pick up off the range. I currently full-length resize any brass that I purchase or come across at the range, then separate the cases based upon the rifle that I've fired them from and have used my Lee Loader to only neck size the brass (of course a Collet Die would do the same and slightly faster).

I entered into reloading a year ago and have thus far loaded both cast and jacketed bullets for a variety of calibres.

Thus far I've fired off my milsurps with reloaded .303, 7.5x55, 8x56R, and 8x57JS. I have had some decent success with my .22 Hornet reloads as well.

I still have to try out my 6.5x55 and .308 reloads, time permitting, and have loaded up 9.3x57 and 9.3x62 for Swedish Mausers that I've purchased from Tradeex.

While the number of calibres, experimenting with different powders and the purchasing of lead casting equipment might have lead to a high cost per shot based upon my expenditures thusfar, over the longer term this looks to be the only way to feasably shoot all of these rifles. I am very glad that my entrance into reloading has corresponded with the availability of 9.3x57 and 9.3x62 rifles. Nevertheless, I would also recommend it to the person shooting only a few different calibres, and would think that such a shooter will be better able to focus on producing the best loads for each of his guns.

Cheers,

Frank
 
If you are picking up brass someone left behind, inspect it carefully. You have no way of knowing about the rifle it was fired in, or if it was abandonned for a reason. Check .303 pickup brass very carefully. There are a lot of rather loose Lee Enfields out there.
 
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