Hey guys, I have a question some of you may have an opinion on. I have a Sako Hunter 308 and a brand new AIAW 308 which I havent fired yet. I have approx 100 Nosler 308 brass which have been fired a few times from the Sako, and now I'm going to start developing a load for the AI. I'm looking for ultra accuracy from the AI, and I know from firing my Sako TRG 338 that it seems to be more accurate the 2nd firing on the brass (from new). I'm wondering if there is any benefit to seperating the brass for the Sako and AI for accuracy concerns? Any opinions are much appreciated. Oh, and if any one else has a magic load developed for there AI 308 24" barrel, please feel free to share. This will give me a head start on load development. Thanks guys.
Mixing brass between two 308's
- Thread starter datatools
- Start date
Full sizeing brings it back to factory speck so it should work.
The reason you find more accuracy after the first fire on brass is because it is now expanded to fit your chamber. As long as you neck size and use the brass in the same gun you will get best results. after a few the brass will be tight and than it is time to full size again.
What is the twist in the new 24" barrel ?
The reason you find more accuracy after the first fire on brass is because it is now expanded to fit your chamber. As long as you neck size and use the brass in the same gun you will get best results. after a few the brass will be tight and than it is time to full size again.
What is the twist in the new 24" barrel ?
he just necksized them, the body size - his chamber parameters....yours is smaller, so his ammo will not chamber in yours....
if you do 2 custom builds in one caliber, you can cut both with the same reamer and just necksize for both rifles later...
as per main topic - just use 50 for one and 50 for another rifle....do necksizing and that will be OK
yes it actually does. i believe it has to do with more constant pressure. I find i test loads more than not and its not the is all be all but I always have tighter groups with neck sized brass. as well,,, its easier so why not 
If I was you i would start with the 178gn Amax.
If I was you i would start with the 178gn Amax.
So do you know the person that did the reloading?Or are you making an assumption?
If you are only making an assumption, it is just as likely that the Olansky's gun has a shorter throat, and the bullets are jamming in the lands preventing the bolt from closing fully.
Then again, if the gun that the brass was originally fired in had a long chamber, and Olansky's gun has a short chamber, the die may not be pushing the shoulder back far enough.This isn't common, but I have seen this situation a few times when people picked up once fired brass at the range to use in their rifles.I have seen people go to the extreme of grinding the shellholder to allow the die to push the should back more, but I would not ruin a shell holder to salvage some once fired brass.
ipscgraz
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
To the OP
Why not just get a couple of hundred rounds of 308 brass, normally available at any range floor for free, and keep'em separate?
If you load you probably have a couple off plastic ammo boxes; get two different colours and then you don't have to worry about it, and your Sako's brass can be neck sized & fit that gun well.
Why not just get a couple of hundred rounds of 308 brass, normally available at any range floor for free, and keep'em separate?
If you load you probably have a couple off plastic ammo boxes; get two different colours and then you don't have to worry about it, and your Sako's brass can be neck sized & fit that gun well.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I load for a number of different .30/06 rifles, and the problem I encounter is that there is one chamber cut to minimum dimensions. Thus my .30/06 loads are full length resized, and if a rifle comes along with an exceptionally tight chamber, I'll run the loaded rounds through a Redding body die to bump the shoulder back a tad more for that particular rifle.
If ultimate accuracy is your goal, I would purchase the best brass you can find, and tweak it for each specific rifle. Once loaded I would keep the fired brass and loads for each rifle separate. While it is possible, the load that produces the best accuracy in one rifle will in the other, it defies the laws of probability; refer to the statues of Mr Murphy. Now whether or not a given loads produces sufficient practical accuracy in both rifles is another question, and you have to decide what it is you are prepared to live with.
If ultimate accuracy is your goal, I would purchase the best brass you can find, and tweak it for each specific rifle. Once loaded I would keep the fired brass and loads for each rifle separate. While it is possible, the load that produces the best accuracy in one rifle will in the other, it defies the laws of probability; refer to the statues of Mr Murphy. Now whether or not a given loads produces sufficient practical accuracy in both rifles is another question, and you have to decide what it is you are prepared to live with.
you have NO IDEA of HOW MANY times that brass has been fired, or WHAT RIFLE it came from- that's WHY it's BEST to leave it on the floor- I'VE HAD ONE HEAD SEPARATION FROM RANGE BRASS and i don't want any more- that's why not- if it comes from something like a 305 or m14, you ONLY GET 4 RELOADS MAX anyway, and the brass LOOKS perfectly viable- it's even worse if it's been through somethng like an m1919a4 or 60 or something- i got a split stock, and the mag went to pieces with my head separation, and the bolt locked in the forward position- it took a LOT of effort to knock it open- i wouldn't wish that on anybody else- after that, i threw out all the brass with that headstamp and got all new, and i don't pick up any more- when i lose a case, i suffer through it until there's just a few left, then i thow those and get new
I agree. We spend thousands on rifles/scopes/gear etc... why pickup mixed brass off the floor. Even the cheap Winchester brass only costs a few bucks
I've decided to seperate the brass for each rifle, seems like the most logical solution to achieve optimal accuracy. Thanks fellas! Oh, and does any one have any good advice on a starting load (bullet weight, powder).
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I load for four differen 308's for myself, and several for other people.
I keep the brass for each rifle separate, be it full length sized or not.
Cat
I keep the brass for each rifle separate, be it full length sized or not.
Cat
Maybe I'm particularly anal, but not only do I keep brass seperate by rifle, but I keep it seperate by how many time its been fired and what the most recent sizing (neck vs FL) was. Margarine tubs with little notes in with the brass. When I make a set of ammunition, that data goes in the log along with charge, bullet, etc.
ipscgraz
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You can normally tell by the primer if it is once fired. If you shine a flashlight or inspection light into the mouth of the empty case you can see if there is any carbon buildup from repeated firings.
I have never had any problems from range brass, but I do make an effort to know what I have picked up...
For what it's worth most of the surp 7.62 brass has been fired in full autos so the brass on the range floor is probably in better shape.
