Mixing brass: yay or nay?
- Thread starter christos808
- Start date
I'm not an expert, but this is my understanding:
It's not what you use it for or at which distance it's shot at. Brass gets metal fatigue like any other metal: the more a case is shot, resized, belled and crimped, the more its mouth hardens and looses the elasticity it needs to seal the chamber properly at firing. Eventually you'll notice cracks at the case mouth and even in 9mm you might notice a shiny ring begin to appear around the case head near the extractor groove. The primer pocket can also be slightly distended and prevent proper seating of the primer. Those signs mean the case has reached the end of its useful life and must be discarded.
Rifle brass can often be annealed to mitigate the hardening around the mouth and make it useable for more reloading cycles (I read from 4-5 without annealing to 10-12 with annealing). For pistol brass, I can't find anyone that anneal it: the cases are so short that there might be a serious danger of softening the entire case including the head and causing all sorts of problems.
The trouble with picking up range brass is that as a rule, you don't know how often it's been used or abused already (unless you're lucky enough to witness the shooter loading from new boxes of commercial ammo). Since your brass is already mixed, it's too late for you now: you'll just have to inspect the brass closely after cleaning it and before you resize it, and discard on the spot anything that shows sign of excessive wear.
- Location
- West Quebec
Should not be a problem in 9MM or newer better supported 40's
46???
Oh God, my head hurts just trying to comprehend that!
You're a better man than I, Gunga Din.
notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- The city that rhymes with fun
Let's just say it doesn't happen overnight.... It takes a couple decades to accumulate that kind of excess!
I only reload for pistols and it's all mixed head stamps.
If I was a bullseye or precision rifle shooter however, I would be sorting.
Basically I would say the more accuracy you require, the more pickey you should be with your brass
If I was a bullseye or precision rifle shooter however, I would be sorting.
Basically I would say the more accuracy you require, the more pickey you should be with your brass
Yup, that's me as well.
You must do it to ensure safe results as I have attached an example of two different brass manufacturers loaded with 30 grs that shows a considerable difference. This can lead to dangerous pressure variations. At the very least accuracy will vary from cartridge to cartridge and have you chasing ghosts to find that optimum setup for a firearm.
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Don't waste your time sorting the handgun cases. Practically any old mixed-headstamp, scrounged from the range brass can be used to load ammo that shoots better than you can hold.
Sorting rifle brass by headstamp is probably worthwhile for accuracy. Mixed brass for shooting out of your AR for close range plinking or drills is OK.
Sorting rifle brass by headstamp is probably worthwhile for accuracy. Mixed brass for shooting out of your AR for close range plinking or drills is OK.
The smaller the case the more internal volume will effect variations in chamber pressure.
Below Quickload charts with the same bullet and powder charge. The top chart is a Lake City 5.56 case with 30.6 grains of H2O case capacity. The bottom cart is a case with 28.0 grains of H2O capacity and over 6,000 psi difference in chamber pressure.
As you can see below 30.6 and 28.0 are at the extreme ends of case capacity with the majority of cases being close in case capacity. The main reason for sorting your brass is uniformity and accuracy. If I use mixed .223/5.56 brass at 100 yards with my AR15 carbine the groups can vary from 3 to five inches. With sorted Lake City brass the groups will be 2 inches or less, and with my bolt action Savage .223 and good quality brass with the same lot number 1/2 inch groups are the norm.
I also have brass OCD and sort and trim all my pistol brass, but the vast majority of people do not. I'm retired with nothing to do and all day to do it so I have plenty of time to be excessive compulsive.
Very informative.
nowarningshot
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I dont shoot pistol calibers, but for my rifles it depends. Some of my rifles are loaded to close to max. Others have the accuracy node lower, for those i am not as picky. Prep, inspection, and the purpose of that firearm plays into it. Some of my rifles i expect exceptional accuracy, for those the maker, number of firings, and every component comes under extreme scrutiny. Plinking cast loads for range fun, not so much.
For my rifle loading? Most certainly.
For handgun? Most certainly NOT. Life is way too short to spend on this level of detail for what will realistically be no observable difference in any way.
For handgun the differences in brass makers is going to produce variations that are lost among the shake and wobble of a handgun being shot. If you do all your shooting from a Ransom rest or take part in long distance handgun silhouette shooting then perhaps. But not many of us do that.
For handgun? Most certainly NOT. Life is way too short to spend on this level of detail for what will realistically be no observable difference in any way.
For handgun the differences in brass makers is going to produce variations that are lost among the shake and wobble of a handgun being shot. If you do all your shooting from a Ransom rest or take part in long distance handgun silhouette shooting then perhaps. But not many of us do that.
http://www.darkcanyon.net/john_wooters_reloading_safety_tips.htm
From a PRO.
Quote:
COMPONENTS
Bullets:
Be sure that they are the recommended diameter and weight. Keep bullet calibers and weights in separate and accurately marked containers.
Do not mix or interchange bullets from various manufacturers in the same reloading formula.
Don't substitute calibers, use only that which your gun is chambered for exactly, e.g., .300 Winchester Magnum is not a .300 Savage.
Primers:
Inspect for presence of anvils before seating. Store only in original manufacturers' package. Keep a minimum amount on your loading bench. Remove unused primers from your loading tool after each session and return to the original package for storage.
Keep out of reach of children.
Store in a cool dry place.
Do not store primers in bulk. Mass detonation may occur. Use only the brand of primers specified in the loading recommendations.
Cases:
Do not mix brands - case volume may be different affecting loading density and pressure.Inspect for cracks, splits, stretch marks, separations, etc. after firing and before reloading. Do not load damaged or defective cases. Do not ream or enlarge primer flash holes
Examine fired shotshells for head damage, tube splits, pinholes, and location of basewad before reloading. Discard defective cases. Discard cases that show leakage around the primer or battery cup.
Do not mix shells with high and low basewads.
Do not mix brands of cases - volumes may be different.
Powder:
Store in a cool, dry place in the original container in an approved storage cabinet. Keep container closed except when pouring.
Keep powder out of reach of children
Have only one type and speed on your bench at one time to avoid mixing types.
Keep a minimum amount of powder in the loading area.
Never mix powders.
Don't use any powder when you are unsure of its identity. do not use any powder that appears discolored or is giving off fumes.
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For the most part same with me.
I do sort Pistol, but only for the ability to see the headstamp and say IE: that was loaded with 4.2gr TG 115gr bullet just for semi's
Fed is loaded different for a revolver.
