Model 12 questions

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Ontario Hillbilly

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I recently purchased a beater winchester model 12 in 12ga.
Its beat up but solid mechanically, serial # indicates manufacture in 1952. A previous owner had cut the barrel to 26" and installed a poly choke, the parkerizing is almost completely gone from the receiver, and the stock has a chunk out of it and a few repairs.
I intend to use it as a utility shotgun, and it will likely hunt mainly pheasant, grouse, and deer. It will also be used for bear protection when I begin as a field technologist.
The current barrel length is a bit long for me, however I do not wish to be stuck with a cylinder bore, and I do like the poly choke for versatility.
I am mechanically inclined, with a background in welding and a limited amount of machining. I am thinking of lopping the barrel at 18 5/8" and re installing the poly choke. Has anyone here done something similar? I cannot afford to take it to a smith at the moment, but I do have oxy-propane torches and some silver solder, as well as tube cutters and files. If it is something best left to a gunsmith, I am contemplating shortening it for now, installing the choke later. Any thoughts?
I would also like to add a rear ghost ring sight, but I do not want to drill into the receiver of a model 12 to do this; the barrel and stock are beyond restoration but the receiver is restorable. Are there any options available to me?
Other things on my wishlist for the 12 are sling mounts (can't find any for it), a side saddle (that doesnt require drilling), and a flashlight mount.
 
Go an 870 and wreck it lol.

S&J hardware (badboybeeson) sells Velcro shell holders for the side of the gun. I plan on buying some soon for two guns as I like tht they are removable.

Not sure about poly choke. If you're going to cut it why not get tubes installed. 18" barrel will suck for swinging on a pheasant.

I carry a 28" semi through the bush for turkey hunting and sont find it a hinderance.
 
Problem is, I go miles into the bush on backcountry excursions. I want something that will go in and out of the canoe or kayak easily, can be stuffed in a backpack, and can be carried into enclosed spaces such as caves or bear dens; as a wildlife technician we do counts of bears in the winter, and it involves crawling into a den and making sure you don't wake it. I like the poly choke over tubes as well, much faster to change.
 
The Poly Choke is fixed on the barrel with threads and silver solder. Sometimes just good old lock tite. (depends who installed it) Break it free with heat, shorten the barrel and re thread then spin on the poly and lock it with solder or thread locker. It is important not to get the barrel too hot when soldering it could weaken or distort the barrel. REMEMBER don't cut the barrel so short that the Poly Choke will interfere with the take down of the gun. ( sliding the magazine assembley ahead to break down the gun).

Darryl
 
You could also have the barrel Vang-Comped (preferably without the ports) after you cut it to provide some choke. Tactical Ordnance (tacord.com) is the Canadian source for this modification.
 
I wouldn't worry about the receiver too much if you want to drill and tap it. The barrel and stock are already beyond saving. Most collectors are not going to want the receiver as a gun would no longer have matching numbers so I wouldn't worry about the restorable part of it. Also, right now beat up model 12's are a dime a dozen.
 
If I had 200 to spend, I would not hesitate to go with the vang comp. Unfortunately I went back to school and money is very scarce. I was almost thinking of just shortening it to 20" cyl bore, but that would preclude any water fowl hunting. I may attempt re installing the choke on the shortened barrel, thank you madtrapper for the the pointer about length for take-down.. I may have missed that otherwise.
 
Another thing somewhat related; I was talking to someone today who told me that if I had the gun vang-comped, I would be able to fire 3" shells.. This doesn't sound right to me, but according to the source: the relieving of the forcing cone allows the 3" shell to open without causing excess constriction. I am assuming this to be dangerously incorrect, however I understand the principle behind his thinking.
 
Ontario Hillbilly said:
Another thing somewhat related; I was talking to someone today who told me that if I had the gun vang-comped, I would be able to fire 3" shells.. This doesn't sound right to me, but according to the source: the relieving of the forcing cone allows the 3" shell to open without causing excess constriction. I am assuming this to be dangerously incorrect, however I understand the principle behind his thinking.
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It is incorrect as far as I'm concerned. Three inch magnums are highly overated unless you are hunting waterfowl.
 
Winchested said:
The ejection port probably isn't made for the length of a 3" shell.
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It isn't. It is 1/8" shorter vs a 3" duck model. The 3" model 12 is a different animal than the 2 3/4" and although to many look the same used totally different metullurgy in many parts and a overall much heavier design as a result. In fact if you read the original info from winchester when they introduced the 3" duck gun it clearly stated supplied with a heavier receiver and barrel vs the standard models as a selling feature.
The model 12 is a classic and one of the best shot guns ever made but not designed for todays loads or pressures especially 3" mags.. Leave the 2 3/4 what is and with care will serve you a life time. Be safe and pick up an old express for the 3" stuff.
 
3macs1 said:
It isn't. It is 1/8" shorter vs a 3" duck model. The 3" model 12 is a different animal than the 2 3/4" and although to many look the same used totally different metullurgy in many parts and a overall much heavier design as a result. In fact if you read the original info from winchester when they introduced the 3" duck gun it clearly stated supplied with a heavier receiver and barrel vs the standard models as a selling feature.
The model 12 is a classic and one of the best shot guns ever made but not designed for todays loads or pressures especially 3" mags.. Leave the 2 3/4 what is and with care will serve you a life time. Be safe and pick up an old express for the 3" stuff.
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By today's loads and pressures do you mean that some 2 3/4 shells would over-pressure the gun, or were you referring strictly to the 3" shells?
Im probably gonna pick up a dbl barrel for waterfowl anyway so I am happy with 2 3/4 inch shells, however I want the hottest loads I can get in them if I go for bear, or even for turkey.
 
Ontario Hillbilly said:
By today's loads and pressures do you mean that some 2 3/4 shells would over-pressure the gun, or were you referring strictly to the 3" shells?
Im probably gonna pick up a dbl barrel for waterfowl anyway so I am happy with 2 3/4 inch shells, however I want the hottest loads I can get in them if I go for bear, or even for turkey.
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My apologies I was referring to 3" .. Have not heard of anyone having problems with any 2 3/4 and even in the day they fed many with some pretty heavy lead magnums.
 
You can ream the chamber to 3.5" if you want. The gun will be a single shot because it is designed to eject a 2 3/4" shell.
If you want to mod a gun like this, use an 870 or Norinco knock off.
 
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