Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

KHTL said:
Does anyone know how I can remove the rear takedown pin and what is required to fit an aftermarket pin like a KNS or V Seven titanium pin? I am receiving my rifle soon and would like to buy some pins beforehand.
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What are you trying to gain by doing this? The upper still will not hinge forward like an AR does.
They do offer a modification to drill the lower for the detent and spring so a regular rear TD pin can be used, but they are quick to stste it is a waste of $150.00 plus the cost of whatever pin you want to use as the different pin serves no use over what come factory.
Trust me their design works just fine as it is. Drilling out the factory installed rear pin after you get the lower could cause you waaaaay more grief that you think. IF you have a fully equipped machine shop and were to make a fixture it could be done, but again to what benefit?
 
I agree with the above. I didn’t realize there system was different before I got my hands on one and had already purchased take down pins. Cheaper to return them or use them on another build. This is just a solution looking for a problem I’m my mind.
 
Ryang5177 said:
I agree with the above. I didn’t realize there system was different before I got my hands on one and had already purchased take down pins. Cheaper to return them or use them on another build. This is just a solution looking for a problem I’m my mind.
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Same thing here, just tossed the ones I bought into the spare parts bin to be used on another build another day. That seems like a lot of work for no real gain...
 
So first trip out with the sporter, second mag, third round, she locked up solid. Shot sounded funny and felt funny, tried the charging handle, mortared it, still locked up. Noticed the FA was stiff and would not move, got out the tools, knocked out the FA retainer pin and finally it let go. Seems to me like the FA caught the BCG under recoil, it did not catch at all when I racked the rifle after assembly, and I can assure you it was racked many times. Forward assist (standard Mil-spec) was chewed up on the end, pin had 2 neat dents in it right in the middle, and there was cleaned off metal at the end of the notch for the retaining pin. So I left it out, gave it a once over and ran it for a few more mags. No problems there. Anyways, I just thought I’d reach out and see if anyone else has had issues like this, is there a FA that works better? I tried the one out of a spare stag 10 upper I had (that threaded retaining pin is much easier to deal with than the roll pin) and it seemed to protrude further into the MS than the stag upper when felt at the pawl end of the bore, it took very little pressure to get the pawl to catch the bolt serrations. For now I’m knocking the pawl pin out and I’ll have a Faux’ward assist, but any info or experiences from the hive mind would be appreciated. I’d really rather not send it back! Not yet anyways.
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What’s different on the Stag FA other than the retainer? It’s the same length, width, etc as the one in the picture? The stag one looks a bit higher quality in some ways but other than that seems identical.
 
no-one special said:
What are you trying to gain by doing this? The upper still will not hinge forward like an AR does.
They do offer a modification to drill the lower for the detent and spring so a regular rear TD pin can be used, but they are quick to stste it is a waste of $150.00 plus the cost of whatever pin you want to use as the different pin serves no use over what come factory.
Trust me their design works just fine as it is. Drilling out the factory installed rear pin after you get the lower could cause you waaaaay more grief that you think. IF you have a fully equipped machine shop and were to make a fixture it could be done, but again to what benefit?
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Thanks for the insight. I wanted to mod it for the sake of blinging it out some as I have with all 6 of my AR's. Many mods don't offer any benefits and it's literally for the sake of modding only to satisfy the itch. But now that I know it won't be worth the hassle I will pass.
 
alberta tactical rifle said:
Many options for barrels, we can make a barrel any contour or length or twist you wish, we can also supply Proof or BSF CFW barrels.
For bolts JP seems to be 1 of the best but we are also seeing good success with the Brownells bolts. The JP silent captured buffer system works extremely well but the standard AR15 spring and buffer also will work. The 223 standard buffer system is all that is required.
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Tell me more - I want a minimal length (18.X") CFW barrel in 223 Wylde for my MS build so its interesting that you sell the two options I am considering (Proof & BSF)

Pros & cons of each? Price? I did read about BSF fluted barrels self destructing - is that issue cleared up?

PM me if you prefer.
 
Sniffer said:
Tell me more - I want a minimal length (18.X") CFW barrel in 223 Wylde for my MS build so its interesting that you sell the two options I am considering (Proof & BSF)

Pros & cons of each? Price? I did read about BSF fluted barrels self destructing - is that issue cleared up?

PM me if you prefer.
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That was their fluted 308 barrels blowing up.
 
no-one special said:
What are you trying to gain by doing this? The upper still will not hinge forward like an AR does.
They do offer a modification to drill the lower for the detent and spring so a regular rear TD pin can be used, but they are quick to stste it is a waste of $150.00 plus the cost of whatever pin you want to use as the different pin serves no use over what come factory.
Trust me their design works just fine as it is. Drilling out the factory installed rear pin after you get the lower could cause you waaaaay more grief that you think. IF you have a fully equipped machine shop and were to make a fixture it could be done, but again to what benefit?
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Some triggers like the Geissele National Match are a bit larger than milspec, it is impossible to install the upper onto the lower if the rear pin doesn't slide out of the way.
 
Has anyone used a HIPERTOUCH® ECLIPSE trigger ? I read they may need to be modified but I was wondering what exactly had to be done ?
 
Ended up scooping a ATRS reciever set with the forward assist yesterday from someone who cancelled at a retailer. Going basically full BCM build except the barrel which i got a 18.6 Faxon socom profile. Should be a good gun im hoping. Cant wait to compare it to my geisselle URGI
 
Sniffer said:
How is the accuracy? Does the POI change as it heats up? Is yours fluted?
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Accuracy is good so far. I’ve only brought it to 100m five or take with a red dot and have been hitting a 4x4 plate with no issue. I haven’t mounted the optic yet so I’ll properly test it when that’s on. Honestly after 100-200 rounds in 20-30 minutes I could barely feel heat from the barrel (outdoor range might help but only +5 degrees outside that day). No issue on POI for “normal” plinking.
 
jagermyster said:
Ended up scooping a ATRS reciever set with the forward assist yesterday from someone who cancelled at a retailer. Going basically full BCM build except the barrel which i got a 18.6 Faxon socom profile. Should be a good gun im hoping. Cant wait to compare it to my geisselle URGI
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That's exciting! so many people are looking for 2 run receiver atm.
 
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