Modern Sporter - Build Discussions

Almost done with my build.
F/A upper:
Faxon 20 inch gunner barrel, though I'm strongly considering having it cut down to 18.6.
Battle Arms Development, Lightweight Low Profile Titanium Gas Block
Radian Weapons, Aluminum Forward Assist
BCM 15 inches MCMR handguard
VG6 Epsilon muzzle
BCM BCG
Raptor charging handle
V7 Weapon Systems, Ultra Light AR15 Port Door
V7 dust cover titanium rod

Lower:
V7 Weapon Systems, Titanium AR15 Trigger/Hammer Pin Set
Primary Weapons Systems, Enhanced MilSpec Buffer Tube, GEN2 Ratchet Lock Endplate & Nut
Triggertech ajustable trigger
Radian ambi safety
KAC ambi mag release
JP SCSS
Magpul K2+
B5 Bravo
 
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I spoke with IBI today about the 19" barrel. Sounds like the 0.936" gas block they have needs a hand guard internal clearance of at least 1.45 inches. Anyone recommend a lower profile block that will accommodate most other hand guards? Most guards don't seem to fit that size.
 
Rayf01 said:
I spoke with IBI today about the 19" barrel. Sounds like the 0.936" gas block they have needs a hand guard internal clearance of at least 1.45 inches. Anyone recommend a lower profile block that will accommodate most other hand guards? Most guards don't seem to fit that size.
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Consider a shorter handguard for an exposed gas block look. Not a bad style in my opinion.
 
Rayf01 said:
I spoke with IBI today about the 19" barrel. Sounds like the 0.936" gas block they have needs a hand guard internal clearance of at least 1.45 inches. Anyone recommend a lower profile block that will accommodate most other hand guards? Most guards don't seem to fit that size.
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I have this barrel. Go with an F1 hyperlite, it clears it and looks decent.
 
I found a low profile 0.936 gas block by Odin Works that says it works in all of their hand guards including one that is 1.35" in diameter. I figured if I use that gas block it should work in just about any Hand guard with that diameter then as well. Like the Maple Ridge Armoury V1 M-LOK AR-15 which is 1.36".

I'm assuming anyways. Either that or I'll go with an Odin Works Hand Guard, there are some nice ones.
 
Rayf01 said:
I found a low profile 0.936 gas block by Odin Works that says it works in all of their hand guards including one that is 1.35" in diameter. I figured if I use that gas block it should work in just about any Hand guard with that diameter then as well. Like the Maple Ridge Armoury V1 M-LOK AR-15 which is 1.36".

I'm assuming anyways. Either that or I'll go with an Odin Works Hand Guard, there are some nice ones.
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I don't know much about building AR but dont you need more clearance then that? As wen you shoot the barrel flexes and bends and you don't want it hitting the handgard.
 
The F1 P7M Hyperlite has 1.55" inside diameter. When I get home I will take a pic of it on the exact IBI barrel you are discussing. Plenty of clearance with a low pro gas block.

http s://f-1firearms.com/p7m-ar-15-hyper-lite-handguard/
 
PinaKaleada said:
Is it me, or is the ejection port pivot hole too tight? After installing the metal rod, it will never come out. How do you guys remove it after installing?
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Small flat nose pliers wrapped in electrical tape worked for me. I was able to get enough of the pin in the gap beside the spring in the middle of the door to get a good hold.
 
PinaKaleada said:
Is it me, or is the ejection port pivot hole too tight? After installing the metal rod, it will never come out. How do you guys remove it after installing?
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Inertia guys... Inertia!

Step 1: On a bench with a good mat on it.
Step 2: Simply take the upper, and apply force in a 90 degree vertical direction.
Step 3: The front face of the receiver will impact your good mat (ie, carpet, rubber, etc.).
Step 4: And the pin will move forward a little bit.

Repeat steps 1 through 4, between 1-5 times and the end of the pin will come out to where you can easily grab it.
 
ATRS Shaun said:
Inertia guys... Inertia!

Step 1: On a bench with a good mat on it.
Step 2: Simply take the upper, and apply force in a 90 degree vertical direction.
Step 3: The front face of the receiver will impact your good mat (ie, carpet, rubber, etc.).
Step 4: And the pin will move forward a little bit.

Repeat steps 1 through 4, between 1-5 times and the end of the pin will come out to where you can easily grab it.
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While installing my first one, I had to hammer the pin in the last 1-2mm. I doubt it would come out that easily. My second one was easy fit.
 
ATRS Shaun said:
Inertia guys... Inertia!

Step 1: On a bench with a good mat on it.
Step 2: Simply take the upper, and apply force in a 90 degree vertical direction.
Step 3: The front face of the receiver will impact your good mat (ie, carpet, rubber, etc.).
Step 4: And the pin will move forward a little bit.

Repeat steps 1 through 4, between 1-5 times and the end of the pin will come out to where you can easily grab it.
Click to expand...

For something that is advertised as accepting mil spec parts, having to slam the interaction point where explosions takes place and where every thou of tolerance counts is concerning. Is ATRS considering replacing peoples' uppers that have this kind of defect?
 
PinaKaleada said:
While installing my first one, I had to hammer the pin in the last 1-2mm. I doubt it would come out that easily. My second one was easy fit.
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Shaun, any plans to refine the dust cover area to make it more "mil spec"?

This seems to be a point of contention for MANY people to the point I've seen dozens of comments about it. If installing a standard dust cover, and the fitment of the dust cover port is not adequate (there is some variance between manufacturers) the process of removing the pin is a huge pain and could result in damaging the upper receiver.

I don't think advising people to purchase a non-standard, specialty Strike Industries dust cover is a good solution. This rifle was billed as using all mil spec parts, and should work appropriately with them at this price point.
 
B34R said:
For something that is advertised as accepting mil spec parts, having to slam the interaction point where explosions takes place and where every thou of tolerance counts is concerning. Is ATRS considering replacing peoples' uppers that have this kind of defect?
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.... I'm really hoping that this is a joke... If it's not, please learn of the topic before attempting to cause hysteria.
If you are truly convinced that 7075 T6 aluminum, is what is containing an explosion... That is far from the case.
The chamber, and barrel extension do that job. Those are all steel, always.

Every thou of tolerance, makes me think you're referring to headspace, which is also, between the barrel and the barrel extension, and not in fact parts being discussed here.

So to answer your question with a broad answer, any concerns regarding parts fitment or suspicion of a "defect" should be emailed to info@albertatacticalrifle.com.

This as it is described, does not sound like a defect to me, however all I'm seeing is text. Take that for what it's worth.
 
takeyerswing said:
Shaun, any plans to refine the dust cover area to make it more "mil spec"?

This seems to be a point of contention for MANY people to the point I've seen dozens of comments about it. If installing a standard dust cover, and the fitment of the dust cover port is not adequate (there is some variance between manufacturers) the process of removing the pin is a huge pain and could result in damaging the upper receiver.

I don't think advising people to purchase a non-standard, specialty Strike Industries dust cover is a good solution. This rifle was billed as using all mil spec parts, and should work appropriately with them at this price point.
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Improper removal of the pin could result in damaging the upper receiver. We have been using this system for literally twelve years on our rifle models.

So no.
 
ATRS Shaun said:
Improper removal of the pin could result in damaging the upper receiver. We have been using this system for literally twelve years on our rifle models.

So no.
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It makes me sick the kind of entitled, mechanically deficient, cry babies you guys put up with. Keep up the quality machining gents.
 
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