Modern Sporter builds Q&A

You don't need an adjustable gas block, but it's a good idea if you get a low mass carrier or like to screw around with everything.
 
You don't need an adjustable gas block, but it's a good idea if you get a low mass carrier or like to screw around with everything.

+1 You can virtually eliminate recoil if tuned properly with a specific load. Low mass bolt + adjustable gas block + good comp + rifle lengh gas = Sweetness. We are talking performance and speed (competition) where you want to put multiple rounds on targets fast... I' not getting into the manly 'you dont need to eliminate recoil on a puny .223...'
Discussion
 
I had to put an adj. Gas block on my SLR with a 18.6 MRA rifle length .223 wylde barrel and Brownells light weight BCG. With the standard gas block the bolt would slam the buffer so hard that it started to flare out the area where the rubber bumper went into the buffer. (Mind you it was a cheapo buffer, but still). With the adj gas block the rifle cycles smooth as butter.
 
Although an adjustable gas block is not a requirement it is usefull when running ultra low mass systems or hot ammunition. I like using them in combination with a lightweight buffer and carrier.

When running full mass/mil spec builds I don't bother.
 
Low mass buffers and bolt carriers are intended to reduce felt recoil by reducing the reciprocating mass and it does work. A low mass “lightened” buffer tube is just lighter than the standard it does not effect function at all. Low mass parts help with split times in competition since there is less felt recoil.
 
Low mass buffers and bolt carriers are intended to reduce felt recoil by reducing the reciprocating mass and it does work. A low mass “lightened” buffer tube is just lighter than the standard it does not effect function at all. Low mass parts help with split times in competition since there is less felt recoil.
Wouldn't this make the rifle a little more sensitive to lack of cleaning? For real operators?
 
The MS I'm building is for lightweight hunting. So a lightweight BCG is a must, as well as NO buffer weights.
Just went to range with new parts for MS on a regular AR.
SLR rifleworks Ti mini comp, Rifle length gas, non adjustable SLR Ti GB, Brownells lightweight bcg, weights taken out of JP SCS with white spring(80%), zero malfunctions, ejection 1-2ish oclock.
Regular spring was 3 oclock every time.
Tried it all with a regular buffer with weighs taken out, and regular spring, 3 oclock
I'm ordering a aluminum BCG to save another 3.5 oz, probably will need the AGB at that point
 
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The MS I'm building is for lightweight hunting. So a lightweight BCG is a must, as well as NO buffer weights.
Just went to range with new parts for MS on a regular AR.
SLR rifleworks mini comp, Rifle length gas, non adjustable GB, Brownells lightweight bcg, weights taken out of JP SCS with white spring(80%), zero malfunctions, ejection 1-2ish oclock.
Regular spring was 3 oclock every time.
Tried it all with a regular buffer with weighs taken out, and regular spring, 3 oclock
I'm ordering a aluminum BCG to save another 3.5 oz, probably will need the AGB at that point

So you just dumped the weights off your scs? I’ve been tempted to make a delrin spacers and take out 2 of the 3 weights.
 
Yup, just take them all out! No problems at all, but what a ##### to take that ring off. JP did say something negative about doing this though..... cant find it now, I might even try the next heavier spring(yellow), seemed to me the biggest dif in recoil impulse was buffer spring weight first then brake second. I'm really thinking an AGB is not needed for rifle length gas, even with lightweight parts

My range test was 500 rds , again with zero malfunctions.
The reason for the weight wiggle was for the double bounce/hit on bolt close for full auto, no? What am i missing here. What are the dangers with no weight bounce/double hit in semi?
 
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Use an aluminum rod cut to the size of the weights, light BCG and an adjustable gas block gives you a very light operating MS.
 
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If you use this in place of the fixed rear pin, then you can use whatever trigger you'd like, and simply pull the pin out to take it down. We're researching potential, and optional modifications's that can be done to the rear takedown pin/crossbar but frankly haven't had the time to come up for air, or eat last Thursdays breakfast yet, let alone R&D into mods. There have been a number of guys asking if they could somehow have their front and rear takedown pins matching...

What kind of pin is that? Will that allow you to use the hipefire triggers without modification
 
Hi Shaun, I have a question about my MS you put together, I've sent two emails and a message on CGN over three weeks with no response. I didn't want to call in since you're busy with receivers.

What's the best way to go about receiiving an answer to my question? Thanks!
 
Hi Shaun, I have a question about my MS you put together, I've sent two emails and a message on CGN over three weeks with no response. I didn't want to call in since you're busy with receivers.

What's the best way to go about receiiving an answer to my question? Thanks!

We don't really do messages on CGN, it's a terrible way to communicate. And I don't know who you are to search for emails... :-/ Best way to go about receiving an answer to your question is for me to have the question lol. Email info@albertatacticalrifle.com again, and i'll watch for it here.
 
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