Modifying a breaching choke - Complete

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Kratos

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So I have a question about modifying chokes, in my case a breaching choke. I bought a Sulun SS-211 (compact over/under) and thought I would add breaching chokes to give it a different look. I found some breaching chokes that would fit but when I went to install them they’re too thick and bind on each other when the second one is being inserted. My question is can they be turned down on a lathe, as they have teeth. And if they can be modified this way does anyone know a gunsmith that can provide that service as well as finishing them in Cerakote?

Picture of chokes
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Update: The barrels and chokes came back and it may not be very practical but I think it looks pretty cool! I was going to try and make the furniture synthetic but the wood look for this shotgun has grown on me. As jacotsmith said, has a very road warrior / post apocalypse appearance. ATRS was able to do the machining and Cerakote, and we all know the quality that comes out of their shop.

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regulate34 said:
How much needs to come off? Just the knurled part?
A machine shop would be able to do that sooner easy
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I’m thinking 15-20 thou each. It’s the knurled part that rubs but I haven’t measured yet for exact amounts. With wanting Cerakote I was thinking most machine shops aren’t setup for that too.
 
jacotsmith said:
Be sure to post a pic if you get them fitted, that sounds like some serious Road Warrior looking business.
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That’s the look I’m kinda going for haha, I’m looking into modding some Magpul kit onto it, I’d have to make sure it’s 26” OAL at that point though. I’ll be sure to put pictures up once it starts coming together.
 
Kratos said:
I’m thinking 15-20 thou each. It’s the knurled part that rubs but I haven’t measured yet for exact amounts. With wanting Cerakote I was thinking most machine shops aren’t setup for that too.
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That’s ver simple machine work. Any smith with a lathe should be able to do it.
Finding one that offers cerakote should be too hard.
 
Just have them turned to same max outside diameter as original chokes. May only take a portion of the knurled part off and have them re knurl the area they machine. Might be able to spry paint them with flat black engine paint or ship to someone for ceracoat after machining.
 
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Are you ever going to fire breaching charges through them?

If not, you could simply grind a groove on the lower barrel choke, where it indexes when fully tightened, up on the top, to clear the upper choke. Could be done with a bench grinder and a little thinking as to how to make a sliding jig to hold the lower choke so you can grind only the top surface.

If you really wanted to get all perfectionist, you could find a dresser and dress the grindstone to a radius that matches the diameter of the upper choke, and have at it.

It would require that you install and remove the chokes in a specific order, top first, then bottom. But nothing says you cannot groove out the top choke and leave the bottom one alone.
 
trevj said:
Are you ever going to fire breaching charges through them?

If not, you could simply grind a groove on the lower barrel choke, where it indexes when fully tightened, up on the top, to clear the upper choke. Could be done with a bench grinder and a little thinking as to how to make a sliding jig to hold the lower choke so you can grind only the top surface.

If you really wanted to get all perfectionist, you could find a dresser and dress the grindstone to a radius that matches the diameter of the upper choke, and have at it.

It would require that you install and remove the chokes in a specific order, top first, then bottom. But nothing says you cannot groove out the top choke and leave the bottom one alone.
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I’ll probably never fire breachers through them, not even sure if we can have those lol. But I thought of your idea, the only thing is I don’t feel I’d like a flat spot on one of the chokes. No one would know but me I’m sure but I don’t like the idea of a bubba’d choke.
 
Are they hardened? Check with a file. If they are hardened, grinding would be the method of choice.
 
Kratos said:
I’ll probably never fire breachers through them, not even sure if we can have those lol. But I thought of your idea, the only thing is I don’t feel I’d like a flat spot on one of the chokes. No one would know but me I’m sure but I don’t like the idea of a bubba’d choke.
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But you like the idea of TWO bubba'd chokes better? Which is what you get doing the turn-down in a lathe.

If it's all cosmetic, I would suggest either rigging yourself up a jig to do it on a grinder, with a wheel dressed to a rounded contour, or use a belt sander with a small contact wheel, to put a groove in the top of the lower choke. Once you have enough clearance to install the upper one, if you did it right, you won't really be able to see the change unless you are staring at it from the muzzle end.

Honestly, I can come up with five or more ways to do this with pretty basic stuff, including using a jig and a mounted Angle Grinder, a Belt/Disk sander, a Dynafile, bench grinder, lathe, or milling machine, depending on what tools you have and what you are willing to put in to it for effort.

Do you have any power tools, or access to them? A bench to work on, in a garage?
 
DANS40X said:
To each their own.....most should seek a professional.
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Naw, use whatever works bro. Sometimes there’s faster ways to remove meat quicker and then touch it with the cutting tool.

Sometimes you gotta chuck a bolt in a drill press and file it to a smaller diameter and rethread it to some oddball size, I’ve made 4mm grip screws for a Turkish 1911 this way. Can’t always get it at the store and my old lathe had crapped the bed.
 
I appreciate all the input on making this a DIY job, and I have the tools to grind away at these. I don’t think I’ll be taking that route, if I don’t like the results I can still sell the chokes if I haven’t chewed them up. I’d also just prefer they be as uniform as possible (personal preference) and professionally finished in Cerakote or similar. If putting these in a lathe is a bad idea due to the holes and teeth ruining the tooling, I’ll have to consider other options.
 
Kratos said:
I appreciate all the input on making this a DIY job, and I have the tools to grind away at these. I don’t think I’ll be taking that route, if I don’t like the results I can still sell the chokes if I haven’t chewed them up. I’d also just prefer they be as uniform as possible (personal preference) and professionally finished in Cerakote or similar. If putting these in a lathe is a bad idea due to the holes and teeth ruining the tooling, I’ll have to consider other options.
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It’s not, a lathe would remove the knurling easily with the right cutting tool.
 
Muzzle brakes are routinely turned to match the diameter of the barrel, without issue, notwithstanding the presence of holes, ports or slots.
 
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