Hello from South of the border, mercan,needs help!! For the life of me, I can't remove bolt from my rifle. New to me, good price, maybe now I know why, impulse purchase!! So when I move trigger forward the rear of the bolt lifts up!! But the bolt won't come out. Tried to attack it from the bottom but with bolt in place can't get to rear tang screw. Also the bolt doesn't #### when cycled. Thanks in advance for any help. This is a great site.!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
Moisin nagant, help
- Thread starter dugin
- Start date
Lou, that was the first thing I tried, no come out.hitting a solid obstruction ? Like maybe trigger sear?that's why I thought I had to push forward! Total newb when it comes to MNs it's a 1923 Russian rifle as far as I can tell, I can work the bolt but it doesn't seem to ####. If it is cocking the trigger won't release fireingpin/ striker. The bolt knob is covering rear tang screw. When I hold the bolt back and pull trigger it leavers the bolt forward. Normally does the fp/,striker cover the rear tang screw??? Please HELP
Cottage Hill Bill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Pensacola, FL USA
See if the safety is on. Pull back on the cocking piece and turn.
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If all else fails, dis-assemble the bolt inside the receiver by unscrewing (clockwise) the firing pin. Be careful because the cocking knob is under spring tension. This will allow you to remove the parts and identify what is actually wrong.
Marc, thanks, so far the pin refuses to turn (clockwise) it is loose , turns back and forth but refuses to budge,will cut deeper slot later today and apply brute force, it's a mismatched bolt anyway aren't most of them mismatched? Are replacement parts hard to comeby? My screw driver set has interchangeable bits and first attempt shattered the bit? I will have to take that up with manufacturer!!! Anyway THANKS for your help it is much appreciated!!!���� Doug
Hello again! What can you tell me about this rifle. Round portion of receiver has star, bunch of Russian letters and such, has PC ? CP above date of 1923 5 digit ser.# Octagon receiver marked "T" i believe, 6 digit mag. trigger guard,and 6digit bolt, stock may have been refinished sometime in the past, the finger grooves are rounded off or is this normal. Has shellac/varnish finish. Pretty much a fun of the mill 91/30?? Oh the rifelings look strong but dirty from what I can see with the bolt still installed.Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug
I handled a Polish M44 that I could not get the bolt out of.
Sat there messing trying to get the bolt out and no luck. Had other guys try - no luck
Eventually I took a good look down the barrel and saw that it had been dewatted and pinned near the chamber. The way it had been done also made the bolt impossible to remove.
There were no markings on it to denote being dewatted.
Maybe not your prob but try taking a close look down the barrel and take a look up the mag to see if you can see any funny business.
Sat there messing trying to get the bolt out and no luck. Had other guys try - no luck
Eventually I took a good look down the barrel and saw that it had been dewatted and pinned near the chamber. The way it had been done also made the bolt impossible to remove.
There were no markings on it to denote being dewatted.
Maybe not your prob but try taking a close look down the barrel and take a look up the mag to see if you can see any funny business.
Cmic, thanks for the reply. No dewat welds on this one!! Can see the bolt when looking down barrel. Opened bottom gate, can't see any problem there either. The trigger is not engaged with the bolt as it should be as best I can figure, trigger just swings back and forth, set gun down on its butt and trigger sets almost against the trigger guard, (in the fired position).
OK all you M.N. Gurus!!! I am at the point of taking some measurements and cutting the bolt in two in the middle of the gap right behind the locking shoulder.!!!then I can at least get the action out of the stock, so then I should be able to remove the trigger, RIGHT??? And get the front half of the bolt out, chamfer the cut corners and a turned copper pin to line up the two pcs. And take to my friend who is a magician at welding. He will tack weld 3 or 4 places remove copper (or maybe brass) alignment pin and slowly finish welding it . A replacement FP and I'm good to go, correct??? Did I miss anything? I know that he will keep the bolt straight, and a little error in length shouldn't matter should it??Respectfully awaiting your input/ thoughts , Doug
HalifaxArmyNavyStore
Expired Business Member
- Location
- Halifax, NS
We encountered a similar issue with a used MN 91/30. Take the rifle out of the stock (one screw at the back of the tang, only accessible when rifle is uncocked, and another screw at the front of the trigger guard).
Once action is out of the stock, drift out the trigger pin, unscrew the sear, now there should be nothing to retain the bolt in the action.
Once action is out of the stock, drift out the trigger pin, unscrew the sear, now there should be nothing to retain the bolt in the action.
And another question! Shouldn't i be able to see the tip of the f.p. at the bolt face?? Cause there is nothing there??? There is a primer ring stain but no appreciable wear as far as I can tell so I'm hoping the bore will clean up real nice and be a good shooter. Fellas on here talk about how good these old warhorses shoot,so I hope to find out. Thanks dugin
