Mold 6 cav ctl312-160-2r

kjohn

kjohn

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Anybody have one of these? I use a boatload of the 155-160 cast for plinking in .308/30-06/.303 etc. I use LEE molds exclusively, so no need for lectures on how poor LEE stuff is. Just wondering if anyone has tried this one in 6 cavity.

Thanks in advance for any helpful info! :)

**edit: Has anyone ordered direct from LEE to Canada? Do they use USPS?
 
Yesterday, I had my first adventure with a 6 cavity mould - it was an aluminum .460" 435 grain. Probably because of the size of the cavities, I found it got hotter faster than I was used to, and I also got way more variation in weight than I expected - from 428 to 445 grains. So, I'd say to expect that it gets hotter, quicker, and then maybe the extra length of the mould, its more tricky handling / holding in position for "perfect" casting into each of the six cavities. Hope that helps.
 
I use 2 6 pack molds from Lee. 452 200 gr SWC and 452 230 gr RN. Both work great but I found I needed to upgrade my pot to a 20 lb capacity because they eat the lead up so fast. I also learned they work better when preheated over a cheap electric stove element from factory direct or your local Walmart. Before I got the stove I used my comments camp stove to preheat them. Warm them up with the sprue facing down. The mold is more evenly heated and I found they work flawlessly that way.
 
Yes, they are a bit tricky to use. I pour 6 cavity pistol, and have seemed to find the path to good bullets. If I can pour decent bullets with a six cavity - anybody can! :p

It takes a bit of rhythm as well as stop and start, plus just the right amount of stop time over each cavity.
 
kjohn said:
**edit: Has anyone ordered direct from LEE to Canada? Do they use USPS?
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Not from Lee, but from Titan reloading which is across the street. Shipped without issue USPS.

You could contact Western Metal and see if they have what you want in stock. They have very fast turnaround. I ordered on Saturday and it was delivered Wednesday.
 
Just how big boolits those molds make?312 or 311?Is Lee making 6 bangers with pointy nose version or small FP? I Got new 2 cav mold with FP and it makes .311 boolits with WW alloy.It doesn't fly nearly as good as older version,even in 308 and 7.5 Swiss.
 
Western Metal it will be. I sent a message with a couple of questions later one evening, and POOF!, within a few minutes, I had my answer!
 
I don't think the 6 cavity molds are any better or worse than the 2 cavity molds when it comes to bullet quality. I have broke a couple of the 6-cavity sprue breaker handles on big, hard bullets.
 
I have the non tumble lube version C312-155-2R in six cavity and it works fantastic. Drops .313-314 with straight clip on wheel weight lead. Sized to .311 with home made aluminum checks and they shoot great in all of my .308 and 30-06 rifles. Feed and function great in semi autos. If I want to run them faster than about 2100fps I powder coat them. Then I can run them up around 2350-2400 before accuracy starts to go out the window. I also have a Lee 6 cavity copy of the Lyman 311041 and it casts beautifully as well. Once you get the rhythm down to keep the mold temp just right they drop a lot of bullets fast. They are a little fragile, or delicate as compared to an NOE aluminum mold though. The aluminum for the mold blocks is quite soft and the alignment pins can push in with normal use. It's too bad they don't make the mold blocks as hard as the sprue plates.
 
sawzall said:
I have the non tumble lube version C312-155-2R in six cavity and it works fantastic. Drops .313-314 with straight clip on wheel weight lead. Sized to .311 with home made aluminum checks and they shoot great in all of my .308 and 30-06 rifles. Feed and function great in semi autos. If I want to run them faster than about 2100fps I powder coat them. Then I can run them up around 2350-2400 before accuracy starts to go out the window. I also have a Lee 6 cavity copy of the Lyman 311041 and it casts beautifully as well. Once you get the rhythm down to keep the mold temp just right they drop a lot of bullets fast. They are a little fragile, or delicate as compared to an NOE aluminum mold though. The aluminum for the mold blocks is quite soft and the alignment pins can push in with normal use. It's too bad they don't make the mold blocks as hard as the sprue plates.
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That Lyman 311041 mold you use is that the one sold on ebay for a little under $80.00 US? its been on my watch list for a while. I have been using a RCBS 30-180-FN with good success but its just a double. I does feed good in my M1.
 
sawzall said:
...Once you get the rhythm down to keep the mold temp just right they drop a lot of bullets fast. They are a little fragile, or delicate as compared to an NOE aluminum mold though. The aluminum for the mold blocks is quite soft and the alignment pins can push in with normal use. It's too bad they don't make the mold blocks as hard as the sprue plates.
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X2. The aluminum is not high grade and tends to score very easily. need to keep this mold clean or you will scratch the crap out of the top and quickly.

Before you use any mold and especially any LEE mold: polish the sprue plate with fine steel wool, especially the bottom at the outside edges and the fill hole. Don't use steel wool on the aluminum body, use 3M pot scraper scrub pads (Dollar store). If you notice any rough edges on the bottom of the sprue plate, use a fine file on it and then polish with steel wool. A little bit of attention now will extend the life of your mold.

Aluminum molds need more lube. Lube the bottom of sprue plate, top of the mold, and alignment pins as soon as mold is up to temperature. Re-lube aluminum molds about every 50 pours. To lube properly, get the mold at working temp by pouring bullets. When it is warmed up - Fill the cavities - let sprue cool - break sprue - apply lube with cotton swab - wipe off excess with cotton rag - drop bullets - use the same cotton swab to lightly touch the alignment pins - carry on pouring. This method prevents contaminating the cavity with lube. If you get lube in the cavity you will get bullets with wavy lines and poor fill.

Aluminum molds and esp LEE molds are temperature sensitive. Higher temperatures wreck them quickly. Mold temperature should not exceed about 400-450F. Make sure you allow the mold to cool before breaking sprue, if the lead is smearing on the bottom of the sprue plate then you aren't waiting long enough. Use steel wool to clean off the bottom of the sprue cutter when it gets leaded up, if you leave it then it will start to score the top of the mold.
 
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howard2 said:
That Lyman 311041 mold you use is that the one sold on ebay for a little under $80.00 US? its been on my watch list for a while. I have been using a RCBS 30-180-FN with good success but its just a double. I does feed good in my M1.
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Yes that's the one. It's a great mold, drops perfectly round boolits with no effort. My 30-30s both love be them over a stout charge of Lever Evolution. Again, home made has checks and either speed green or 666-1 home made lube. I haven't cast any up in quite a while so don't exactly remember what size they drop. I'm pretty sure it's .312" at least with straight clip on wheel weights.
 
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