Moly bore cream

[Freyr_255]

So I just picked up a jar of this stuff to try out and was wondering what other people's impressions of it are? Kind of pricey stuff so I would hope there is some truth to the claim that it helps prevent fouling.

 

[Jeff/1911]

So I just picked up a jar of this stuff to try out and was wondering what other people's impressions of it are? Kind of pricey stuff so I would hope there is some truth to the claim that it helps prevent fouling.

I don't know personally, but I'd like to know what you find.

Jeff/1911.

 

[sunray]

"...pricey stuff..." That says everything. Moly coated bullets supposedly reduce fouling. Rifles don't need any kind of grease.

 

[Boomer]

If your product is made by Miss Moly or NECO it will last seemingly forever, you just need to use a little at a time. Starting with your bore cleaned down to bare metal, the idea is to get a thin coat on the entire bore surface then "burnish" it in with a bore brush dedicated to that purpose. The idea behind suspending the moly in grease is that it is much easier and less messy to apply than it is to attempt treating the inside of the bore with powdered moly. Shooting an untreated bore with moly bullets actually leads to a worse fouling problem as the moly is stripped off the bullet for a short distance, then copper fouling is laid down, which is partially covered with the moly coating of your next bullet and so on and so forth and such like. Better to treat the bore so it is becomes completely covered with moly before you do any shooting, the moly fills in all the tiny voids and leaves a slippery smooth finish that reduces friction and lowers pressure, and moly grease is a great way of getting it done. Shooting naked bullets in a treated bore presents a similar problem, the bullet picks up moly from the bore surface, which is then subject to jacket fouling of subsequent shots. Treat your barrel and shoot moly coated bullets.

Moly coating your own bullets is easy. Get a vitamin or pill bottle bottle, one with a locking lid is preferable, that is large enough to hold a box of bullets. Dump your bullets in, add about an eighth of a teaspoon of moly powder (100% pure molybdenum disulfide, superfine, 1.5 micron, grade) and let it bang around in an empty vibratory case tumbler for an hour or two. If your container does not have a locking cap, to avoid a mess, have the cap facing left to prevent it from unscrewing and dumping out the bullets and moly. Dump the bullets out onto a thick paper towel spread out on an open sheet of newspaper, and give them a rub to get rid of the excess moly. Pour them onto a second clean paper towel and repeat, and the finished product has a beautiful black shiny sheen to it.

Edited to add . . .
Molybdenum disulfide is a dry lubricant but it is not a rust inhibitor. Be sure to run an oil soaked patch through your bore after each shooting session or prior to long periods of storage. Each time your clean your bore, you will have to retreat it with moly paste.

 

[caramel]

To much cleaning with a copper brush actually reduce barrel life, a patch down the barrel every 100 rounds is all you need, a lot of phobia about cleaning or breaking in a barrel... JP.

 

[Freyr_255]

To much cleaning with a copper brush actually reduce barrel life, a patch down the barrel every 100 rounds is all you need, a lot of phobia about cleaning or breaking in a barrel... JP.

It's more of because I'm getting into shooting cast bullets out of a 454 casull SRH and Puma. Trying to keep lead fouling easy to clean up during the learning curve.

Thanks for the run down Boomer. And for the record 'molybdenum disulfide' is a terrible name. It's more practical to just call it molybdenite.

I'm heading to the range today with untreated barrels so if I run into issues with fouling I'll be able to tell the difference. At the very least I'll be able to tell in my shotgun as running a lot of slugs though it causes some fouling problems that are a pain in the ass to remove.