Hi just wondering if anyone could tell me the best rifle, load, scope for knocking down a large bull moose at 550 to 600 yards. Have a 30-06 pump and did not want to take the shot being afraid it wouldn't have enough when it got there and did not want to wound it and turn it into wolf bait. Thanks
MOOSE AT 550 yards
- Thread starter goring
- Start date
If you don't want to wound him the best thing is to get closer - you are getting vastly out of the range 99.99% of folks should be thinking about shooting game. I'm curious: do you have some particular moose particularly well patterned or something?
<><
<><
Remember Moose have poor eye sight, keen smell and especially good hearing.
A trick I have used in the past is to glass the moose and if he is chewing on something move in closer as he can't hear when very good when chewing. This works well only when your down wind.
Shooting a moose at 500 or 600 yards and getting a solid kill is more luck then skill for the average hunter.
A trick I have used in the past is to glass the moose and if he is chewing on something move in closer as he can't hear when very good when chewing. This works well only when your down wind.
Shooting a moose at 500 or 600 yards and getting a solid kill is more luck then skill for the average hunter.
- Location
- thornhill, ontario
Sako TRG42 in Lapua .338 and a zeiss 6-24 scope should work fine.
The moose was in a clear cut where moving closer was not an option, you couln't walk 2 feet without cracking a branch on the ground plus the weather was 0 degrees and very crisp, the sound would carry to much. Didn't consider shooting but after 50 years of moose hunting, first time I was faced with a shot like that. Just curious if a weapon was available which could have done the job. All 20/20 hindsight now !
To shoot a game animal at any distance beyond 350yds requires many days of practicing, sending hundreds of bullets downrange, and also requires a sub-moa load that will consistently hit the point of aim. If you are shooting at 600yds, close isn't good enough.
Also, while I am a fan of rem pumps, it would be the last rifle I would use for long range shooting...A quality bolt action, in either .300RUM or .300WBY would be my choice...
Also, while I am a fan of rem pumps, it would be the last rifle I would use for long range shooting...A quality bolt action, in either .300RUM or .300WBY would be my choice...
A responsible hunter knows when to pass (as you did). Lets face it you'll still have dinner on the table when you get home. David Petzal (F&S) descibed 300 yards as a long shot although admitted today 400 is 300. The rounds he recommended are:
300 Weatherby, .270 WSM and the 7mm Weatherby. Don't go home with a wounded moose on your mind.
300 Weatherby, .270 WSM and the 7mm Weatherby. Don't go home with a wounded moose on your mind.
At that distance your biggest problem will be hitting the kill zone. Your rifle must be accurate and you will need a range finder to confirm the distance.
This year a friends girl friend shot a moose at 440 yards with her 7mm 08. It was not a problem as far as energy required - range finder used as well.
This year a friends girl friend shot a moose at 440 yards with her 7mm 08. It was not a problem as far as energy required - range finder used as well.
Two years ago I shot my moose at 475 yards. I shot it with my 300 win mag and 180 gr hornady bullet,and a bushnell 3200 4-12x40 w/balistic reticle.
I practiced lots out to 500 yards so I was very confident in shooting that distance.
But like most ethical hunters 500 yard shots on animals is not common practice for me. But it is nice to know if you see the animal of a life time that you can make the shot.
I practiced lots out to 500 yards so I was very confident in shooting that distance.
But like most ethical hunters 500 yard shots on animals is not common practice for me. But it is nice to know if you see the animal of a life time that you can make the shot.
Someday I'd like to build a rig where I can just start to think about hitting paper at these types of ranges. I just looked up Lapua's stats on the 338. For a 300 yard zero, we're talking about 1.5 meter of drop at 600 meters - it would take huge skill even with one of the premier long range calibers in a finely tuned rifle. Lapua posts wind drift for a 4 m/s crosswind (whatever speed that is) - and we're talking over 3 meters of drift at 600 meters.
What about the .264 winchester magnum? I'm thinking myself about building a long range hunting rig (but not as long as we're talking here) in .260 remington. The ballistics of 264 cal bullets can be really great and must probably still carry enough energy to go (broadside) through a moose from a 264wm at 600 yards (btsp). It might make for an easier gun to shoot at long ranges overall.
RG
<><
What about the .264 winchester magnum? I'm thinking myself about building a long range hunting rig (but not as long as we're talking here) in .260 remington. The ballistics of 264 cal bullets can be really great and must probably still carry enough energy to go (broadside) through a moose from a 264wm at 600 yards (btsp). It might make for an easier gun to shoot at long ranges overall.
RG
<><
Longest shot I've ever tried was on a big cow moose at figuring bullet drop 600 yards with a .270 and 130gr handloads.I knew my gun and had a solid rest.And 18 year old eyes not 50.I held a door high of my intended target placing the first bullet through the heart .Hearing the smack sent a second one 4 inches higher taking out one lung.She walked 25 yards and fell .Don't recomend this but was young and cocky enough to try as the time.Sighted 3 inches high at 100 at 3000fps.Dont shoot past 400 these days.Older wiser.Exception is finishing others wounded game one deer at over 500..........Harold
I shot a cow moose this year at 430yds. .280 rem 170 gr. NORMA ammo. Had to hold 4ft high. I shoot alot, and have shot moose at 300+ a couple times with the same gun/bullet, but 400+yds was another challenge altogether. I had plenty of time to make a good rest and contemplate the shot...otherwise I would not have take the shot.
even IF you get the range right, know your ballistics ,have a solid rest and the perfect shot- at that distance little breeze can easily turn a lung shot into a gut shot.....I'll take a chance and get closer,shooting at game is not shooting at paper,and I don't need meat bad enough to risk wounding an animal,as the guy said-stuff you think about when you are a bit older
shortaction
CGN Regular
- Location
- Manitoulin Island, Ontario
The 7mm Mags would be the minimum in my mind.
The 300 Mags would be better.
A 338 Win Mag with 225gr Accubond would probably be the best of all worlds at that range.
You will pay for each step up in the recoil department though so get a firearm that fits good and has a good recoil pad and one that is not to light.
Shoot lots and lots before hand and only try the shot if the conditions are perfect!
The 300 Mags would be better.
A 338 Win Mag with 225gr Accubond would probably be the best of all worlds at that range.
You will pay for each step up in the recoil department though so get a firearm that fits good and has a good recoil pad and one that is not to light.
Shoot lots and lots before hand and only try the shot if the conditions are perfect!
I think you did the right thing by waiting goring, and it is really good to hear that you did. Each season, I pass about 10 animals for one that I take. Unable to get close enough, or the weather being too hot, or being unable to get the animal back to camp in good condition are the biggest limiters for me.
"you couln't walk 2 feet without cracking a branch on the ground" -- This probably just means your stalk needs work. Remember, 4 footed predators take game year round, and they are significantly more range limited then you are with your 3006.
Shooting at extended distances take some gear, but mostly lots and lots of practice. Then more practice. After that, go for a run, skip lunch, then practise more.
Most hunters that say they dropped an animal at X00m are simply unable to gauge range, on crack, or in a rare situation, got very lucky. The hunters that I know that have safely taken game at these extended ranges use thousands of rounds a year in practise, and burn out barrels regularly.
I know hunters that shoot their hunting rig bi-weekly all year, out to distances ranging from 25m to 800m that would not think of shooting a moose at that distance in anything but 100% ideal circumstances. Those are VERY hard to get -- exact known wind, exact known range, certainty that the rifle did not get some moisture in the barrel during the stalk, certainty that the animal will not move, a comfortable place to get prone, certainly that the bipod will not slip, certainty that there is a clear shooting path to the game, etc.
Ultimately, one of the best parts of hunting is the stalk. Often, the <30m shot took more skill then the X00m one. I saw one deer drop with powder burns this year. Boy did it right.
If you do want to shoot animals at extended ranges, get a rifle in a huntable caliber that does not break the bank to shoot(308 like), and shoot it until you NEVER miss a 3x5 index card(horizontal) at whatever distance you want to hunt at from honest field positions.
"you couln't walk 2 feet without cracking a branch on the ground" -- This probably just means your stalk needs work. Remember, 4 footed predators take game year round, and they are significantly more range limited then you are with your 3006.
Shooting at extended distances take some gear, but mostly lots and lots of practice. Then more practice. After that, go for a run, skip lunch, then practise more.
Most hunters that say they dropped an animal at X00m are simply unable to gauge range, on crack, or in a rare situation, got very lucky. The hunters that I know that have safely taken game at these extended ranges use thousands of rounds a year in practise, and burn out barrels regularly.
I know hunters that shoot their hunting rig bi-weekly all year, out to distances ranging from 25m to 800m that would not think of shooting a moose at that distance in anything but 100% ideal circumstances. Those are VERY hard to get -- exact known wind, exact known range, certainty that the rifle did not get some moisture in the barrel during the stalk, certainty that the animal will not move, a comfortable place to get prone, certainly that the bipod will not slip, certainty that there is a clear shooting path to the game, etc.
Ultimately, one of the best parts of hunting is the stalk. Often, the <30m shot took more skill then the X00m one. I saw one deer drop with powder burns this year. Boy did it right.
If you do want to shoot animals at extended ranges, get a rifle in a huntable caliber that does not break the bank to shoot(308 like), and shoot it until you NEVER miss a 3x5 index card(horizontal) at whatever distance you want to hunt at from honest field positions.
Personally I would try and get closer. Provides some comfort.
Realistically, you can practice at the range all week/month/year. But if you happen across a "moose of a life time", you are probably going to be shaking from the adrenaline. Or at least I would be. Thus degrading the shot placement that you have been practicing at the range.
On the other hand, if you feel confident you can over come the adrenaline and make the shot. I would recommend, like many others, a good bolt action rifle with a moderate scope (4-16x ish) and a good sturdy rest. As for cartridges, I would prefer something with some substance considering the range, 300 WSM to 338 WM with a 180 to 240 gr bullets, selected for thier impact characteristics and expansion at that range. Lastly, you should have a good range finder and a thorough ballistics card to help correctly adjust you aim.
Just my two cents.
Realistically, you can practice at the range all week/month/year. But if you happen across a "moose of a life time", you are probably going to be shaking from the adrenaline. Or at least I would be. Thus degrading the shot placement that you have been practicing at the range.
On the other hand, if you feel confident you can over come the adrenaline and make the shot. I would recommend, like many others, a good bolt action rifle with a moderate scope (4-16x ish) and a good sturdy rest. As for cartridges, I would prefer something with some substance considering the range, 300 WSM to 338 WM with a 180 to 240 gr bullets, selected for thier impact characteristics and expansion at that range. Lastly, you should have a good range finder and a thorough ballistics card to help correctly adjust you aim.
Just my two cents.
At the range one time, a guy next to me was shooting a bubba'd 303. He was bragging to me how accurate it was. He proceeded to tell me about a very long shot he made on a moose the previous year. Said his buddy walked over to retrieve the animal and he could barely see him until he waived his yellow rain jacket. He said he marked it off on his gps and it was 1.5 km's. He was dead serious. Based on that info, I'd say a bubba'd 303 with iron sights should do nicely 
