Moose Retrieval

we quite often use a small chainsaw to buck off the legs in a pinch but there are better tools for the job.
The rechargeable sawzalls are extremely handy though and not as heavy as a chainsaw, they don't smell and get fuel or oil on your clothes and they don't spray you with bonechips and meat shreds like the chainsaw does.... been there done that.

just burn the paint off the Sawzall blade before use ;)

Now, I use a sawzall to cut the hooves off deer, and also to split the spine down the middle if I want bone-in steaks and roasts. We hadn't seen sawzalls in our neck of the woods at the time. The 08 was not much messier than the bandsaw, though. Just scrape that "sawdust" away using a scraper.
 
Sawzall is fine as far as it goes. A hacksaw in a pinch or bone saw is much easier to control and makes less collateral bone chip damage. Frankly a buck 110 cutting deeply into and around the ball joint will do the job.
 
I keep 300ft of 1/4" cable and a pulley in my quad. Pulley to front of quad, cable to moose and other end is pulled by another quad.

works like a charm. Get it to the edge of the road to gut and quarter. saves a bunch of effort.
 
There is a lot of mention of "quarters" here. Almost none of them are actually referring to what a butcher calls quarters though. If you want to "quarter" a moose, you need a good butchers splitting saw ( ideal ) or the chainsaw mentioned previously. Trying to split the spine lengthwise accurately is no easy task. It is much easier to be precise if the moose is hanging up. But hauling a whole moose out of the bush to hang it up is just silly IMHO.
What we do is gut the moose, lay it on its side, and skin out the top side. Keep this skin clean as you work. Using a knife, cut off the shoulder and front leg. It is not attached with anything a knife can't handle. Bag the front leg in a cotton bag. Extra large pillowcases are almost ideal. Cheese cloth is way too porous and lets in too much dirt. Set aside on some clean grass or leaves, or better yet hang it up to cool. Separate hind leg from pelvis and work up and around, close to the hip bone and spine to keep as much of the meat (round steaks) as possible with the hind leg. Feel for the ball joint by moving the leg and cut the small tendon that holds the ball to the pelvis with the tip of your knife. Bag that hind leg as you did the front. You now have a legless carcass on the top side. Cut the ribs off on that side, using a saw, or hatchet. Saw is better, makes the ribs less dangerous since there won't be as many sharp shards to handle. Cut them so that you don't damage the rib steaks, perhaps 6" from the centre of the spine. Roll carcass over on the clean hide to the other side, skin that side, and repeat removal of front leg, hind leg, and ribs. Both rib slabs will fit in one bag. Split backbone horizontally between second and third ribs. Bag the loins and pelvis. Remove head if you haven't already. Bag the front backbone/rib steak and neck piece. that't the biggest , heaviest piece by far. You will have 7 or 8 bags of meat, bone - in, in nice manageable pieces just a good size to put on a packframe. Four legs, ( Not "quarters"!) the two spine pieces, one bag of ribs, and the head if you keep it. The advantage of cutting the moose up with bone attached is cleaner meat that can be hung to age without shortening. Backstraps removed by the "gutless" method will shorten and become tough, and no amount of hanging to age will yield as nice and tender steak as you will get by hanging "on the bone". No quad or winch or power equipment needed, just this: a good packframe, some cotton bags, a skinning and perhaps a slimmer deboning knife, a folding saw or hatchet, some cord to hang the meat to cool, good boots and some muscle. Have done it many many times. Note this method will not be OK in BC, where proof of ### needs to stay attached to the carcass.
 
Gut it immediately, heat is your enemy. If on foot (no access to wheels of any kind, quarter it. Much easier to carry.

Dedicated chainsaw with vegetable oil is very handy and a tad messy. Your friends will never look at you the same...

I use a battery powered reciprocating saw works great for quartering.
 
It's useless to the OP, but I just have to share a story.
I have a friend that wanted to drag a moose out, but for his "crazy carpet" he used a 12 foot aluminum boat.
The boat survived the trip, but, as you might imagine, it will never float again.

The ATV has changed hunting moose forever, but if you ask the older among us, you will still be told of the days we dragged moose by horse, or tractor, or army jeep. And yes, we even packed them out a bit at a time. We were younger and stronger back then. Pain free for the most part, and the pain we did have was removed by refreshments at camp later.
I know there was a camp north of us that had their moose lifted out by chopper. Bet that cost a pretty penny.
 
We hunt by water, you only have to pack it out as far as the canoe, which is usually less than 100 yards away. We have on occasion dragged a Coleman Scanoe to the moose, loaded it in and then dragged the Scanoe back out... works best on a downhill drag.
 
Pretty much do as Longwalker stated. I carry a small hunting saw in my pack. If it isn't too far, I will carry the quarters over my shoulder, with the leg still on as the bent joints sit well on the shoulder and the leg acts as a fulcrum for balancing load while carrying. Otherwise I put the quarter in my pack or on my packframe that has a shelf.
Grandpa did it all with a pocketknife and an old wooden/canvas packframe.
Really makes a difference if you are alone or have help, how far you have to transport the animal, and over what type of terrain you must travel. Discretion and thinking about the recovery before shooting is wisest method! LOL
Calf sled or stiff poly stretcher that you can tie animal into for dragging under the right conditions is a great idea.
 
I've heard guys talk about how it's a point of pride to drag out a moose whole and deliver it to the butcher the next day, hide on...I always think about how much the meat has deteriorated. Cutting it up and allowing the meat to cool makes so much more sense. This point was hammered home one year when we killed a moose high on a ridge in the afternoon in November.

There was a brief discussion about gutting it and leaving it until the next day, which was vetoed. There was only 2 of us, but we did gutless and skinned the parts, then laid the parts over the buckbrush. It was dark so we had to go back next day.

Overnight it had got much colder and a small skiff of snow had fallen. Since it was a steep backpack trip down, we boned out most of the meat. It was all nice and cool. At then end, I went to skin out the head for the antlers and found that the skull was still very warm. Imagine if we had let the quarters unskinned and let them be hot all night, despite the colder temperatures? The skull has very little meat around it compared to a hindquarter. Whenever I hear of meat tasting 'Gamey" I always know they didn't cool the meat properly.

This moose was an ancient senior citizen, killed in northern BC in August. Temperatures were t-shirt in the day to light sweater in evening. Old bull, but due to proper meat care and rapid cooling, the meat was nice and tender. Get that hide off and cool it down fast, boys and girls! :)

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What’s with all this cheese cloth and bags . Just cut the sucker into four pieces, either carry a quarter on your back, tie it to a pole and carry it. You can skin it when you get it home. I’ve seen a lot of moose being removed from rough terrain, never seen one deboned in da bush.



And more.
 
That's about right. There's guys who can pack whole quarters long distances in rough terrain, but they are tougher than I am. A great meat bag is pillow cases from a bargain store, 20 bucks will buy an armful. You can even wash and reuse them if you're single or wish to become single.

very good advice. do not forget a pair of young lads to do the carry job ....
 
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