You can also do a good job of setting up your sizing die by feel. When you run a fireformed case only part of the way into the sizing die, it will actually change it’s dimension and make it hard to or impossible to chamber. Squeezing the case walls down causes the case to lengthen and gets too long for the chamber. When I set up a Redding body die or a full length die I will remove the firing pin assembly and the ejector plunger and spring so there is no interference with the feel. Then I adjust the die in small increments and keep sizing a case until the bolt handle falls all the way closed under its own weight. All the way; meaning the bolt handle hits metal stop at the bottom with no resistance. Then rotate that case around in the chamber to make sure it works in all positions. This method doesn’t tell you exactly how much clearance you have, but if you take your time it will be minimal. I use a Redding body die with Lee collet die and I have great brass life doing this with consistent easy chambering.
A little added experience:
I have a Sinclair concentricity gauge and a Hornady concentricity gauge and used them to figure out which steps were causing runout. Resizing with FL die w expander ball was a big cause and very inconsistent depending on lube inside the neck. Once I switched to Redding body die and Lee collet it solved that but I was still getting inconsistent results during the bullet seating step(using rcbs, Redding and Lee seating dies). Jerry and others recommended the Forster BR seating die and that solved the rest of the problem. Now I would just recommend for most purposes to skip buying die sets and just start with these dies. I don’t even really use the concentricity gauges anymore.
My plan is to buy a body die, and also buy a Lee collet neck die, ( not available yet separately??) but I’m trying to use what I have at the moment. I also see lots of people are claiming online, that setting your FL die to bump is also effective and may be better. Just not sure if they are using FL bushing dies and turning necks.
I guess I'm tired of buying stuff lol...... so I'm gonna buy more.
Then try a Forster full length benchrest die with its high mounted floating expander. The neck of the case is still held and centered in the neck of the die when the expander enters the case neck.
Meaning these Forster dies will not pull your case necks off center and induce neck runout.
You can also try the Redding competition shell holders and just bump the shoulder back the minimum amount from its fired length. Meaning not take the bolt apart and go by feel, the five competition shell holders allow you to bump the shoulder back in .002 increments and never touch the die during bump adjustment. The competition shell holders allow the die to make hard contact with the die with press cam over.
Example below
Again below is a fired 5.56 case from my AR15 at 1.4675 and to bump the shoulder back .003 I used the +.004 competition shell holder. This shell holder pushes the case into the die .004 "less" than a standard shell holder and makes hard contact with the die. This takes any slop out of the press and makes your shoulder location more constant. And if the standard shell holder had been used the shoulder would have been pushed back .007 if the die made hard contact with the shell holder.
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To bump the shoulder the same amount with a standard shell holder you would need to put feeler gauges between the shell holder and die and have a air gap between the shell holder and die. The problem with this method is the shell holder and die do not make contact and any flex in the press causes variations in shoulder location.
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Bottom line the advantage to using Forster benchrest dies are you only size the case in one operation with no "speed bumps" on the case neck from using the Lee collet die. This means you can check case neck runout "before" seating a bullet and know if you have a problem case. And not have speed bumps on the case neck and not have accurate readings.
There are many reloaders using the Lee collet die and a body die and are very happy campers. I just prefer using the Forster dies over the Lee collet die and the bullet runout figures are the same. So remember using the dies expander is not the end of the world as long as the expander is centered and the inside of the case neck is lubed.
Yes, it seems either Redding body die/Lee collet neck die or Redding FL S die and neck turn. I will probably just stick with the first combo.
Marty, how is the neck tension with the Lee die? Did you have to do any modifications to it?
A little added experience: I have a Sinclair concentricity gauge and a Hornady concentricity gauge and used them to figure out which steps were causing runout. Resizing with FL die w expander ball was a big cause and very inconsistent depending on lube inside the neck. Once I switched to Redding body die and Lee collet it solved that but I was still getting inconsistent results during the bullet seating step(using rcbs, Redding and Lee seating dies). Jerry and others recommended the Forster BR seating die and that solved the rest of the problem. Now I would just recommend for most purposes to skip buying die sets and just start with these dies. I don’t even really use the concentricity gauges anymore.
As i have sinclairs concentricity gauge, Redding body, Lee collet, and Forster BR NM seating die.
I now live the same thing, as in not needing the concentricity gauge. Everything clocks within 1 thou runout.
These redding match shell holders look great, I’ll probably buy some.
I remember with my Lee setup, i had to shave a shellholder to allow 2 thou bump as die would contact shellholder before bump was made.
Ya sometimes we can get a little lost in the equipment and the exacting measurements and possibly misunderstand what we are trying to accomplish, especially when dealing with our hunting and factory rifles. If a person has a good understanding of what they’re trying to accomplish, it makes the process and tool selection easier. In the case of headspace I'm mostly trying to build ammo that has full clearance for easy, reliable chambering, but minimum full clearance to improve brass life.
This forum's been really good for me. I learned from Ed and Jerry that there are multiple ways to achieve the same result. I found one way easier to understand and could put it into practice a little better than the other. Never looked back and over time getting better.
Regards
Ronr
That is something that is still a mystery to me, neck tension
If it is measured by caliper or by some sort of torque spec while seating, unsolved mystery
I’d probably find the answer if i’d search it
What i can tell, the neck opening is 305 and bullets are 308
Would that be considered a 3 thou neck tension?
Loaded neck dimension minus unloaded dimension = neck tension.
RonR, how did you remove material from the mandrel? Hand held drill and fine sandpaper? Lathe?
Thanks will check this out soon.
Got the specs on recommended neck tension?
Or is it something proprietary to each rifle setup?