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mistahmojoryan

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I'm planning to get into reloading and I've got a list of other things so I'm looking for some feedback.

1- Lee Anniversary Kit OR
RCBS Rockchucker Kit
2- Lee Case Length Guage
3- Lee 3-die set (which includes a bullet seater, roll crimper, shell holder, powder dipper, load data, full length sizer, factory crimp die, long guided expander, built in stuck case remover) OR
Hornady 2 die set for the same price :confused:

I'm kind of confused about this. The Lee set includes a bunch of extras for a few dollars less. And if I get the Hornady dies I'll need to buy a shell holder but that's it....I think.

4- Hornady Case Tumbler/Sifter/Media
5- Bullets...check
6- Powder- H4831
7- Primers for 300WM- I have no clue

I'm moving and starting a new job soon so I probably won't be getting into reloading until I'm settled in...next spring is realistic. I'm just looking for feedback on my choices. Any glaring ommissionsor have I made any poor equipment choices (I'll spend a few extra bucks for better quality; I don't need the best though. ;) ).

Thanks for any feedback! :)
 
1- Lee Anniversary Kit OR
RCBS Rockchucker Kit

** Either one is fine but I think the Rockchucker is a lot more expensive. The Rockchucker is a better press but it really depends on what you want out of reloading in the first place. The Lee stuff is a good place to start and eventually you are going to end up with multiple presses anyway so nothing is a waste to purchase. I have three presses and two powder measures on my bench and another press waiting to be mounted for lack of room on the bench.

2- Lee Case Length Guage

** Waste of time. Buy a reasonable set of dial calipers.

3- Lee 3-die set (which includes a bullet seater, roll crimper, shell holder, powder dipper, load data, full length sizer, factory crimp die, long guided expander, built in stuck case remover) OR
Hornady 2 die set for the same price

** There is nothing wrong with the Lee stuff. I started with Lee 15+ years ago and it is all still working. To start Lee is excellent cause they give you more bits & pieces. You can always upgrade later.

4- Hornady Case Tumbler/Sifter/Media

** You don't need this right off the bat. I reloaded for 10 years without ever owning a tumbler.

7- Primers for 300WM- I have no clue

** Large rifle magnum.

I'm moving and starting a new job soon so I probably won't be getting into reloading until I'm settled in...next spring is realistic. I'm just looking for feedback on my choices. Any glaring ommissionsor have I made any poor equipment choices (I'll spend a few extra bucks for better quality; I don't need the best though. ).

** While there is nothing wrong with them, don't get fooled into thinking RCBS is top quality. The Hornady stuff is excellent but if you want really good you need to look at Redding micrometer dies and the like.
 
Lee kits are good for the dough, the case length guage is actually a trimmer. Read the Lee website carefully as they have several different die sets per caliber. LRM primers, Winchester are fine. You have time, so get a few good loading manuals and study up.
 
Speer, Hornady, Sierra, Hodgon all put out comphrensive reloading manuels. If you intend to reload barnes bullets get their manuel as well, otherwise I wouldn't bother!
 
mistahmojoryan said:
Thanks, that helps a lot.

What are some good reloading manuals?


Here is a link to a list of on-line sources of tested data from powder and bullet manufactures as well as other info.

As for tools I suggest you buy the best you can afford. You also have to realistically look at how much reloading you will be doing each year. A person loading 100 or less rounds each year makes less demands on their tools than the guy loading thousands of rounds annually.

I personally don't care for the semi- disposable tools that are engineered to an "acceptable" failure rate. (What is acceptable to the manufacturer may not be acceptable to me) To someone loading small volumes however they probably are OK.
 
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Well, I'll definitely have to get the Hornady manual as I've always held a preference for their bullets.

There's no way I'll be doing thousands of rounds per year...at least, not anytime soon. A few hundred would be more like it so I can customize my hunting loads instead of playing with factory ammo all the time.

No tumbler? Should I still clean my brass with something or just the primer pocket? I found a good thread on cleaning brass w/o a tumbler here:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50558&highlight=tumbler
I've got a few hundred pieces; some once fired, some twice fired from a half dozen manufacturers. A little direction in this matter is appreciated. :)
 
A tumbler is very nice to have but not a necessity. The prices have also come down lately thanks to the weak American dollar.

A RCBS vibratory tumbler is now less than 100 bucks - or in other words 2/3s of the money I paid for mine. ;) LoL

For small amounts of brass some liquid case cleaner and a resealable plastic or glass container works well. (Air dry the cases for a couple of days or put them in the oven at low temperatures for a bit)
 
mistahmojoryan said:
I've got a few hundred pieces; some once fired, some twice fired from a half dozen manufacturers. A little direction in this matter is appreciated. :)


The first thing you want to do is sort all those cases into different groups based on manufacturer. When you start working up loads for your rifle pick one brand and use only that one for any given load as a powder charge worked up in one brand of case may not be safe in another.

For example in 30-06 Winchester cases have a slightly larger internal volume than Remington (RP) While both brands are of good quality a maximum load worked up in a Winchester case may cause over-pressure if the same weight of powder is used in the RP case.
 
I like my Lyman 47th edition manual, they have the 48th now also if you buy an Anniversary kit you have the option of getting it with the Lee manual which is so-so. I like my Lyman 1200 cleaner, does a nice job.
 
Can't have to many reloading books, I have 7 in total. Hornady, Lee and Lyman and Barnes and a few others. Always check on the powder manufactures web site because I don't think there are two manuals that give the same reloading info about the exact same bullet/weight. Learn to stay within the specs of at least two of the manuals and know what to look for as far as pressure signs. For instance I have my favorite 30-06 150grn sbt and there is a 4 grn difference as the max for IMR 4350 powder from there web site and my manuals. I always play it safe and stick with what the web site says first then trust the books. Anyone else agree?
 
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