Mosin Nagant Accuracy

Tyler

Tyler

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Well then. I had my 1942 1891/30 out at the range yesterday and the groups weren't adding up. I shot well enough with every other rifle but my Nagant just wouldn't group well. I was using the blue box/silver tip ammo along with Igman 150gr soft points. Both types shot the same patterns. It was about 5 inches high and my groups were about 6 or 7 inches.

The action is tight in the wood, no movement. Both screws were tightened up.

I took the rifle apart today and noticed a few things. By a rub mark in the lower wood I can tell that the barrel is touching the wood from the reciever to about 6 inches past the reciever, roughly 1 inch in front of the rear sight block, when viewed from the top.

The front of the lower wood does not push up on the barrel like it does on my Enfield. I can pass a piece of paper through it. Is this normal?

The front of the top wood (or more correctly the front brass fitting) is touching the top of the barrel. There are brass rub marks here too, after firing.

Also, the trigger pull is almost an inch long. I'm not even exaggerating. The trigger is almost touching the back of the guard before the sear finally disengages the hammer. I may fix the problem with some shims for the time being, but a Huber Concepts trigger is definately in the future for this rifle.

Any suggestions?

Where should I put shims? Is some sanding/wood work in order?
 
The only one I had that shot half decent was a polish M44. I never had a 91/30 that was anything comparible to my other milsurps.
Now, that ammo isn't exactly match grade, it's steel core and likely for MG's. Try some different ammo or load for it and see if things improve.
 
First thing to do is mic the bullets in your ammo and slug the bore. Se if the bullets are at least as large as the groove to groove diameter.

Next, when you drop the action into the stock, before you tighten the action screws, make sure the receiver is all the way back in the stock so that the recoil lug rests against the recoil crossbolt.

It also sounds like you might need to shim the tang area of the receiver. The front of your barrel should basically be lying flat against the tip of the forestock without the handguard forcing it down. The handguard is just there to stop you from burning your hands in combat - it shouldn't have anything to do with the bedding.

If shimming the tang won't get you there, rub some black shoe polish on the high points of the barelled action and find out where you need to GENTLY remove material from the inletting. GO SLOW. You can't put wood back easily.

Forget the Huber Concepts trigger. You need to carefully stone your cocking piece engagement surface and your trigger sear. Don't overdo it. Once you have a smooth pull, #### the rifle and slam the butt down hard on a piece of 2X4 or whatever. Do this a dozen times or so to make sure the gun won;t go off on its own.
 
What's the 'tang' area? Front screw area or rear?

By stone, I assume you mean file?

Opps... Stacey and I share a computer and both post here.... looks like I'm still logged in under her name.

Tyler
 
tang is rear.

By stone hea means polishing, not filing. If you change the angle and get a negative one, you will shot an accident waiting to happen.

these two guys are the guru of milsurp, so you're in good hands...
 
"...assume you mean file..." No he doesn't. He means use a whet stone. A file removes too much metal in one pass. You want to smooth out the surface, not change the amount of metal there.
Change ammo before you do anything.
 
5-6" at 100 yards is not that bad with Milsurp ammo. I'd slug the bore to get a diameter and re-load some shells.

I get 3-7" with Milsurp ammo in mine. The Czech (light green box - sliver stripe) shoots hight (8-10") and I have some Ygoslavian that is spot on elevation with 4-5" groups.

Damn the size of the front sight covers 2-3 inches on a 8" black circle at 100 yards...
 
Claven2 said:
Next, when you drop the action into the stock, before you tighten the action screws, make sure the receiver is all the way back in the stock so that the recoil lug rests against the recoil crossbolt.

It also sounds like you might need to shim the tang area of the receiver. The front of your barrel should basically be lying flat against the tip of the forestock without the handguard forcing it down. The handguard is just there to stop you from burning your hands in combat - it shouldn't have anything to do with the bedding.
Click to expand...

Is the recoil lug where the front screw goes in from below?
 
I supposed to go to the range today, but is so cold that will go on Thursday.
I have made some loads for my Mosin and will test .308" type bullets in that rifle with open sights at 100yr. On Thursday I will post some pics and groups.
This will be my second date with that particular Mosin, which truly impressed me with 2.9" group at 100yr with first ammo I could put my hands on.
 
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