Mosin Nagant Complete Disassembly thread

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Here is my second attempt at one of these. I did some looking and noticed that there was nothing (at least sticky-ed) for a Mosin Nagant

Now for working a Mosin Nagant, the best thing to have is a Mosin Multi-tool. If your Mosin did not come with one I highly suggest getting one, however you can get by with out one and I will try to help those out without one.


I will start with a basic field strip, than go into further details disassembling the bolt, trigger group, magazine release and ejector.

So for the field strip, you start with removing the bolt (after making sure it is safe). To do this you work the bolt into the back position.


At the back of the pull you will feel it stop and not go any further, to release the bolt pull the trigger and you will be able to pull it all the way out


Next you remove the front hand guard band. To do this depress the retainer and work the band to the front end of the barrel.


Note that the front sight makes it impossible to remove the band without removing the front sight or wrecking the band.


Next you remove the rear hand guard band. Again you depress the retainer and work the band to the front end of the barrel.


Unlike the front hand guard band, this one can fit past the front sight.


The upper hand guard will now be free and can be removed.


Next you remove the magazine follower from the rifle. first you release the magazine using the magazine release on the bottom of the magazine.


To release the magazine follower from the rifle you squeeze the follower to the bottom plate and pull it out.


To make it a little more clear how this works I have included a picture of the magazine follower uncompressed, and compressed below.



Next you remove the barrel, magazine housing and action from the stock. Locate the flat screw on the bottom of the action in front of the box magazine. You can use the Mosin tool to undo this screw.


Now the only thing holding the stock to the receiver is a screw behind where the bolt regularly is.


Again, you can use the Mosin tool to remove this screw.


For reference when you reassembly the rifle the screw on the top goes on the top of the action, and the one on the bottom goes on the bottom on the magazine housing


You can now pull the trigger guard, and magazine housing out of the bottom of the stock.


The barrel and action will also be free to pull out of the stock.


The rifle is now field stripped. To reassemble the rifle reverse the order. If at any point you have a pin fall out and you are unsure where it came from, just go down to the trigger disassembly/reassembly part of this tutorial, as it is most likely the trigger pin that fell out.

Now to strip the bolt.


Holding the Cocker (knob at the end of the bolt) and the bolt handle, rotate the bolt handle counter-clockwise (or the cocker clockwise)


The Bolt head and extractor will now be free.



Turn the bolt head counter-clockwise and pull it forward free from the extractor


Next not the alignment of the "flat head screw" with the lines on the cocker


Now using the notch closet to the hole in the Mosin tool rotate the firing pin out of the bolt carrier. Keep a hand on the firing pin as the spring can shoot it out.


Pull the firing pin and spring out of the front.


You can now pull the bolt handle from the cocker.


The bolt is now fully disassembled.

Since the bolt can be confusing to reassemble for the first time I included a lot of detailed pictures for the reassembly.
First align the cocker, to the bolt handle as shown in next pictures.



Then using the Mosin tool push the firing pin in and turn it clockwise back into the cocker.
Rotate the firing pin until the on the end of the cocker it is flush.
This picture shows it not tightened enough

This picture shows it tightened up too much

This picture shows it tightened just far enough (not the slot lining up with the two lines on the cocker.)

Now on the extractor there is a lil nub.

And on the bolt head there is a groove milled into it

Insert the extractor into the bolt head with the nub going into the slot.


Then rotate the bolt head 90 degrees so the nub follows the perpendicular slot until it stops.


On the cocker/firing pin assembly you will see another nub at the back

Slide the bolt head assembly onto the firing pin assembly aligning the prongs on the extractor with the nub on the cocker/firing pin assembly.
There is also a hole in the firing pin/cocker that a nub in the bolt head fits into. Make sure you put it into this hole


Now you need to check if you screwed the firing pin in far enough. Use the two center notches on the Mosin tool as a go-noGo gauge. The firing pin should be able to go under the on with “95” printed above it, but not the one with “75”. If you do not have the Mosin tool, the firing pin needs to stick out between 7.5mm and 9.5mm, with the ideal being 9mm.


Once your firing pin is between those two notches, you pull back the Cocker and rotate it counter-clockwise.


If the firing pin is no longer visible, your bolt should be put together correctly.

Up next in this guide is the trigger disassembly/reassembly. To begin you undo the screw on the trigger spring/seer, you can use the Mosin tool to do this.


Once the screw is removed you then have to push the trigger pin out. This will be very easy to do as this pin is always loose, and with the trigger spin unscrewed from the receiver there should be no tension on it.


The trigger and seer should now be free to be lifted out from the receiver



The reassembly is the same but in reverse order. For your reference here is a picture to show the way the seer/trigger spring fit into the trigger.


This is the section going over the ejector disassembly/reassembly. The ejector is retained in the receiver by the ejector spring, the ejector spring is held into place by a screw located almost directly below the trigger pin. To remove this screw you will need a blade screwdriver that is thinner than the end of the Mosin tool.

Once the screw is removed you have to slide the spring forward (towards the barrel) if you look at the opposite end of the spring you will notice a slot with a square pin in it, slide this until the square pin prevents it from going further.


Using the tab on the spring pull back.

Using your other hand pivot the ejector out the gap created by pulling the spring outwards.



With the ejector out you can now remove the ejector spring by pushing it all the way forward (towards the barrel) until it is out of the groove and free.


The ejector assembly is now fully disassembled. To reassemble it the ejector will have to be properly located within the notch cut out for it in the receiver. Below is a picture showing you how it is supposed to rest. Note how the two little tabs on each end are on the outside, and that the ejector is sitting flat.


To reinstall the ejector you first push the spring back into the slot (without the ejector in place).


Then following a similar procedure to removing the ejector, you pull the spring back and pivot the ejector into place. Again make sure the ejector has each of the tabs resting on the outside of the receiver and that it is resting flat.
Once the ejector is in place slide the spring back so the tab is in the back side of the groove.


You have to make sure the hole in the spring matches up perfectly with the threaded hole in the receiver. You may need to tap it back, as the ejector has some play in its slot in the receiver.
.

Once this is all aligned you can reinstall the screw to hold the assembly in place.

The magazine catch is held in by a screw just above the trigger guard.


This is another screw that is too thin to use the Mosin tool on, use a properly fitting blade screw driver to remove this screw. once the screw is undone, the magazine release can be removed through the bottom.


Assembly is the same in reverse, make sure to orientate the magazine catch the proper way (see above picture for reference).


Any comments? Anything I missed? Does anything need more pictures or a better description?
 
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Good tutorial, Ive done it a hundred times and still get confused when putting the bolt back together, it takes me a couple minutes to figure out every time.
 
Nicely done. Once the bolt head and connecting bar are removed from the bolt body,the easiest way to disassemble the firing pin is to rest the tip of the firing pin on a non-slippery surface then push down to compress the firing pin spring and unscrewing the cocking knob by hand then slowly allow the spring to relax. The procedure is inverted for reassembly and the Mosin tool is used to precisely adjust the firing pin protusion. Just a precision, the 75 and 95 number on the combo tool represent minimum and maximum firing pin protusion. Mosin will fire perfectly with the firing pin set at 75. The bayonet is a better tool to remove the screws holding the action in the stock if you are in the field.

Joce
 
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Very nice. Printed it out for "the binder". Excellent to have a good reference, with all the pics, available.
 
Do you guys do a full stock removal field strip after firing corrosive? Seems excessive to constantly remove the barrel bands and flat head screws over and over again after every outing . I feel fine just cleaning the barrel, action, and mag.
 
Also, my understanding of the firing pin protrusion differs slightly compared to this demonstration.

I set mine so it sits evenly and passes freely through the 75 notch.
In the 95 notch it leaves a small space at the top, so the tip does not touch the tool. This essentially gives you a measurement of 90, which is what is the required level of the pin. The "scratch" line on the back of the safety lines up perfectly too this way.

I've seen this method in many tutorials FYI. So Id likely hear your opinions because it varies a bit compared to the OPs recommendation.
 
The way I do it is get it lined up with the scratch on the back of the bolt with the "screw head" flush with the surface as this has always got it to the right length, hard to see but the pin in my picture as well just bearly touches the 95 notch
 
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