Mosin Nagant from SIR mail order
- Thread starter zyb
- Start date
- Location
- Surrey B.C. Canada
Can't comment on the particular rifle, but I have never had a bit of trouble with SIR with any order placed over the last 15-18 years or so.
A little off topic but if you are debating between them it's been my experience that the 91/30 has nicer sights then the 44. Has finer adjustment which is nice, something like every 50 yards instead of every 100.
I was in there with a friend just after they started putting them out (Sept. 15) and my friend bought one. 1940, Ishvsk, looks good, all kindsa extra junque with it AND a bayonet.
Bit of glassbedding later and it is shooting 1-1/2MOA at 350, which is definitely okay for a $139 rifle.
Bit of glassbedding later and it is shooting 1-1/2MOA at 350, which is definitely okay for a $139 rifle.
Is there a guide out there somewhere for this? Trying to find bedding guides for full length military rifles with pictures or good descriptions are hard to find on the web. Even with the CF guide to bedding Lee Enfields, I'm still not entirely sure how to do it, and I'de love to do my Mosin.
as to bedding, every rifle is different.
Easiest way to start off would be to bed the critter like a Number 4: solid around the action, solid to the front of the chamber, float the barrel and have a pressurepoint just at the front of the forestock. Some of them like this.
My friend beds the critters absolutely solid, full-length, on Day 1, fires about 3 rounds between 18 and 24 hours later, then lets them stand for 3 days then takes them out and shoots them. He gets regular 4-to-5-inch called 3-round groups at 350 like this, but then, he IS handloading for the rifle. You likely won't get this with factory ammo.
If it were my own rifle, I would bed it like I bedded the one I am shooting: just like a Number 4, and then handload. I'm using Hornady .312 bullets, 150 grains, and my own Ishevsk 1939 is shooting regular 2 inches at 100 and I'm perfectly happy with that as, even with the new quadrifocals, I can't see any better than that!
Biggest problem in bedding the MN rifle is that very light and whippy fore-end, which is why my friend beds 'em solid all the way.
Easiest way to start off would be to bed the critter like a Number 4: solid around the action, solid to the front of the chamber, float the barrel and have a pressurepoint just at the front of the forestock. Some of them like this.
My friend beds the critters absolutely solid, full-length, on Day 1, fires about 3 rounds between 18 and 24 hours later, then lets them stand for 3 days then takes them out and shoots them. He gets regular 4-to-5-inch called 3-round groups at 350 like this, but then, he IS handloading for the rifle. You likely won't get this with factory ammo.
If it were my own rifle, I would bed it like I bedded the one I am shooting: just like a Number 4, and then handload. I'm using Hornady .312 bullets, 150 grains, and my own Ishevsk 1939 is shooting regular 2 inches at 100 and I'm perfectly happy with that as, even with the new quadrifocals, I can't see any better than that!
Biggest problem in bedding the MN rifle is that very light and whippy fore-end, which is why my friend beds 'em solid all the way.
I guess that's why the Finns made their own stocks.
I've shimmed up my action, and I'm going to try putting some greased felt near the end of the forestock as I'm told the Russians did this and got good results.
My rifle was made in 1942 and has some uneven surfaces and ridges on the underside of the reciever where the metal meets the wood. There is one ridge big enough that has me contemplating filing the thing down and making it even with the rest of it.
