mosin nagant pu sniper

Markzdb

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hi everyone. I am looking for a mosin nagant pu sniper. Any ideas where should I start looking from (EE, westrifle, etc...)??? Thanks for your inputs:welcome:
 
Those are great places to start looking, call and ask around to see whats available. Try Corwin Arms as well, he's had them before.
 
SFRC sometimes gets them and if you hit the button that says please notify me. They will send you an email when they get some but check westrifle and PS Militaria I think has some. I bought an exsniper from westrifle and bought a scope mount from Russian on eBay. I bought a scope from either westrifle or Hical for $130 that is new but made in Russian so the glass is perfect not that scratched foggy old used scopes from ww2.
 
Some Canadian Tire stores are a good place to start. Pricing is reasonable, you get to actually see what you plan to buy, and sometimes you have a choice of 2-3.
Most retail (not re-sold) are in "good" condition. As is always the case there is something "wrong" with just about every one. One has a better bore, another has a nice stock, a third has a better scope. Best approach is to decide beforehand what it most important to you and what "flaws" you can live with.
Online purchases are the same situation but when you order online you can't always specify "better bore" or whichever condition you what to focus on.
There aren't many bargains in resale at he moment - most still seem to be listed above retail. The advantage is you get a better look at what you are buying. The disadvantage is the possibility that the seller has been tutored by the various doubtful YouTube improvements.
PUs are not "rare" so take your time to decide and don't overpay. Retail is $700-$750 at the moment.
 
Also it depends if you want a original one or one of the reproduction ones as sold by most dealers.

If you want a original be sure to check that they have the proper WW2 Highwall receivers and stocks, original and not repro scope mounts, some of which are cast from cheap metal unlike the forged and machined originals and have original WW2 dated scopes.

Most repro's Mosin sniper rifles comes with post war made reproduction PU Sniper scopes. Post war newly made repro scope mounts can be made out of machined steel like the original ones but some are cheap aluminum or cast metal copies.

Also most newer repro Mosin snipers are marked on the receiver with the importers and post war assembly company name and model type and this detracts from true collector rifles.

Very few dealers sell real Mosin Sniper rifles. Molot marked ones are generally regarded as real deal ones that they resold from military and police storage. One of the easiest way to tell if it is a real WW2 sniper is to look at the scopes date of manufacture and if the scope's serial number is matched to the rifle and stamped onto its receiver.

 
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Diopter is indeed the one who fixed the windage on mine! Near that large screw in the scope mount there is a metal stud that must be ground down to centre the scope properly, we used the iron sights and the scope windage set to zero to do this, but it is pretty obvious the scope is not straight before you grind it. I think this is necessary as not all rifles and mounts will fit the same so they expect you to do it. Very simple, just make sure not to take off too much...

The pictures I linked are a repro from west rifle, and show what you get: a mosin, a scope mount, a bayonet (not shown) and a new manufacture pu scope. (no muzzle brake obviously). The wood cutting is a bit rough but can be easily smoothed down, the holes into the receiver are fine and have not caused any problems. Trigger is "ok" so far as mosins go (not saying much). Scope appears to be very robust, and the gun shoots very well (only been able to test to 50m). Bore is shiny. Obviously I have no idea if all their stuff is like that.

As others have pointed out you need to be very careful if you want a real sniper. From what I have been told they have long since been shot to #### and the scopes seals etc have failed, so it would be mostly for collection purposes. They were (apparently) just regular mosins with a scope slapped on anyway (apparently they selected the ones that shot better) so modern repro's are not far off what the Russians put out anyway.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/93cayqnqu6c4u4f/AACSsNPRalW3MLx7H4O2ZFc7a?dl=0
 
Genuine PU Mosins outnumber reproductions in the retail market at the moment but the tip concerning the turret screws (dome vs. flat) is a good one. Reputable retailers label the reproductions correctly. Genuine parts (scopes, mounts etc.) far outnumber reproductions on sites like EBAY

The main reason for choosing a genuine PU is, at one time in its life, it met a specific standard of accuracy. It may still be capable of the same standard or it may not; you won't know until you buy it. Reproductions were made from common service rifles which are generally capable of a lesser standard of accuracy. A genuine PU was capable of ~1.25 inches at 100 yds. A small number of ordinary Mosins can shoot 2.5 inches or better at 100 yds; the majority are closer to 4" and quite a few won't do 6 inches.
A worn PU has a better chance of accuracy than a reproduction but all are "used" and there is no guarantee.
What is true for a Mosin PU is true for all firearms. Putting a scope, even a powerful one, on an inaccurate rifle doesn't do anything except let you see the inaccuracy more easily.
 
Diopter is indeed the one who fixed the windage on mine! Near that large screw in the scope mount there is a metal stud that must be ground down to centre the scope properly, we used the iron sights and the scope windage set to zero to do this, but it is pretty obvious the scope is not straight before you grind it. I think this is necessary as not all rifles and mounts will fit the same so they expect you to do it. Very simple, just make sure not to take off too much...

The pictures I linked are a repro from west rifle, and show what you get: a mosin, a scope mount, a bayonet (not shown) and a new manufacture pu scope. (no muzzle brake obviously). The wood cutting is a bit rough but can be easily smoothed down, the holes into the receiver are fine and have not caused any problems. Trigger is "ok" so far as mosins go (not saying much). Scope appears to be very robust, and the gun shoots very well (only been able to test to 50m). Bore is shiny. Obviously I have no idea if all their stuff is like that.

As others have pointed out you need to be very careful if you want a real sniper. From what I have been told they have long since been shot to #### and the scopes seals etc have failed, so it would be mostly for collection purposes. They were (apparently) just regular mosins with a scope slapped on anyway (apparently they selected the ones that shot better) so modern repro's are not far off what the Russians put out anyway.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/93cayqnqu6c4u4f/AACSsNPRalW3MLx7H4O2ZFc7a?dl=0

HAHA nice pu sniper you got there. I think i will get a repro pu just for shooting, u got the point.:cheers:
 
Also it depends if you want a original one or one of the reproduction ones as sold by most dealers.

If you want a original be sure to check that they have the proper WW2 Highwall receivers and stocks, original and not repro scope mounts, some of which are cast from cheap metal unlike the forged and machined originals and have original WW2 dated scopes.

Most repro's Mosin sniper rifles comes with post war made reproduction PU Sniper scopes. Post war newly made repro scope mounts can be made out of machined steel like the original ones but some are cheap aluminum or cast metal copies.

Also most newer repro Mosin snipers are marked on the receiver with the importers and post war assembly company name and model type and this detracts from true collector rifles.

Very few dealers sell real Mosin Sniper rifles. Molot marked ones are generally regarded as real deal ones that they resold from military and police storage. One of the easiest way to tell if it is a real WW2 sniper is to look at the scopes date of manufacture and if the scope's serial number is matched to the rifle and stamped onto its receiver.


I have learned a lot from your post. Thank you!!!
 
Genuine PU Mosins outnumber reproductions in the retail market at the moment but the tip concerning the turret screws (dome vs. flat) is a good one. Reputable retailers label the reproductions correctly. Genuine parts (scopes, mounts etc.) far outnumber reproductions on sites like EBAY

The main reason for choosing a genuine PU is, at one time in its life, it met a specific standard of accuracy. It may still be capable of the same standard or it may not; you won't know until you buy it. Reproductions were made from common service rifles which are generally capable of a lesser standard of accuracy. A genuine PU was capable of ~1.25 inches at 100 yds. A small number of ordinary Mosins can shoot 2.5 inches or better at 100 yds; the majority are closer to 4" and quite a few won't do 6 inches.
A worn PU has a better chance of accuracy than a reproduction but all are "used" and there is no guarantee.
What is true for a Mosin PU is true for all firearms. Putting a scope, even a powerful one, on an inaccurate rifle doesn't do anything except let you see the inaccuracy more easily.

Real deal genuine Mosin snipers also tend to have much tighter bores, I have had 2 and one had a .3095 bore and the other a .310 bore between the grooves. Most run of the mill infantry issue Mosin's run somewhere between .311 to .316 and shoot bigger groups because of this reason, plus the average conscripted peasant infantryman never looked after his rifle as well as the much better trained snipers whose life depended on not making as many shots to draw return fire on their often isolated position.
 
Molot rifles were legit - refub'd snipers.

These recent Tulsky markings use original components but my question is are they old refurb'd snipers or newly refurb'd for the commercial market? Any of these new imports have the scope mount serial number scrubbed off the proper location (left barrel) and re-stamped on the left receiver (forced matched). Why and when? Original PU, PE and PEM all had the mounts matched to a serial number stamped on the left barrel. As stated these recent rifles have had those markings removed - so probably legit snipers but forced matched. When and why? Who knows - but I think they are finishing off rifles recently from parts.
 
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