Over the holidays, I bought a Mosin sniper variant (last one in stock at Al Flaherty's at the time) and I'm wondering if anybody else here has experience working with pu scopes. basically I'm trying to understand how the scope works and is it just me or does the reticle move around a lot when adjusting to the point where the lines are uneven. Also, any other pointers I should know when using this scope would be grateful, thanks.
mosin nagant scope newbie help
- Thread starter mr_nuts31
- Start date
The Russians were nothing if not wonderfully crude with PU scopes. If you're wondering if it's normal for the reticle to move, yes. Ideally the scope tube itself should be centered in a way that it lines up perfectly with your bore so you don't need to fidgit with the windage. However, things get bumped, taken off and then not put back in exactly as they should etc. I'm sure you know all about that being in Pett. You may need to shim a bit if it's not on center.
Here's some good info on the subject ht tp://www.mosinnagant.net/sniper%20section/mosin-nagant-sighting.asp
Hopefully I undershood the question properly.
Cheers, Al
Here's some good info on the subject ht tp://www.mosinnagant.net/sniper%20section/mosin-nagant-sighting.asp
Hopefully I undershood the question properly.
Cheers, Al
- Location
- Parksville Vancouver Island
Yep sounds like she has got to get shimmed.
This is why I am on the hunt right now to make a rail mount that will require no drill and tapping and no modification to the bolt. Plus no need for a 4 inch cheek riser. Also I am in contact with a U.S. rifle stock company about opening up a new stock for this rifle system in Canada and no it's not plastic but will still look damm cool or if you like the clasic wood stock well it will be offered in that too...
If you would like I will post up on my project once it has been completed.
Buba be dammed
This is why I am on the hunt right now to make a rail mount that will require no drill and tapping and no modification to the bolt. Plus no need for a 4 inch cheek riser. Also I am in contact with a U.S. rifle stock company about opening up a new stock for this rifle system in Canada and no it's not plastic but will still look damm cool or if you like the clasic wood stock well it will be offered in that too...
If you would like I will post up on my project once it has been completed.
Buba be dammed
Yep sounds like she has got to get shimmed.
This is why I am on the hunt right now to make a rail mount that will require no drill and tapping and no modification to the bolt. Plus no need for a 4 inch cheek riser. Also I am in contact with a U.S. rifle stock company about opening up a new stock for this rifle system in Canada and no it's not plastic but will still look damm cool or if you like the clasic wood stock well it will be offered in that too...
If you would like I will post up on my project once it has been completed.
Buba be dammed
Brass stacker makes a scout scope mount that from what I hear is way better than the simple chinese things on E-bay. Me, I'm a bit of a purist, but it sounds like you're going to modify your rifle in a way that it can be reversed with nothing permanent, so I don't have to shed a tear
one thing I did find interesting was this scope mount shown here http://kalinkaoptics.com/mounts/other-mosin-mauser/pu-mosin-nagant-side-mount-for-original-pu-rails-26-5mm-rings-1.html that fits on the original rail, but the comes the question of what scope to attach to.
ghostntheshell
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- GTA ONTARIO
I'd be careful ordering from them. I ordered a mount for a Russian 22 I had. The mount was rusted slightly, and the screws provided stripped so easily it was if they were made of pewter.
When I told them the mount was rusty - they said it wasn't their fault, they just sell them. The screws were the same story. They told me to compensate me for the rusted mount, they would discount a future order for me.
That's just my experience. I am sure others will speak yay or nay depending on their own experiences.
To the OP:
You may either need to shim or grind - depending on if the windage is too far left or right. As mentioned, once upon a time, the scope was fitted to the rifle in such a manner that no drastic windage adjustments would be needed.
I got lucky and my repro PU lined up with minimal windage - so no shimming or grinding was required. With my original PU scope I also required no grinding or shimming.
You can easily tell by doing a bore sighting - this will give you a rough idea. For a more precise measurement - put some rounds on paper.
Word to the wise: When grinding - do small incriments at a time.
