Mossberg 395K Bolt-Action

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Alright, so I was originally looking for a pump, but I walked into a firearms store today and ended up walking out with this thing instead. I know, it's probably not much of a gun, but the pros are:

Adjustable choke (improved cylinder to full);
Accepts 3" shells;
2 round magazine;
Decent condition;
Really cheap ($100).

The major drawback is the action... it's a bit stiff when cocking, and you have to align the bolt yourself when closing the action, otherwise it won't go in. But, I think some sort of rail bolted to the stock (just behind/below the bolt) will keep the bolt in line when working the action, and the stiffness is just something I'll have to get used to.

Now, anybody have any experiance with this particular model? Anyone know if I can (eventually) use this barrel on a different Mossy, perhaps a pump from the same era? After doing a bit of reading apparently some people have an issue with ejection of spent shells, but I'll see how it handles tommorow... and how much it kicks.

Unfortunately, I can't locate the camera, so pictures of mine will have to wait till tomorrow... here's a couple internet images though:

model395k.jpg

ex-model-395k.jpg
 
mags are 20-40 dollars IF you can find them, i MIGHT have one laying around here.

good guns albeit a little on the heavy side but they are a lot of fun and are accurate.

the choke is called a polly choke, most guys cut theres off to make it a slug gun
 
Thanks for replies... I was unsure what people would think of this one, but it looks alright to me.

Reid: Thanks for the tip on the name, I didn't know that... the choke itself doesn't look all that great, as it's just some slits cut lengthwise in the barrel, with an oversized nut on the end, but I suspect I'd be able to shoot lead slugs if I either loosen the choke nut or take it off completely. Either way, I'll probably cut it down sometime in the future, after I get a pump I like.
 
reid134 said:
mags are 20-40 dollars IF you can find them, i MIGHT have one laying around here.

good guns albeit a little on the heavy side but they are a lot of fun and are accurate.

the choke is called a polly choke, most guys cut theres off to make it a slug gun
Click to expand...

why??? just open up the choke to improved cylender:confused:
 
i dont know why they would cut them off, dedecated slug gun i guess. i use mine for trap once a year.

kicks like a mule, and i love it.
 
Reid: You've got one yourself? Do you notice the cocking to be a bit difficult? Any idea if it's possible to loosen up the pressure on the firing pin? I mean, I know it requires a certain amount of force, and I know how to use a bolt-action, but this seems a bit rediculous...

As an aside, I stripped it down partway to give it a proper clean, and it looks to me like the choke is actually separate to the barrel, and attached there somehow... I can't tell if it's threaded or welded or some sort of press-fit though. Would be good to know for the future, in case I decide to shorten the barrel, as it may be possible to refit the polly choke to a shortened barrel...
 
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Gallen: Will do, I'll post a pic of it tomorrow when I get pictures of the rest of the shotgun... I know the gun is chambered for 3" shells, so the mag probably holds them. The one I've got holds two rounds, and the case is made of folded steel (with the seam along the bottom and back), with a wierd folded bracket on one end. The top of the mag is also cut at an angle, with one end slightly lower than the other. But, I'll post a pic tomorrow...
 
I've got 2 of them - 12ga and .410. Both work fine tho they don't have much class. The mag is good for loading quickly which I have to do now and then.
 
I had the 20ga M385K model that I picked up for $120 about ten years ago. All the other features were like the 12ga.

Pros:

For someone on a budget who only had a full choked Mossberg 500, it gave me something that I could use for upland game.

I sighted the gun in for slugs at the UofT Range (those were the days!) and took it out for one afternoon of a controlled hunt in the Halton Regional Forest.

I was reasonably proficient at hitting clays with it.

Cons:

Further to the speed of reloading, I once discovered that when trying to work a shell in the chamber, the jostling of the bolt can release the firing pin, which left me with a shell that was blown out at the sides, just in front of the chamber. The front of the cartridge had just entered the chamber, so all of the shot and wad went out of the barrel, but it sure left me wondering about the safety of the gun. I had fired several boxes of 20 shells out of the gun on clays with no problem, but from then on if the round didn't load, I was careful not to play with the action.

I sold the shotgun later when I needed funds, but a few years afterwards read about a recall of Mossberg's slug gun which I believe was based on the same action. The reason for the recall was the possibility of the firing pin discharging a round out of battery.

Conclusion:

If I hadn't an open choked gun for upland hunting, wanted an older shotgun that could be used with steel shot for waterfowl (i.e. using it no tighter than modified, probably improved cylinder) or wanted a slug gun and couldn't afford purchasing a rifled barrel/shotgun, I'd take one of these in good condition for the right price (not much more than $100).

I've seen several Stevens Model 77b shotguns (pump action, Savage Choke, 2.75" shells) on the EE in the past year for anywhere from $90 to $160, purchasing one in pretty good shape for $150, followed later by another for $90. I expect to sell one of these at the cost I paid to one of several friends that I've recently gotten licenced for their PAL and hunting card. The other will probably be a canoe gun and maybe used for various upland and jackrabbits. I'd pick these over the M395 if available but otherwise think the bolt action can be a good utility gun for the right price.

Regards,

Frank

PS. I would naturally reiterate the value of using eye protection when shooting one of these!
 
Frank: That's really good information to hear... I'll have to keep that in the back of my mind when I'm shooting, as I don't want to lose any fingers (or anything else, for that matter). I was going to ask about specifics, but I just checked the Mossberg website, and they've only got two models listed under recalls, neither of which are this particular one... Mossberg recalls... Hopefully that means that this one should be fine, although I will keep an eye on it. It's a bit shocking to think that there are so many possible sources of injury with our firearms that are not regularly considered... Perhaps I'll leave the firing pin spring alone and just learn to live with the stiffness...

Cyclone: Haven't heard that one yet, but it seems that people constantly experiance issues related to loading and ejection, although none (save for Frank's unfortunate episode) related to firing and reliability. I suppose they were built to handle repeated abuse, and I think they're really only a glorified version of a side-by-side (then again, what isn't?). It might make a good truck/emergency gun eventually...
 
I had a 185D, which is similar but a 20ga with Mossbergs D-tachable chokes instead of the poly choke (Mossberg calls it a C-lett ckoke). It had the same issue as Cyclones. I was able to fix it by putting a shim between the mag latch and the action. The stiff bolt opening/cocking is normal, I don't think there is much you can do about it. Recoil with 2-3/4" 20ga loads was about the same as 2-3/4" 12ga loads out of a 12ga pump, but mine didn't have a recoil pad. It ended up sitting in the safe taking up space after I bought a pump action, so I traded it to my dad for an old sporterized Enfield. He's still using it as a varmint gun.

Jim
 
Jim: Thanks for the idea on the shim... I find that my mag is a bit loose in the front, so that it hangs a bit lower than it should. I haven't cycled any round through it yet, as I haven't been to the range and I'm not keen on using live ammunition at home, but I've heard reports that shells can get caught on edge of the feeding ramp if the mag isn't held in properly. I might try shimming the top, and hopefully it'll hold in properly.

As for the stiff bolt: I suspect that mine is stiffer than most people's, as it's really hard to lift the bolt handle all the way up... it goes fine most of the way, but it seems to catch just before it goes up all the way. However, I suspect the problem is a bit of an indent in the "ramp" that the firing pin stud (very technical terms, I know) slides along during cocking...

Bolt%20Lower.JPG


Bolt%20Lower%2002.JPG


I'd like to fix it, and I'm wondering if something like a bit of JB weld or solder put in that spot, then filed down, would work...

I'm also considering taking dremel to the back of the reciever and angling this slot a bit where the green circles are, to give a bit more room for the bolt to align itself when loading a shell...

Reciever%20Rear.JPG
 
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I have hunted with one for 40 years. Shoots straight and deadly accurate with the full sights. Always liked the choke. When hunting in thick woods I would open it up to improved cylinder for quick shots at ruffed grouse. When walking in the fields you can quickly change it to full choke for longer shots at rabbits. The only problem I ever had was occasional jamming when I tried to cycle shells through it too quick.
Rick M.
 
I have one!!

Fun gun, kick isn't that bad, and the rifle sights are great!!
As for the bolt, don't be gentle with it. It only likes it rough!!!!

and for mags:

h ttp://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=67990A&chrSuperSKU=67990&MC=

I've even had a buddy shoot double traps with it and hit both targets.
If you get enough practice you can do well with it.
 
I must say I'm liking the response to this firearm... didn't expect it to have such a following.

I've decided to use JB Weld to fill in the indent, then file it down. I know the bolt comes apart, but I'm concerned with damaging it irreversably, so I've emailed Havlin Sales & Service about some small parts for the bolt, mostly the sear pin and striker spring. I may have to drill the pin out, as it doesn't seem to want to come out by just bashing it with a hammer. If worse comes to worst, and Havlin doesn't have the parts, then I'll measure the diameter of the sear pin and get a piece of steel rod to fit.

EDIT: Success! I managed to get the sear pin out with screwdriver bit and a few well placed blows from a hammer... I relieved the pressure on the sear pin by removing the bolt head, placing a small nut (off a bolt) over the striker pin, then replacing the bolt head. This forced the striker back just enough. I lined the sear pin up with a hole on one side of the bolt and used a #18 Torx bit to bash it out... the bit fit perfectly in the hole and was short enough not to wobble while I hit it with a hammer. The sear pin slid out, and I managed to gently pull the striker and spring out from the rear portion of the bolt. All that's left is to degrease the bolt, apply some JB Weld, and file it down. Pictures:

Mossberg%20Bolt%20Disassembled.JPG


Picture of the disassembled bolt... from left to right: Bolt head, striker, sear pin (top) and Torx bit (bottom), striker spring, rear bolt section, and safety parts. The nut I used to relieve the pressure is under the striker pin.

Mossberg%20Bolt%20Sear%20Closeup.JPG


A close-up of the fitment of the sear pin... the Torx bit is at the bottom, striker just above it, sear pin over that, and the rear section of the bolt at the top. You can see the hole I used to get the sear pin out in the bolt section.

Anybody have any recommendations on a good degreaser that I could use on the bolt? I'm considering some sort of automotive engine degreaser, but I'd like to avoid anything that has to get washed off after, as I don't want to use water on the bolt and have it rust...
 
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I used to have a 195K-A and a 395K. Both were excellent and accurate shotguns. I found that they swung well even for clays. If they had made these in left hand I'd be a very happy man.
 
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