Mould Question

Will somebody tell me just WHAT is wrong with a Lee mould?

I have been using them for close to 30 years now, with good results.

If there is some huge reason that they are held in popular disdain, I would really like to hear it.

I just wish they made a nice .446-385 for my Mouser.
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smellie said:
Will somebody tell me just WHAT is wrong with a Lee mould?

I have been using them for close to 30 years now, with good results.

If there is some huge reason that they are held in popular disdain, I would really like to hear it.

I just wish they made a nice .446-385 for my Mouser.
.
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I too have many that I have been using for several years alongside the "good" molds. It appears that the main problem is that they are inexpensive and readily available.
 
They are cheap and fall apart, the materials are cheap, aluminum is very soft, in some cases too soft to hold the sprue plate screw without stripping those threads. Too soft an aluminum promotes galling on the mold surfaces esp at the same sprue plate screw, although Bullplate lube does help alot. On six cavities, the sprue plate handle breaks quickly esp. when using hard alloys, this same handle bears on soft alum. side of mold causing aluminum to "flatten". Users need to drill and tap for a set screw to prevent sprue plate screw from moving, because once it moves, it strips the threads. Trying to tighten or loosen the screw usually busts the head off the screw, as the screw are made of aluminum I believe. The holes in the sprue plate don't stay sharp for long to cut sprues as the top plate is made of aluminum as well.
 
Red River rick....I have no knowledge of the mold manufacturer, my understanding is that it was made in Sask. not Man., none of this is my business even, I was just trying to give an honest impression of my limited use of someones else's mold. I certainly don't want my customers name dragged into this as he is a friend as well. This mold is for an old time cal./ that was /is only used with the softest of alloys including pure lead, so making a mold that has it's dimensions based on the hardest of alloys doesn't make sense either.
 
Cooter: I hope you appreciate this, I tried all my handles on a Saeco mold...I've never tried this as i always use Saeco handles, only Lee six cavity handles and Saeco fit. The RCBS handles would fit but the holes are too small, lyman's holes are too small as well and also would require some thinning to fit. IMHO
 
ben hunchak said:
They are cheap and fall apart, the materials are cheap, aluminum is very soft, in some cases too soft to hold the sprue plate screw without stripping those threads. Too soft an aluminum promotes galling on the mold surfaces esp at the same sprue plate screw, although Bullplate lube does help alot. On six cavities, the sprue plate handle breaks quickly esp. when using hard alloys, this same handle bears on soft alum. side of mold causing aluminum to "flatten". Users need to drill and tap for a set screw to prevent sprue plate screw from moving, because once it moves, it strips the threads. Trying to tighten or loosen the screw usually busts the head off the screw, as the screw are made of aluminum I believe. The holes in the sprue plate don't stay sharp for long to cut sprues as the top plate is made of aluminum as well.
Click to expand...

I have lee molds that are almost forty years old that still cast excellent bullets after casting thousands of linotype and wheel weight bullets. I kept them maintained as per the lee instructions.
I have NOT had a lee mold "fall apart" and I have repaired a significant number of lyman and RCBS molds that have had alignment pin problems.
My experience with lee six cavity molds is limited as I have only cast a few thousand bullets in 9mm but that mold has not had an issue (yet?).

Yes there are improvements that can be made to some of the lee molds but I have found that treated with respect and gentle hands they last a long time and cast a quality bullet.
 
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