Moulds for Norc m14s/m1a?

Have two on the go...though not much in the results department yet:

Ranch Dog TLC311-165-RF...have to water drop it to prevent big-time nose deformation due to the HUGE meplat..

Lee C309-200-R....works great in all my other 'normal' .30s

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LET THE BULLET ENGRAVE THE RIFLING!!! Even if you use milspec primers it is essential that the bullet not contact the lands when the bolt comes into battery.....slamfires suck :)
 
I have most of the Lee .309-.312 molds and have loaded some of them. Don't have the loads handy but even mild stuff cycled the stock rifle fine.
 
Lee C309-150-F mold (159gr lubed and checked) wheel weight alloy

22gr IMR 4198. I don't recall accuracy as I haven't shot this lately but I believe it was on paper at 100yd.

IMR 4198 20-26.6gr max (Lyman Cast Bullet 4th) with Lee 150gr cast .308 Win
(IMR 4198 is not usually a powder used for regular power M14/M1 loads)

I also shot this with reduced IMR 4064 don't remember results.
 
Anyone try the Lyman 311644?

Looks like it would feed nicely with less chance of slam firing if I'm not mistaken. Is it not mentioned much for any other reason than that it is new?
 
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I don't believe bullet shape will affect slam fires in the M14 (which can occur). You are thinking of out of battery firing (which also can occur). That is when the bolt is almost closed but not locked up and fires.
 
Don't reinvent the wheel--- > cast bullets in 308/ m1a m305, m14
Check out
ht tp://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=3558

the originator of that thread has several Thousand cast bullets down the barrel of his m1a

I shoot cast in a norinco

the worst thing you can do in a semi is

1)if the nose is too long/big and touches before the bolt is closed
(slamfire/open bolt fire)

2)use the wrong powder
3)use too much of the correct powder (leading inaccuracy)

Hints Facts on cast bullets that one of my friends has given me and has taken more time than any other rifle I have loaded for
4)
1/10"
With this twist using 150 gr cast you will have trouble maintaining accuracy at an acceptable level (upwards of 1950 fps) while maintaining 100% functional reliability. Reason being by the time there is sufficient gas port pressure for functional reliability the fps will be above 2000 fps.

Functional reliability can be had with medium burning powders and very good accuracy with the 170 - 200 gr bullets in the 1800 - 1950 fps range. Given a well fitting bullet of appropriate alloy and design the RPM threshold is going to be in the 1900 - 2000 fps range with this 10" twist. Accuracy will begin to deteriorate once the bullet crosses it's RPM threshold.

Slow burning powders can be used with the 200 gr bullets but ignition consistency can be a problem if velocities are to be kept under 1950 fps (about where the RPM threshold will be with a 10" twist, a good load and good cast bullets).

1/12" twist;
The RPM threshold for this twist will allow (given appropriate bullet fit, alloy and powder) very good accuracy upwards of 2200+ fps, sometimes 2300 - 2400 fps if all is right on. Thus functional reliability can be had with medium burning powders with all of the bullets mentioned including the 150s. However, the slower "medium" burning powders up through RL19 or AA4350 will probably give better accuracy above 1900 fps than say, 4895 or 3031. I find the RCBS 168 gr silhouette bullet or Lyman's 311299 to be very good bullets for higher end 7.62 loads in milspec chambered M1As with 12" twists.

I do every thing you should not do
I shoot cast
I neck size (with the odd full length/aneal thrown in) 10-20 loading on the same set of 50 brass
During the summer I shot 400 cast rounds with out cleaning and it was still clean
 
rtracer13 said:
Anyone try the Lyman 311644?
Click to expand...

Not a expert but i would buy this only after testing a dummy round
sounds like a excellent round for a bolt gun with a long throat
but what I have read it could have a large nose.
Maybe not a large nose (when you measure it)
but with being cast at more than 190g the weight has to go somewhere.

You either stick it out front or seat it deep in the case
the m14's were throated for 150-168g jacketed rounds

If you have this mould/bullet you could make up a dummy and try it
 
just having some fun said:
Not a expert but i would buy this only after testing a dummy round
sounds like a excellent round for a bolt gun with a long throat
but what I have read it could have a large nose.
Maybe not a large nose (when you measure it)
but with being cast at more than 190g the weight has to go somewhere.

You either stick it out front or seat it deep in the case
the m14's were throated for 150-168g jacketed rounds

If you have this mould/bullet you could make up a dummy and try it
Click to expand...

Ya don't have the mold but was considering using it with a faster burning powder like RL-15.
Had real success with the copper plated rounds and RL-15, and unless I've got my theory mixed up (new to the casting game) a faster burning powder would cycle the semi more reliably
 
rtracer13 said:
Ya don't have the mold but was considering using it with a faster burning powder like RL-15.
Had real success with the copper plated rounds and RL-15, and unless I've got my theory mixed up (new to the casting game) a faster burning powder would cycle the semi more reliably
Click to expand...

Looked in the Lyman Book
Looked at 20-25 different rifle (Cal) loads Did not see Alliant RL-15
Alliant site quote Similar burn speed to IMR 4350 with added velocity.

I have read of people using 4350 with cast but it is not near the top of the list.

you do not want velocity with cast the max max max velocity for any round from 223 to 45-70 including stuff smaller and including the belted magnums is app 2500 fps
every thing has to be perfect , barrel twist, alloy, powder, pressure, bullet shape, lube etc.etc unless you are paper patching

with a semi the most important thing to getting the action working correctly is port pressure, when and only when that bullet passes the gas port
too high and you bend/ break things.
too low and you get jams/non extraction/not picking up rounds

if you read my comments about barrel twist and velocity
if your rifle has a 1/10 twist, if you were using a bullet 130g to 210g (if they would fit) the fastest you could push it is 1800-1900 fps
the lower weight bullets never build enough pressure to work the action

Just a note to people thinking about cast, some powders are position sensitive so a 30 cal 150g bullet with powder XYZABC in
30-30 is 15g
308 is 17g
30-06 is 22g
300 win mag 23g
so all the above loads the powder charge just rattles around in the case

to get powder to be not position sensitive a filler must be used and a bit of research needs to be done because some powders do not need a filler
some powders can be dangerous with a filler etc etc.

I have used 5 different powders in the 308 with 3 different bullet weights
and have had different problems.
I have kept velocity down and the worst leading I had came out with one pass of a brass brush

worst target --> could not get a group at 100yds 8x11in target
thought scope was gone (velocity too high)

loose primer pockets after 2 firings (presure up there --> 5" group at 100 5 rounds brass taking a beating with full function

the load I am working on I think is it --- for one bullet weight
 
Some people are now wondering about my group size, my last trip to the club
@ 100
the first load of a increment load, --- 5 shot group of was 4-3/4 inch (was the worst)

my last increment load (5 rounds loaded only) of the box of 50, I did a 5 shot 2-3/8 group--
could have been a fluke, next trip going to try to do it again
3 of the 5 rounds could be covered with a quarter

On top of it I forgot my rear bag at home, if that was a good thing or a bad thing I do not know

going to do some 10 round groups then I will Know
not even sure what will happen when it gets warmer 70-80-90-100 deg f
 
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