Mount and Rings recommendation

CanadianPackRat

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I recently traded for a Savage 10 in 308 with the 24 inch heavy barrel.

It came with the factory 2 piece mount.

Is there an advantage between using a two piece mount vs a 1 piece?

What should I look for in a set of rings? The scope I plan on using is a 8-32x44 Nikko Sterling Targetmaster.
 
CanadianPackRat said:
So the one piece mounts are better than a two piece?

I think so one soild piece or two piece's....(I would rather have one piece that is held down with four screws then two hel with two)


and if your rifle is a tad off you can mount the front first and then shim or bed the rear;)


I like Mark4 Rings and bases,Farrell(but they are a Tad hight)

TPS is good stuuf

I am going to try Warne Tactical 20MOA bases on my LTR(I have heard many good things about them)

Jamie Barkwell
 
In theory, a one piece base has advantages. In practice, the bases that came with your rifle will work fine. Any brand name rings will mount your scope. Milletts are nice because of the built in windage adjustment. Burris rings are fine quality. There are lots to choose form. Be careful shimming bases; this can throw the rings out of alignment and tweak the scope tube. Really, it boils down to how much money you want to spend. If you are planning on long range shooting, your scope may not have enough internal elevation adjustment. A sloped base can be used; for a lot less money so can Burris rings with the eccentric bushings.
 
Leupold, Burris, Redfield mounts with the opposed rear screws can also bend scope tubes. The nice thing about the Burris signatures with their inserts is that rough windage adjustment can be made with the rear screws, but the inserts allow the scope tube to assume a neutral position, without stresses being placed on the scope. Care needs to be taken when installing a scope, if for no other reason than avoiding ring marks on the tube. It is not unusual to find that when a scope is mounted there isn't enough internal adjustment to permit zeroing. Probably a result of stacked tolerances. This is when it is particularly useful to have some adjustment built into the base or rings.
 
thats why it is always best to buy the better brands and hope your gun is in spec


Jamie Barkwell
 
Cheap mounts are no bargain. No matter how good the rings and base system are though, the rifle itself may have problems. That's why installation has to be done carefully and thoughtfully. I mounted a lot of scopes for customers, and serious problems are not all that uncommon. Its interesting that it is not unusual for the rings to be lapped in on even the most expensive mount systems.
It would be an interesting experiment to take a premium base/ring set and assemble them. Lightly lap the rings. Torque the base onto a receiver, apply machinist's blue to the rings, and lightly relap them. I wonder if there would be a detectable difference.
 
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Because this is the precision rifle forum, and scopes on target rifles tend to be large, I would recommend a one piece picatinny rail base. This base gives the shooter a great deal of latitude as to where to place the scope for the optimal eye relief.
 
I lap all my rings....

I would be super pissed if I mounted a $1800 scope and dented the tube


Jamie Barkwell
 
I think Brownells sells lapping kits. A lap is essentially a cylinder of the correct diameter with some grooves to hold the abrasive compound. A handle is mounted at 90 degrees.
The Remington 700 is perhaps the most widely used action for precision rifles. The receivers are mass produced, and heat treated after machining. A bit of warpage can occur. A 40X has some machining done after heat treatment to reduce this. Take a steel straight edge and apply it to the bottom of the receiver; you may be able to see curvature; or mount the receiver on a mandrel and turn it over on centres. If a stock with a machined bedding block is used, the receiver may not fit properly, and some bedding compound may be necessary. Or the receiver may be mounted on a mandrel, and the bottom trued up. The first time I did this, I was amazed at how much material was removed to true up the bottom of the receiver. Now if the bottom of the receiver is warped, the top will be as well. If the top of the receiver isn't true, torquing down a mount is going to stress the mount, receiver, or both. Lapping the rings should reduce stress on the scope. I suppose that ideally the mount and receiver should be fitted to each other. This is why I like the Burris signature rings. Even if the receiver and/or base and/or rings are misaligned, the scope can still be mounted without it being stressed. Kelbley benchrest rings use metal inserts to allow the scope to be floated. The serious precision actions - and there are many - are machined so that the barrel, bolt, and receiver are aligned.
 
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