Mouse fart recipes

Well we've got a few entries in he cook book to get us started :) Thanks!

Still looking to fill in the gaps though. Anyone got reduced load recipes for .243? .270? .303? .308? 30-06? 7mm? 7.62x39? 7.62x54?

Oh, and Happy New Year!

Not a recipe exactly but I did find that a 7.62x39 case with a .310 roundball and just a primer would get about 300 fps over the chronograph with a Winchester primer .
 
I have a whack of Trail Boss and H4895 reduced recipes in my books... always have a few reduced loads on me for small game and pests. Two of my favorites are using the 45 grain Hornet bullet in .223 and .22/250, 4.0 gr. TB and 10.0 gr. TB, respectively. Interesting tidbit, is that in both rifles with 20" and 18.5" barrels, and the scopes zeroed at 100 yards with full power loads, the POI of the reduced loads is bang on at 20 yards... makes hunting eyeballs a breeze.
 
Not a recipe exactly but I did find that a 7.62x39 case with a .310 roundball and just a primer would get about 300 fps over the chronograph with a Winchester primer .


Interesting. No concerns of lodging it in the barrel? I wonder what difference you would see with the Winchester primer vs a surplus corrosive primer. I've heard somewhere that the corrosive primers have a bigger "pop" but that could just be hearsay?

300fps pushing a 54 grain piece of 00buck isn't bad... It's the ballistic equivalent of Wrong Way's "marble and slingshot" method, except penetration would be a little better due to similar mass, but a third of the cross section area.

I suppose barrel length would factor prominently. How long was your barrel? I wouldn't want to go any longer.

Any idea on grouping (if any)?


Oh! Edited to add:

Semi or bolt? Because that would make a significant difference in the volume of space that the primer gasses have to fill and push the ball.
 
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I have a whack of Trail Boss and H4895 reduced recipes in my books... always have a few reduced loads on me for small game and pests. Two of my favorites are using the 45 grain Hornet bullet in .223 and .22/250, 4.0 gr. TB and 10.0 gr. TB, respectively. Interesting tidbit, is that in both rifles with 20" and 18.5" barrels, and the scopes zeroed at 100 yards with full power loads, the POI of the reduced loads is bang on at 20 yards... makes hunting eyeballs a breeze.

Thanks hc. I edited your quote a bit when I pasted it to Post 2 so I could break out the 2 different calibers. Let me know if I screwed anything up on you.

KJ
 
Interesting. No concerns of lodging it in the barrel? I wonder what difference you would see with the Winchester primer vs a surplus corrosive primer. I've heard somewhere that the corrosive primers have a bigger "pop" but that could just be hearsay?

300fps pushing a 54 grain piece of 00buck isn't bad... It's the ballistic equivalent of Wrong Way's "marble and slingshot" method, except penetration would be a little better due to similar mass, but a third of the cross section area.

I suppose barrel length would factor prominently. How long was your barrel? I wouldn't want to go any longer.

Any idea on grouping (if any)?


Oh! Edited to add:

Semi or bolt? Because that would make a significant difference in the volume of space that the primer gasses have to fill and push the ball.

the Winchester primers were the best federal was a close second . I did try some steel case Czech surplus with just the primer these were down around 200 fps and did lodge the occasional ball in the barrel .
I did load some cast pistol bullets .lyman 313445 . over 3 grains of green dot . went 850fps over the chrono .but I never persued them any farther
this was out of a 20 inch sks barrel. I never grouped any of these . the roundball loads were not very accurate as I remember but my sks has a .313 bore so no suprises there . I have plinked a little bit with the pistol bulllets .they seem ok but never put them on paper . they cast at .314 so they are a better fit for the sks
 
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No reason one couldn't use .32 ACP or M1 carbine bullets in the 30 caliber rifles either...........Harold
 
The 90gr Hornady SWC comes in a bulk box and would also work in the 7.62x54R.I want to develop some grouse loads for my CZ 527 7.62x39 but don't have time this fall as I;m hunting and cutting up animals..Been too mild to hang game long here in AB....Speer also used to make a .30 caliber 1/2 jacket for the M1 carbine...the 32-40 and .32 WS bullets used are for the Japanese 8mm Nambo pistol..Harold
 
So I finally got around to trying one of these recipes.

The set up was:

.308
3gr of Universal (looked high and low for Trail Boss to no avail)
A 1/2 inch square of Dacron
And a 00 Buck pellet resized down to .308





After pounding the pellets through the resizer, they get flattened at one side and actually take on an ice little "bullet" shape. Weights ranged from 52gr to 58gr. They come out of the shell waxed too, which makes them nicer to work with.








I wasn't sure what the author meant by "a tuft" of Dacron, so I went with the smallest amount I could , that would hold the powder at the bottom while I tried to shake it. 1/2" square seemed to be the winner. I'm sure a round cut would have been better, it I didn't have the patience.

Once seated (easily by hand) I put just the slightest of slight crimps on the bullet. A note though: the projectile is still basically round so when ejecting an unfired round, it has a chance to catch the soft lead and turn the "bullet" sideways in the shell.





The mouse farts grouped exactly 2 inches low at 10 yards (from a 18.5 barrel sighted in at 100 yards)

2.5 inches low at 20 yards.

4 inches low at 30 yards.

Group size at 20 yards was a little under an inch (same at 10 yards... go figure)







As for penetration:

The bullet went through three 1" cedar boards and left a dent in the fourth. Note how it doesn't seem to have deformed at all. The .22s all looked like key holes after the first 2 boards.

I fired a few other rounds for comparison:

.22CB 29gr went through 2 and stopped in board 3.

.22SubSonic 40gr went through 4 and stopped in 5.

.22lr 36gr went through 6 and stopped in 7.


Given that the mouse fart has almost exactly twice the head-on surface area as the .22s (and would thus not penetrate as easily per ftlbs) I'd venture to say that "knock down power" (if you believe in that) is pretty darn close to .22lr. Probably a touch less. But that's perfect for grouse and bunnies whilst big game hunting.


"Did the Dacron leave residue in the barrel?"

How'd I know you were going to ask that! Yeah, it did. Little plastic fuzzies. But they all came out after a quick wipe with a dry patch, and also when I fired a 168gr full power round through it. Bulls eye, so I doubt it affected the zero. But I only fired the one shot to see if it'd clean the barrel.

All in all, very pleased to have a new trick up my sleeve this season. :)
 
lee tl314-90-swc bullet,tumble lubed and seated in neck sized case over 5.5-7Gr(see what works best for you) of Trail Boss.I used this in 303 Brit,7.5 Swiss,7.62x54R,308Win and 7.65 Arg.
Depending on rifle it's super accurate up to maybe 60-70yrds.I'm told report is less than 22LR.

I tried same load with lyman 311410-works just fine but not as accurate as Lee.Feeds from mag way better thou.

Edit-just found this picture.Same bullet,different maker and in 30-30.
Hornady90grswc.jpg
 
Just a couple of things to add to this thread...

Straight walled cartridges such as .45-70 have an internal taper, different manufactures have different internal tapers, and projectiles can be seated down to that taper in turn reducing the volume underneath the projectile. There are a couple articles floating around the web on loading roundball in this manner. The reduced case volume compliments reduced powder charges. Best to try different makes, calculate the volume under the projectile, then load accordingly for a similar volume case. For example a .490 RB squished to .458 in a push through sizer, pushed into a certain brand case leaves a volume underneath similar to a .45 colt. Load accordingly for a starting point, using published data to target a speed.

There are a few reports of SEE with faster powders such as 2400, etc. in light loads and larger cases.

Also a primer only (no propellant) works fantastic with a really light projectile...spit balls, greasy cloth balls, "Gluelits".

Of course this is strictly at your own risk.

A good european read on the subject...and the safety of it...arcane knowledge... http://guns.connect.fi/gow/arcane1.html
 
kodiakjack, I'm new to sizing lead bullets, what kind of sizer is that?

Camster's correct.

Got mine for about $40

Pros:
-Simple
-Change power on the fly (from silent squirrel getter while in your deer stand to more powerful than a .22) depending on blank used

Cons:
-Reload time take about 30 seconds
-Not reliable with a needle point firing pin. (Doesn't hit the .22 rim primer well enough. 99% of guns work fine though)


I'm sure any machine shop could whip you up a resizer in minutes. It's just a tapered hole. But if they're gonna charge $50 bucks for it, might as well just get the Hammond game getter and get the whole kit.
 
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