MP5 Navy (like) 10/22

DsrtRat, that looks pretty awesome.

How does the 10/22 fit into the chassis, is the bottom open or does the chassis split?

I'm looking forward to the final product, it's going to be cool.

ps: adjustable...:rockOn:
 
It splits or clamshell's in the middle. To assemble it, u insert the action/barrel into the bottom and screw it in like any 10/22. The top half then drops onto the action and is fastened at the front and rear to the bottom piece. Then the stocks sights etc will be added on. I had to make a narrow pathway to slide the charging into the stock but black on black will make it almost invisible.

Once final shape is complete, i will mill out a lot of the bigger pieces to essentially make them hollow so that the gun does not weigh too much. I will be happy if it weighs about the same as a bare bones sr-22 when it is complete.
 
Not a huge update. Working on some of the smaller, more time consuming parts. I know some asked me to post some pics of the build in progress. I have 3 pics of the sight being made. I am using a small rotary table to create any round parts. For the sight, I had to cut the outside radius of the sight then hollow out the inside. The final product has sharp edges, tool marks and scratches but that is ok as I will sand then buff the entire gun before it goes for anodizing. The pics are pretty self explanatory.

sight1.jpg


sight2.jpg


sight3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks mike. I can't wait until it finished and i am able to shoot it. The toughest part now will be the adjustable stock and locking mechanism. My kingdom for a cnc machine;)

Already have another project on the drawing board.
 
Great work on your project. Having been there, done that with my Thompson build I know just what you're going through. I found the blast cabinet would take out the majority of machining marks. Having the tools opens up a whole new dimension to the word BUILD.
 
Having seen your work mb, i appreciate the comments. Being off sick from work has been driving me nuts and the mill has been a welcome distraction. My only problem now is i look at everything as a target for improvement.
 
Digital read out. It gives you the position of your table so you can make cuts based on math and measurements. Without it, i have to measure, make a mark on the piece, cut a bit, measure again and on it goes. With the dro, if i want to make a 1" channel in something, i find the centre, take into account the bit width and cut until the dro says i am at one inch. Saves huge amounts of time and makes for very accurate cuts.

Definately going to be installing one down the road.
 
Awesome work. I'm not a fan of the 10/22 (duck and dodge the rain of beer cans being thrown) but I love using them for replica projects. I've been fighting with an FAL clone project for months, I'd give my third leg for some proper milling equipment!
 
Digital read out. It gives you the position of your table so you can make cuts based on math and measurements. Without it, i have to measure, make a mark on the piece, cut a bit, measure again and on it goes. With the dro, if i want to make a 1" channel in something, i find the centre, take into account the bit width and cut until the dro says i am at one inch. Saves huge amounts of time and makes for very accurate cuts.

Definately going to be installing one down the road.

What's wrong with using your dials on the feeds?
 
Awesome work. I'm not a fan of the 10/22 (duck and dodge the rain of beer cans being thrown) but I love using them for replica projects. I've been fighting with an FAL clone project for months, I'd give my third leg for some proper milling equipment!

10/22, 597 same crap different pile.
Either would work in this application
 
ciphery, I use them a bit but have found just eying a precise line has worked well. There is a bit of backlash and I a not sure how that would come into play with going both directions on the dials.

Still learning the machine.

DEADMAN, any pics of your build? That looks like one that would be very interesting.
 
What's wrong with using your dials on the feeds?

Shortest answer, is that the dial markings tell you how far it should have moved, while a DRO will tell you how far it DID move.

Switching from inch to metric measurements on the fly is another benefit.

If you get the right DRO, there are a great number of other useful functions that can be built in, like bolt hole patterns, etc.

Cheers
Trev
 
Great job! I can see you now.... SCUBA equipment on all black, emerging from a lake with that thing pointing out first. NAVY SEAL! :D
 
trev, thats why i was leaning towards a dro as there is some 9not much0 but still some backlash. dro, like you said tells me how far it did not should have gone.

matt, that would be funny to see! i should leave it a polished aluminum for that street gangsta looking navy:cool: ( never!!!)

working on the sliding stock right now. All I can say is "pain in the butt". The tailpiece of the gun itself is complex with curves, angles and deep slots for the rails. Spend more time figuring out where to cut than cutting at this stage.

Pics to follow.
 
Back
Top Bottom