MPI stock for Ruger #1
- Thread starter Mad_Mikee
- Start date
I did up a few MPI stocks (on commercial Mausers) a few years back. My experience was they they cost less up front, are of good structural quality, but are a lot more work to finish. They had many little pits to fill and sand before the final finish went on.
I've never worked with B&C, but the ones I've looked at came fully finished, but still looked 'rough'. They might be all right, but they're sure not a McMillan by any stretch.
Structurally, I'd prefer the MPIs - in fact I've had an MPI on a very light .338 Win Mag for many years (and many hundreds of rounds) and never had any problems with it.
I've never worked with B&C, but the ones I've looked at came fully finished, but still looked 'rough'. They might be all right, but they're sure not a McMillan by any stretch.
Structurally, I'd prefer the MPIs - in fact I've had an MPI on a very light .338 Win Mag for many years (and many hundreds of rounds) and never had any problems with it.
- Location
- Whitehorse, Yukon
I've done two MPI stocks for Ruger #1's.
Fair amount of fitting and finishing but end result is extremely strong and much lighter than the original wood stock.
B&C have come a long way since their first glass stocks but still feel clunky and big proportioned. Great for a hard recoiling rifle but still homely looking.
Fair amount of fitting and finishing but end result is extremely strong and much lighter than the original wood stock.
B&C have come a long way since their first glass stocks but still feel clunky and big proportioned. Great for a hard recoiling rifle but still homely looking.
Used MPI's on P14/M17 projects and a couple of 600's. As mentioned, fair bit of finishing to do. Pretty good stock, all in all. - dan
There doesnt seem to be a lot of options for "non-wood" stocks for the Ruger #1.
I was considering getting a MPI blank and spending some time this winter as project working on it.
I dont mind filling pits and sanding or even installing swivel studs and a grind-to-fit recoil pad as long as the rough blank fits somewhat close.
My Ruger #1 is in donor-action phase right now meaning that the finish on the action isnt overly nice. This just seems like the time to fit a stock do it when I'm not overly concerned with scratching the action or having to coat it in release agent incase I need to work the fit with a new stock with some fiberglass.
The only concern I have with an MPI stock is that I'll get it and it'll require major fiberglass or dremel work to get it fitting at least semi-decent.
If it was for a bolt action gun I'd be less concerned as the actions drops into the stock rather than with a Ruger #1 where the stock has to precisely fit the action.
If a bolt action doesnt fit, dremel it out. If you take out too much, fill it with arcglass.
I'm guessing a much lower level of precision is required to fit a stock to a bolt action than a single shot falling block with a two piece stock.
I'm most interested to hear how close of a fit the blanks really are.
I've built plenty of things in the past with MDF, fiberglass matte and resin and cathair (fiberglass strands in a bondo like paste) but nothing that really required any precision.
I was considering getting a MPI blank and spending some time this winter as project working on it.
I dont mind filling pits and sanding or even installing swivel studs and a grind-to-fit recoil pad as long as the rough blank fits somewhat close.
My Ruger #1 is in donor-action phase right now meaning that the finish on the action isnt overly nice. This just seems like the time to fit a stock do it when I'm not overly concerned with scratching the action or having to coat it in release agent incase I need to work the fit with a new stock with some fiberglass.
The only concern I have with an MPI stock is that I'll get it and it'll require major fiberglass or dremel work to get it fitting at least semi-decent.
If it was for a bolt action gun I'd be less concerned as the actions drops into the stock rather than with a Ruger #1 where the stock has to precisely fit the action.
If a bolt action doesnt fit, dremel it out. If you take out too much, fill it with arcglass.
I'm guessing a much lower level of precision is required to fit a stock to a bolt action than a single shot falling block with a two piece stock.
I'm most interested to hear how close of a fit the blanks really are.
I've built plenty of things in the past with MDF, fiberglass matte and resin and cathair (fiberglass strands in a bondo like paste) but nothing that really required any precision.
They weren't grossly out of spec, at least none of the ones I had. Mostly just a little handwork involving filling and sanding for a smooth finish. - dan
- Location
- Whitehorse, Yukon
If your handy with a acraglass and flock should be easy. Haven't seen a drop in stock for a #1 yet. Lots of drop ins available for BA rifles.
I'm sure if you buy a MPI stock it won't be all that hard and at least one of us will volunteer some time to help.
RC
I'm sure if you buy a MPI stock it won't be all that hard and at least one of us will volunteer some time to help.
RC
Naaaahhhhh...it's nowhere near the 'winter project' scale.
Maybe we overdid the 'more work' part....but by that, I mean a couple of evenings to fill, let dry, sand, repeat. The second fill/sand will have it like a baby's bottom. Another short evening to fit & bed, and a couple of coats of paint...that's about it!
A week of short evenings (mostly to allow drying time) and you'll have a nice stock.
I did mine in flat black stove paint, with black 'Krinkle' paint on the areas that would normally be checkered. All I've ever done in 20 years was touch up the paint. I also bedded a chunk of wood inside the butt, to allow a screw on recoil pad. I needed the extra length to accomodate my gorilla arms.
Maybe we overdid the 'more work' part....but by that, I mean a couple of evenings to fill, let dry, sand, repeat. The second fill/sand will have it like a baby's bottom. Another short evening to fit & bed, and a couple of coats of paint...that's about it!
A week of short evenings (mostly to allow drying time) and you'll have a nice stock.
I did mine in flat black stove paint, with black 'Krinkle' paint on the areas that would normally be checkered. All I've ever done in 20 years was touch up the paint. I also bedded a chunk of wood inside the butt, to allow a screw on recoil pad. I needed the extra length to accomodate my gorilla arms.
Perfect. Sounds like I found a stock that'll do the job for me.
I was having visions of getting a stock that an empty shell and pretty much useless without major work.
I bought the gun as a donor to build a fast 25 cal but figured now I'll stick to a 6.5 instead. Probably go with something thats a tad slower which wont burn out barrels.
I'm currently envisioning a 260 remington chambering. Dark gray or black Armacoated action and lever with a 26'' stainless fluted barrel all fit into a nice tan with black web stock with a grind-to-fit limbsaver recoil pad. (seems like a good reason to also buy a new belt sander)
Got a few cold months ahead of me which is plenty of time to start work on the stock.
I was having visions of getting a stock that an empty shell and pretty much useless without major work.
I bought the gun as a donor to build a fast 25 cal but figured now I'll stick to a 6.5 instead. Probably go with something thats a tad slower which wont burn out barrels.
I'm currently envisioning a 260 remington chambering. Dark gray or black Armacoated action and lever with a 26'' stainless fluted barrel all fit into a nice tan with black web stock with a grind-to-fit limbsaver recoil pad. (seems like a good reason to also buy a new belt sander)
Got a few cold months ahead of me which is plenty of time to start work on the stock.
Can you use 1.5" of bedding in the butt to hold the recoil pad?
I'm sure you could - as I recall, I just spotted a chunk of wood laying there, so I slabbed it in with AccraGlas...it was just something to hold the screws. The ones we did up were foam core, and I'm assuming they still are; easy to inlet and bed. You just have to be careful to not remove too much foam, as bedding compound is a lot heavier than foam (if light weight is an objective).
