MRADs or MOA's ???

.303

.303

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Hi All-

So I have purchased a target rifle in .308

Due to where I am, it's not like I will be in any competitions etc.

I just want to get into the hobby of long range shooting (paper). Probably 600 metres max. Given that the .308 has an effective range of what, 800 metres, it most likely won't be out farther than that.

Anyways, I would like to top the rifle off with a decent scope.

I think I am set on Vortex. Most likely the Viper HS-T or HS LR...haven't quite decided yet.

My main question here is what reticle to get. MOA or MRads ? Differences, benefits, pros, cons, would like to be discussed.

Thanks all.
 
Just make sure the turrets and the reticles are the same units. I use MRads but I've used MOA as well. 1MRad is 3.4MOA. So if you have to convert MOA to MRAD just divide by 3.
 
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yes as mentioned make sure your retical and turrets match, saves much math to convert. MOA is a much finer adjustment MOA is usually 1/4moa - .25" at 100,(1MOA is actually 1.047" not a true 1") vs 1/10th mil - .36" at 100yd once you get out to do basically .1" differance, out at 1000 thats a differance of 1" per click... and that adds up

do you plan to shoot tiny groups?
bang steel?
range targets?
ffp of sfp preferance?

i personaly bang steel / rocks as far as i can, in my world a hit is a hit, so i run FFP MIL/MIL .. i know ATRS (im assuming rick is the actual poster) shoots a 2.5" gong at 1000, for him SFP, and MOA/MOA is a better choice, he can zoom in and his retical doesnt cover the whole target. the center dot on my scope is .05MIL which at 1000 is 1.8" of my target covered so for a 2.5" gone i wont exactly be seeing much of that

the objective will really dictate the scope requirements

also for paper / steel the 308 will go much further then 800
 
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either is just fine. moa is a finer increment then mil is all. like others have mentioned just ensure the reticule matches the turrets ,i'm fairly sure all vortex's do.

guy's shoot the 308 way past 800m
 
For me it's MOA...my ranging binos read in either inches or moa so that makes it pretty easy....if I range 500 yards on a target withthe scale set to match say my 22-250 it will read 5 MOA....pretty darn easy, crank up MOA and shoot. No math to do!
 
bearmaz said:
Are you sure about that? Not many people in the world could hit 2.5" at 1000 with any sort of repetition.
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alberta tactical rifle said:
The rationale for the second statement is that at 1000 yards, which is a distance that I shoot at regularly, 1/4 MOA equates to 2.5" where as 1/10th mil is 3.6". When shooting at a 2.5" gong, and having the smallest incremental change being over 3" in a Mil equipped scope,the chances of consistent hits on that gong are nearly zero as 1 click moves the center of the reticle from totally off 1 side to totally off of the other. A 1/4 MOA gives 1 a slightly better chance. IF I ran the world we would have 1/10th MOA click values in scopes. Finer incremental change and easier math:cool:
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yup ... its what i heard
 
ultimate_monkey said:
yes as mentioned make sure your retical and turrets match, saves much math to convert. MOA is a much finer adjustment MOA is usually 1/4moa - .25" at 100,(1MOA is actually 1.047" not a true 1") vs 1/10th mil - .36" at 100yd once you get out to do basically .1" differance, out at 1000 thats a differance of 1" per click... and that adds up

do you plan to shoot tiny groups? Eventually
bang steel? Yes
range targets?Yes
ffp of sfp preferance? SFP as this is what the financial God's have foreseen :)

i personaly bang steel / rocks as far as i can, in my world a hit is a hit, so i run FFP MIL/MIL .. i know ATRS (im assuming rick is the actual poster) shoots a 2.5" gong at 1000, for him SFP, and MOA/MOA is a better choice, he can zoom in and his retical doesnt cover the whole target. the center dot on my scope is .05MIL which at 1000 is 1.8" of my target covered so for a 2.5" gone i wont exactly be seeing much of that

the objective will really dictate the scope requirements

also for paper / steel the 308 will go much further then 800
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I just want to get proficient in longe range shooting, and also feed my reloading hobby.
 
Night force. 5.5-22

SFP , avail in Moa/Moa . Clear crisp glass, tones of adjustment and about as close to un breakable. As you can get


Granted , more $ then the viper line up but well worth the investment
 
Here's another question. Is a parallel rail good enough out that far, or do i need a 20 moa? How much elevation should i be looking at in a scope if i just stick with a flat rail?

Thx
 
20moa is always good to have , they generally cost the same as a 0moa base . Still let you get 100yd zero and let you push way out . The more adjustment in your scope the better ! I exclusively run Schmidt and bender on my 3 long range rifles , they have 27mil (97.2moa) on my 223 I just parted with , I had a 20moa rail,20moa alpha mount and the scope was zeroed with .8mil down of adjustment
 
MRAD, with reticle and turrets matching. Range your targets in metres, and use your ballistic calculator to give you drift dope/come-ups in Mils.

ETA: I feel that the Milliradian system shines especially for ranging targets of known (or approximately known) size at unknown distances.
 
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ultimate_monkey said:
20moa is always good to have , they generally cost the same as a 0moa base . Still let you get 100yd zero and let you push way out . The more adjustment in your scope the better ! I exclusively run Schmidt and bender on my 3 long range rifles , they have 27mil (97.2moa) on my 223 I just parted with , I had a 20moa rail,20moa alpha mount and the scope was zeroed with .8mil down of adjustment
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Being new to this (long range stuf, not shooting) where would 1 buy a 20 moa rail?
 
Depending on the rifle you're using, the answer ranges from anywhere to nowhere LOL.

ETA: If you're shooting something common like a Remington or Savage, try CGN board sponsor Mystic Precision. Also, Alberta Tactical Rifle would have these certainly.

A note to your OP: I've shot my current an several previous 308's out well past 1000m; with the right bullets and loads, the 308 is a good choice for targets out to somewhere way out there. Maybe not the best choice beyond 1K, but certainly capable. Many shooters here use it to compete at 1K.
 
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You talk in meters and MRAD and Metric fit like hand in glove - they were meant for each other. For range estimating nothing is faster, or simpler then
MRAD and Metric. As for a 2.5 inch gong at a 1000 yards (ya right), I think somebody invented that as a reason to choose MOA over MRAD - I mean
what kind of gong would a 2.5 inch metal plate make. Pathetic. If you are only ever going to sit at a bench shooting at known targets at known distances
with a pen and paper and a calculator then MOA is a finer adjustment and a slower calculation whether you use Imperial,or Metric measurements. If part
of the game is to figure out the range to the target as fast as possible, then MRAD and Metric rule.
 
Silverado said:
Depending on the rifle you're using, the answer ranges from anywhere to nowhere LOL.

A note to your OP: I've shot my current an several previous 308's out well past 1000m; with the right bullets and loads, the 308 is a good choice for targets out to somewhere way out there. Maybe not the best choice beyond 1K, but certainly capable. Many shooters here use it to compete at 1K.
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Thats what I've heard. I'm certainly no where near that at all yet. But eventually, and if i can find a spot long enought around here.....

358 BLR said:
You talk in meters and MRAD and Metric fit like hand in glove - they were meant for each other. For range estimating nothing is faster, or simpler then
MRAD and Metric. As for a 2.5 inch gong at a 1000 yards (ya right), I think somebody invented that as a reason to choose MOA over MRAD - I mean
what kind of gong would a 2.5 inch metal plate make. Pathetic. If you are only ever going to sit at a bench shooting at known targets at known distances
with a pen and paper and a calculator then MOA is a finer adjustment and a slower calculation whether you use Imperial,or Metric measurements. If part
of the game is to figure out the range to the target as fast as possible, then MRAD and Metric rule.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's kind of what it is looking like.

Thanks all!
 
just in case you didnt realize why people were saying to go with a 20MOA rail i will give a short intro. on the scopes the total elevation adjustment is pretty much half wasted. it is measured as the very bottom of the range to the very top. if you are zeroing in at 100 your zero will be pretty much right in the middle of the range. given that you wont go down from that point you will never use half of it. putting the MOA base on there will make it so there is less bottom adjustment wasted and you have more top elevation adjustment so you can go to longer ranges. another option if/when you do hit that max adjustment is to zero at longer ranges 200-500 and then it will accomplish the same thing if you really only do long range shooting. also, even if the scope is in MRAD and the elevation base is in MOA it doesnt matter at all.

sorry if you knew that. dont really know your experience level but it never hurts to say.

good luck.
 
Margucci said:
just in case you didnt realize why people were saying to go with a 20MOA rail i will give a short intro. on the scopes the total elevation adjustment is pretty much half wasted. it is measured as the very bottom of the range to the very top. if you are zeroing in at 100 your zero will be pretty much right in the middle of the range. given that you wont go down from that point you will never use half of it. putting the MOA base on there will make it so there is less bottom adjustment wasted and you have more top elevation adjustment so you can go to longer ranges. another option if/when you do hit that max adjustment is to zero at longer ranges 200-500 and then it will accomplish the same thing if you really only do long range shooting. also, even if the scope is in MRAD and the elevation base is in MOA it doesnt matter at all.

sorry if you knew that. dont really know your experience level but it never hurts to say.

good luck.
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Wait, what? Are you saying that zeroing a scope at a longer range will allow you to dial up further then if you're zeroed at 100??? :/ cuz that's what it sounds like and that's not how it works
 
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