Muzzle brake clearances

I make my custom brakes from 303 Stainless. If they are going on a blued barrel, I bead blast them and DuraCoat them either gloss or flat black to best match the barrel. I also don't use crush washers. When I single point cut the barrel threads, I dial in to the bore in a 4 jaw chuck. When I make a batch of brakes, I bore them all to 0.250" which will work nicely on all .224" bores. If the brake is going on a larger caliber, then I bore and aim for 0.025" diametrical clearance. Rather than using crush washers, I prefer to take a skim off the muzzle shoulder to properly "time" the brake. For sporter barrel brakes, I thread 1/2" -28 TPI.

brakes.jpg
 

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I make my custom brakes from 303 Stainless. If they are going on a blued barrel, I bead blast them and DuraCoat them either gloss or flat black to best match the barrel. I also don't use crush washers. When I single point cut the barrel threads, I dial in to the bore in a 4 jaw chuck. When I make a batch of brakes, I bore them all to 0.250" which will work nicely on all .224" bores. If the brake is going on a larger caliber, then I bore and aim for 0.025" diametrical clearance. Rather than using crush washers, I prefer to take a skim off the muzzle shoulder to properly "time" the brake. For sporter barrel brakes, I thread 1/2" -28 TPI.

View attachment 229891

With 1/2-28, whats your in-feed on the compound, assuming ~29° set?
 
Curious to know Denise or gitrdun what you would charge for a thread protector on the 1/2" by 28 tpi?
I think this Jennings thread is that.

P.M. me if you wish.
 
Interesting test where they use the same brake, and make the hole progressively larger.




Looking between both videos, it appears brake design has more to do with recoil reduction than the hole size until one bears to almost 50% more diameter.
 
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