Muzzle Brake coming loose

PEI ROB said:
TRGOD36, does the top of your brake look like the AR brake with the angled ports? If not, when the brake is installed with the jam nut, is the crown flush with the first port? Do the threads look good and does the brake thread on without wiggle. Not fond of the jam nut myself, I'd rather lap/touch up the barrel shoulder to get the brake in time. As far as the adjustable die goes, they have their place but I find it just as easy to finish with the lathe.
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It has the angled ports. The crown is about 1/8 of an inch back from the first port. It threads on easily by hand but does not wiggle when installing it. Don't know anything about adjustable die's or even how to use a lathe my day job involves blowing rocks up.
 
TRGOD36 said:
It has the angled ports. The crown is about 1/8 of an inch back from the first port. It threads on easily by hand but does not wiggle when installing it.
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The first port being the angled port, the thread length sounds good since the angle makes that port opening about 1/8" back from what you see on the outside.

I'm not sure if it was originally tight enough or not, depends if it had grease on it. Grease on threads does not make for a reliable hold on anything but it helps ensure easy removal and prevents gaulling. Metal to metal friction is what holds thread systems together, placing grease between the metal greatly reduces the friction. I would assemble it with grease on the inside of the brake only making sure the jam nut is completely dry and no grease is between the jam nut and brake, and of course tightened on about 15 lbs/ft. Retry that and if it comes loose (I doubt it) then use red locktite.

Its entirely possible your smith did a great job but forgot to tighten it properly, NOBODY is immune to the occasional brain fart.

My 2 cents.

Cheers,
Rob
 
I use a high pressure lubricant Never-Seize on threads for choke tubes and on brakes on precision rifles. It adds strength to the joint when assembled tight, it does not cause it to work loose, it aids in torquing it tight. It prevents carbon building up in the threads from pressure blow back.

But I don't know what any old grease would do on a poorly fitted brake on a rifle as you have...
 
Using lube on threads will dramatically increase clamping force for the same amount of applied torque over dry threads. Yes, extra clamping force will strengthen the joint and good grease will certainly help against carbon build up issues. Removing said lubed fastener requires less torque than a dry fastener. Normally grease won't cause a loosening problem, it will when the threads are poor, the fit is off or the material goes beyond its yeild strength.
 
I am not shure why the jam nut is used but If I was doing it over I would have the brake timed to seat against the barrel shoulder, I have never had a problem with a brake coming off when properly installed, a proper thread fit and perfectly perpendicular shoulders go a long way in avoiding the brake unscrewing. Clean threads and light oil is all I ever use when installing brakes. Since a jam nut is used I would use a little anti seize between the parts and snug it down, if you don't have a good fit of the threaded parts you can strip threads so be careful.
bigbull
 
I used Blue Loc-Tite on all the Smith Enterprises Vortex/Direct Connection Flash Suppressors that I installed on my M-14s (with and without cut down barrels...)..................Never had a problem with them loosening off...............I personally wouldn't use the Red Loc-Tite...........I don't like the idea of putting heat to the muzzle of a barrel to remove the FH/Brake............

YMMV.

SKBY.
 
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