Muzzle Brake Install

G

gstprecision

Regular
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
Location
Frankford, On
The weather is finally co-operating and I was able to work in the shop today. I am building a 7mm-08 for my son and I decided to install one of my new muzzle brakes.

I started by marking the barrel for timing of the brake. If I the scope bases are removed I like to use a string to align everything.



I then chucked the brake in the 4 jaw, dialed it in and bored the hole to 0.312" using an O drill.



I chamfered the crown using a 60 degree piloted center drill.


I skipped the threading and crowning of the muzzle, I can cover that at a later date if there is interest.

The brake was timed by setting the tenon shoulder back a few thou at a time.

Here is the result:


Cheers
GST
 
I trheaded between centers for this one. I know there is dozens of different methods to achieve the same results. I like between centers because the setup is quick.

This barrel was chambered by myself and I always start by cutting new centers with the piloted 60 degree center drill.

Chuck the chamber end and indicate. Turn down to dimension and thread. Using the steady rest to finish the crown.

GST
 
I prefer to use one of the other ways...
Set the barrel up through the headstock, with spider and 4-jaw chuck, indicating it in on the bore. Thread the muzzle. Screw on the brake. Bore the brake to the appropriate ID.
 
I use the exact method Tiriaq just described that way you are guaranteed the bored hole in the brake is concentric with the barrel's bore and no chance of the bullet hitting.
 
Yes I calculate how much is approximately required by dividing 1" by the number of threads. Then the final adjustment are done 1-2 thou at a time.

I also use through the headstock method. I did not want to get into what method is best/better with this post, maybe we can do that in another post. By using the piloted center drill to recut the muzzle crown you ensure that all of the subsequent turning/threading is done in relation to the bore.

Again there is many ways to skin a cat, between the centers is just another one. I know some people only like one way and this is the only good way, but I use a few methods and they all work.

GST
 
It all boils down to making the inside of the brake concentric to the bore...

If you can dial it in through the head stock and bore the brake while attached it is easier to achieve... but if you can't do it through the head stock, on centers is the next way.
 
Suputin said:
Opening up the bore using a drill bit does not ensure concentricity as the drill will simply follow the existing hole. To ensure concentricity you'd need to use an endmill.
Click to expand...

I do agree with you an end mill would not follow the existing hole. These brakes are 100% machined in 1 operation on a 5 axis CNC so everything is concentric. I am not too worried about 1-2 thou here and there. The bore is opened up to 0.030" over caliber nominal, which is plenty.

I you think of a brake you buy pre bored for your caliber they are all done that way or similar to. You can also check some Youtube videos of well known gunsmith, they chuck the brakes in 3 jaws without even dialing them and drill them with drill bits. At least with a 4 jaw you are maximizing your chances of getting it right.

GST

GST
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom