Muzzle brake

GILLY

GILLY

CGN Regular
EE Expired
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Location
Rose Valley, Saskatchewan
I want to put a brake on my 7mm RM, any ideas who has a good design here in Canada and can do it for me. I see all kinds of folks advertizing for these in gun mags, but they are all yanks.....I'd like to keep my money home.

PM or post me any info. I live is Sask, so if they is anyone here I can drive there, but I'm not afraid to mail it either.
 
guntech does excellent work and is on this board. Dennis Sorenson on Vanc. Island.

Bevan King will also do nice work but I think he is retired/retiring. Ron Smith in Alta. Not sure about Ted Gaillard but he is in Sask. Ellwood Epps. The list is quite long.

There are two basic styles of brakes. The first one below is sometimes called a gilled or baffled brake. I like these the best and they work very well for me. The pic is of a Micaluk brake on my 7RM. Recoil with 162gr Amax is like a 22/250. I spot my own hits.

This is a mass produce brake and very well priced. The Holland brake is similar and about three times the cost. If you have access to a drill press, making this type of brake is very easy. You just need a lathe to do the install and final boring.



The next style is also effective and very common. This one is on my 7 Mystic which also reduces recoil to zip.



The key is getting as much surface area in holes as possible. Number, location, and size doesn't matter. The one with the most metal missing wins.

If you want the highest recoil reduction, forget about front venting or forward angled holes. That reduces the overal effectiveness of any brake. The difference in noise reduction is minimal.

Actually, the BOSS is one of the loudest brakes I have used. Lowest recoil reduction too.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
The key is getting as much surface area in holes as possible. Number, location, and size doesn't matter. The one with the most metal missing wins.
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lol by that logic doesn't that mean that barrels with no brake are the best? lol just kidding.

I was thinking about getting a brake on a .308 but have firmly decided against it, best thing I did was just find the most comfortable shooting position.

I live near guntech and have heard many good things about his work from people who have done business with him.
 
This is what I mean by big with lots of surface area.

http://www.armalite.com/sales/catalog/rifles/ar50.htm

The JP Ent brake follows the same theme...and appearance.'

The Miculek brake should cost around $70 to 80. Hollands can run upwards of $200. Gunsmith brakes...well, just ask.

Most smiths will package the cost of the brake with install. Otherwise, expect to pay $50 to 100 for install.

Jerry
 
i got one put on my mod 70 300 wby at gun works in stoon. If i remember correct it cost about 150$. and i regreted it the first hunting season. Frickin thing was way to loud!!! started getting a flinch cause of the noise. and no body wanted to be near me cause they got the brunt of the blast.

On the other hand it was nice at the range. to do it again i'd get a cap made for it as well so when in the feild you take off the brake and screw on the cap to protect the thread....better yet save your money and get used to the recoil.
 
Hi guys,
how about trying a Vice (quiet) brake from Ron Bartlett's (www.muzzlebrakes.com)
I just recently installed this brake on my Tikka 300 WSM light. This works absolutly awsome. Kick has been reduced to about a 308 and the sound is given off exactly the same as if there wasnt a muzzle break on it. I also installed one for my buddy onto his Sakko 300 Wby with the same results.

Victor.
 
moose_hunter said:
it is the gun is very short very light and a 300.... and it just has a butt pad no recoil pad
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before you go out and spend large $$ on a brake why not install a quality recoil pad and a sissy*not ment to be derogetory* bag in the stock good recoil pads are only about $50 and a sissy bag can be made witha ziplock bag and some lead fishing weights or shot i put a decelerator on my .303 to tame it down abit before brakeing it and found that after the pad there was no need for a brake
 
Corlane Sports in Dawson Creek put a brake on a Voere 7mm RM for me a few years ago. It's a very light gun - plenty of shoulder punch, and lots of muzzle jump. They did an excellent job. I can put a box and half through it now without bruising myself up, and my shooting with it has improved considerably. I think it was about $160...and well worth it.
 
icedog said:
Corlane Sports in Dawson Creek put a brake on a Voere 7mm RM for me a few years ago. It's a very light gun - plenty of shoulder punch, and lots of muzzle jump. They did an excellent job. I can put a box and half through it now without bruising myself up, and my shooting with it has improved considerably. I think it was about $160...and well worth it.
Click to expand...

It's up to $190 now for the brake, and i had it done to a 300 win mag.With a limbsaver pad added the recoil is 50 % of what it is without the brake(i can unscrew it)The noise level is greatly increased to the point that hearing protection is a must,however it was already at that point that i wouldn't shoot it brakeless without hearing protection anyways so greater noise was a mute point in my case.

I have hearing damage already from machinery noise so want to keep what i have. :( Sucks to hear bells ringing in the bush all the time.
Put a limbsaver on it first and see how that works for you then add a brake later if you want.
 
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