Muzzle break advice.

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Goose smasher

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Hello everyone.

I'm looking for a little bit of help from some of you guys who have more experience in this area than me. I have a Tikka T3X varmint in .243 and I love the rifle. It shoots so well. This is my target/Coyote rifle and I'm starting to stretch it out to really see what I can do. The problem I'm having at longer ranges , say 400 yards+ is I'm having trouble spotting my hits and I was wondering if I added a muzzle brake if this would help hold me on target better to see those hits. Obviously recoil is not a concern with this caliber. Do you think I'm on the right path and if so would you recommend a particular brake that you've done well with? Thank you in advance for any help!

Goose Smasher
 
270WSMXBolt said:
Your body position in relation to the rifle is preventing you from re-acquiring your target due to recoil.
Click to expand...
X2. Body position on the rifle is crucial. If recoil isn’t a problem like the OP stated then a muzzle brake won’t help.

If shooting prone then I found ‘loading’ up the bipod against something stationary is night and day difference. If properly loaded then you should be able to keep the rifle planted with your shoulder while still being on target reaching for more cartridges.
 
Brakes help. No doubt.
But as others have said, body position (natural point of aim) is probably more of an issue if you already feel recoil is insignificant.

243 is also a light and small pill so less splash (for misses) to help and less trace too. And if u dont have a backstop near the target range forget it.

400 is actually not that far for a modern 25x optic either (no idea what you have on) so u cud also open your field of view a bit by zooming out to 16x or so if u are zoomed in further. Even if the crosshairs jump off target you might still see impacts with a wider fov.

Love my 243. Its a hammer.

I have been using heathens on most of mine and i even have one on my 243.
 
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My recommendation for brake is the Area 419 Hellfire Match. Easy to remove and clean, I haven't experienced Point of Impact shift like I have with some others when removing for cleaning. I recommend the raw stainless version over the Nitride one. You can just drop the brake in CLR, let it soak, then the carbon just wipes off. If you put a nitride brake in CLR it will turn pink ish. BoreTech C4 carbon remover is what I use for my nitride Area 419 brakes, but it is much more expensive than CLR. Go Big Tactical is a good place to get Area 419 brakes.
 
Just another confirmation of body position being important... and an Insite Arms Heathen stainless steel brake: Tikka T3 Super Varmint in 300 Win Mag I can watch the bullet hit the target at 600m (rarely, if the atmosphere is right, see the trajectory too).
 
When the snow makes it difficult to see your hits, go to a larger caliber for a bigger 'splash'. That's what we always did when hunting moving coyotes.
 
Couple weeks ago I bought a 6gt that weighs 14lb’s, it came without a break and shots would bounce me off target still a little.

I ordered a Insite Arms Heathen g2 4 port break from a fine cgn member last week and tested it out yesterday and today. It made good difference, I’m able to keep on target with no issue now. I don’t know a thing about breaks but this one I have no regrets with.
 
I am also shopping for a muzzle break barrel tuner combo.
But I need a "slip on" I don't want to send out my barrel for treading.
Also, I would like to find a detachable, to be able to remove the break from the tuner for competition situations.
So far I have not seen any shops advertising it here in Canada, I could only find two mfg in USA, but 2-3 months ETA.
I am very surprised, this thing is a simple machining item regardless of tolerance stack up, any ordinary CNC lathe operator / machine shop shall be able to build it comfortably.
 
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