Muzzle break removal from Springfield Waypoint 2020

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SeabassAO

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Any advice for removal? I tied so far by simply inserting a screwdriver through the holes in the break and trying to unscrew. I did not clamp the barrel in any way, as it is carbon wrapped, so I’m worried about damaging it. My next move is hair dryer and then if that doesn’t work, then penetrating oil. It is on there tight! I removed the rail from it as well, and same thing, it was on there like a mother. Any other advice?

Thanks
 
Wrap barrel in a leather belt and clamp in a vise.

Protect muzzle device in a similar fashion.

Use a pipe wrench to remove,

I used a 24" pipe wrench to remove the muzzle device on a Black Creek Labs Bison a few months ago.....it was tight
 
I'd contact the mfr for advice RE the barrel wrap. Too much pressure might f-up the fiber. The hair dryer should be OK, as well as the P-oil . . . maybe both ?
 
Yeah I’m pretty hesitant to clamp on the barrel at all……I don’t know that it can take any kind of pressure at all. I believe the process how they wrap their barrels are slightly different than others. It’s under a lot of tension.
 
Make sure the action screws are good and tight and in a padded vise clamp the stock where the recoil lug is firmly. Heat the muzzle of the brake with a propane torch and let the heat work back towards the barrel... it needs to get quite hot... and then try and remove it... Hair dryers are for hair.

A wet rag on the carbon wrap and remove the brake quickly...
 
Last edited:
guntech said:
Make sure the action screws are good and tight and in a padded vise clamp the stock where the recoil lug is firmly. Heat the muzzle of the brake with a propane torch and let the heat work back towards the barrel... it needs to get quite hot... and then try and remove it... Hair dryers are for hair.

A wet rag on the carbon wrap and remove the brake quickly...
Click to expand...

I was told the same thing from a gunsmith that put a brake on my REM 700. It was on too tight for my likings and he said the torch wouldn’t ruin the blueing.
 
Hot air blower and /or penetrating oil not likely to touch the glue often used in there on those threads - is sometimes not "torqued" tight - it is "glued" tight - as was the recent case on a brake / flash hider on a Savage rifle, here. Read up on the heat temp needed to break down red thread locker - then read up on the heat output temp of a hair dryer.
 
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