Muzzle break shims

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hfx123

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Hand tighted an xb1 dlask onto my barrel. With crush washer in place I'm still seeing a lot of threads. I haven't greased or wrenched just put on once to check length in handguard but it made me wonder. Should I pack this space with shims? Torque value for this device? Do I use more than one crush washer or one crush washer and a few shims? It has two slots like noveske pig so want to time it with those horizontal

Heading to store wondering what I need. First time installing
 
I'm no expert but it should thread on far enough to touch the crush washer then be torqued down. If you are going to use shims don't use a crush washer, choose one or the other. Shims will allow you time the device better than a crush washer. Porc torque spec for a muzzle break is 30ft/lbs also, don't grease the thread.
 
flipincanadian said:
I'm no expert but it should thread on far enough to touch the crush washer then be torqued down. If you are going to use shims don't use a crush washer, choose one or the other. Shims will allow you time the device better than a crush washer. Porc torque spec for a muzzle break is 30ft/lbs also, don't grease the thread.
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OK thank you. It came tight well before the crush washer so I'll grab some shims today. I've yet to put a wrench on it so maybe it will be fine and there were lots more turns there
 
hfx123 said:
OK thank you. It came tight well before the crush washer so I'll grab some shims today. I've yet to put a wrench on it so maybe it will be fine and there were lots more turns there
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Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have a bigger issue at work. There is no way a muzzle BRAKE should tighten up before reaching a crush washer. Filling up that space or any space with shims is a very bad idea as it doesn't address whatever problem you have going on there.

Remove the crush washer. Spin the brake on by hand. It should easily screw on nearly till it hits the shoulder of the barrel thread. You do not need a wrench to spin a muzzle brake on. If it doesn't easily thread on then one of the threads is out of spec. Taking a wrench to an out of spec thread is the single best way to destroy the threading, gall the threads together and result in expensive machine work to fix the issue.

Are you 100% certain you have the correct model of brake? Something like a 9mm brake will have a 1/2-32 thread while a 223 brake will have a 1/2-28 thread. Trying to thread the wrong pitch threads together typically results in the two bits going a turn and a bit before coming tight.

FWIW I dealt with a Dlask bbl a bunch of years ago that had out of spec muzzle threads.
 
Suputin said:
Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have a bigger issue at work. There is no way a muzzle BRAKE should tighten up before reaching a crush washer. Filling up that space or any space with shims is a very bad idea as it doesn't address whatever problem you have going on there.

Remove the crush washer. Spin the brake on by hand. It should easily screw on nearly till it hits the shoulder of the barrel thread. You do not need a wrench to spin a muzzle brake on. If it doesn't easily thread on then one of the threads is out of spec. Taking a wrench to an out of spec thread is the single best way to destroy the threading, gall the threads together and result in expensive machine work to fix the issue.

Are you 100% certain you have the correct model of brake? Something like a 9mm brake will have a 1/2-32 thread while a 223 brake will have a 1/2-28 thread. Trying to thread the wrong pitch threads together typically results in the two bits going a turn and a bit before coming tight.

FWIW I dealt with a Dlask bbl a bunch of years ago that had out of spec muzzle threads.
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Yeah it threads on perfectly fine until it comes tight. Starts fine no wobble in threads and just just goes on perfect until........ It comes snug and I can still count 5 threads. I look in business end and I can see remaining threads inside the brake but it won't go. I don't want to force with a wrench of course but it takes the first 8 threads perfectly and spins on nicely

**Hand tight now down to 3 threads left.
 
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Suputin said:
Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have a bigger issue at work. There is no way a muzzle BRAKE should tighten up before reaching a crush washer. Filling up that space or any space with shims is a very bad idea as it doesn't address whatever problem you have going on there.

Remove the crush washer. Spin the brake on by hand. It should easily screw on nearly till it hits the shoulder of the barrel thread. You do not need a wrench to spin a muzzle brake on. If it doesn't easily thread on then one of the threads is out of spec. Taking a wrench to an out of spec thread is the single best way to destroy the threading, gall the threads together and result in expensive machine work to fix the issue.

Are you 100% certain you have the correct model of brake? Something like a 9mm brake will have a 1/2-32 thread while a 223 brake will have a 1/2-28 thread. Trying to thread the wrong pitch threads together typically results in the two bits going a turn and a bit before coming tight.

FWIW I dealt with a Dlask bbl a bunch of years ago that had out of spec muzzle threads.
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It's not messing up just a turn or two in. It's threading on about 3/4 of the way. I'm going to clean both sides make sure no gunk and try again. It definitely won't spin on to barrel shoulder without crush washer and won't spin onto crush washer at all in current state. The threads seem right. I screw with threads quite a bit pardon the pun. If they were out of pitch it would show before being 3/4 of the way down

Brake is 1/2 x 28 according to spec and the barrel is a ballistic advantage brand new
 
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As Suputin pointed out, don't force the brake on if it won't go any further by hand. Contact DLASK and they'll most likely replace it. Might suck that you may be out shipping fees to them.
 
Hand turned it on to another 1/2 x 28. Hit a snug spot but then threaded right to shoulder. Then took it off and it threaded almost all the way now. Doing that gained another 3 threads. If I use 1 x shim for timing for the slots it will be all good. Thanks for input.
 
Trinimon said:
Good stuff. Sounds like the threads on the brake must have had some burs etc.
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Yes.... Happy. That would have held completing this a bit. Thabks for the tips guys. If I hadn't of used another barrel and just cranked it onto the new one I may have done some damage. All seems well now
 
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