Muzzle device timing: shim kit or peel washers?
- Thread starter Joel
- Start date
1/2"fine thread will go to at least 100# before you risk damage. I used a pipe wrench to hold the barrel while I tightened my muzzle device onto the crush washer.
Do the ol mechanics trick of tightening her until she starts to loosen, then back her off a touch
.
Do the ol mechanics trick of tightening her until she starts to loosen, then back her off a touch
.
Couple times whether its guns, auto/small engine or whatever else, I've done that (especially while frustrated) and ended up wishing I'd just slept on it lol. Figured might as well just ask here
Sounds like that worked just fine for ya hahaha
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
If you really need to adjust to get the timing right without excessive torque, you can take a little material off the washer or muzzle brake.
Use a little math to get it right easily without guessing:
1/28=.0357" (the length of one turn of thread)
If you need to go another quarter turn for example:
.25x.0357=.009" (material to come off the brake or washer)
Use a little math to get it right easily without guessing:
1/28=.0357" (the length of one turn of thread)
If you need to go another quarter turn for example:
.25x.0357=.009" (material to come off the brake or washer)
DaveMachine
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- That one place with a cowboy complex
I've ordered crush washers from TNA and Brownells. The TNA washers took quite a lot of force to get appropriate indexing so I stopped using them and just stick to Brownells.
I mean no offense, I chortle at the whole just take 9mils off something. For context, that's 1.5X the thickness of a piece of paper. When someone is taking off that little material, it's really Friggin hard. Especially if you're hand filing it down. It's a bit easier if your milling it or touching it with the lathe. Otherwise you'd better grab the calipers and check after almost every cut of the file.
