Muzzlebrake

Regardless of opinion the original question was where to get a brake in canada? Links? Numbers? Please!

We build some of the most effective brakes made today. We can make them in almost any diameter or thread pitch and to fit nearly any rifle.

Brake effeciency is directly related to how much gas is produced and the velocity in which it leaves the rifle barrel. It has NOTHING to do with if a caliber is overbore or not. The amount of percieved recoil reduction is also based on how much recoil is initially generated.
223 is not a hard recoiling caliber so the amount of recoil reduced is minimal on the shoulder, the brakes we engineered for our short ARs totally eliminates muzzle jump.
The brakes we engineered for the bigger calibers will take the recoil from a 338 Lapua down to about the same recoil on the shoulder as 22-250 just lots louder.
On the 450 there is no reason that a well engineered brake will not reduce the recoil substantially.

Contact info in my sig line.
 
Here is a muzzle brake made in Canada:

https://www.dlaskarms.com//product_...d=105&osCsid=4d5d008e95c198a49076b966f219737a

This is made by Dlask Arms in Delta B.C and works very well for reducing recoil but be warned that the better they work to reduce recoil usually the louder they get to the shooter.

Also:

https://www.dlaskarms.com//product_...id=21&osCsid=4d5d008e95c198a49076b966f219737a

This one is also nice and not as loud as the above mentioned brake. Lots of different size variations as well. Good luck with your venture!
 
Dennis Sorrensen (guntech) can provide and install a brake as well. I'm sure he can acquire pretty much any of the common brakes (VAIS, KDF, Etc...) or he has one of his own design he can put on, along with a gnurled threaded end cap if you like. Here is a pic of one on my .270 Wby.

DSC_0083.jpg
 
We build some of the most effective brakes made today. We can make them in almost any diameter or thread pitch and to fit nearly any rifle.

Brake effeciency is directly related to how much gas is produced and the velocity in which it leaves the rifle barrel. It has NOTHING to do with if a caliber is overbore or not. The amount of percieved recoil reduction is also based on how much recoil is initially generated.
223 is not a hard recoiling caliber so the amount of recoil reduced is minimal on the shoulder, the brakes we engineered for our short ARs totally eliminates muzzle jump.
The brakes we engineered for the bigger calibers will take the recoil from a 338 Lapua down to about the same recoil on the shoulder as 22-250 just lots louder.
On the 450 there is no reason that a well engineered brake will not reduce the recoil substantially.

Contact info in my sig line.

So you are suggesting a 300Wby and a 416 Rem have the same percentage of recoil reduction?

Granted my 416 was 8 pounds (even)...Did the light weight negate the effect of the brake?
Was the KDF a poor choice for the caliber in question?
The brake was installed by Guntech btw.

Anyone that shot my 416 with and without the brake noticed a slight difference, but it did not have the same effect as say my 375 Ultra. The 375 Ultra is dramatic in recoil reduction.

Curious as to you input on my 416 experience?
 
So you are suggesting a 300Wby and a 416 Rem have the same percentage of recoil reduction?

Granted my 416 was 8 pounds (even)...Did the light weight negate the effect of the brake?
Was the KDF a poor choice for the caliber in question?
The brake was installed by Guntech btw.

Anyone that shot my 416 with and without the brake noticed a slight difference, but it did not have the same effect as say my 375 Ultra. The 375 Ultra is dramatic in recoil reduction.

Curious as to you input on my 416 experience?

The theory behind brake design is fairly simple, the more gasses that can be redirected the more effecient the brake will be. The other part of the equation is that the faster and the higher the volume of gasses are being redirected the more effecient the brake will be.

It would be hard to compare a light rifle in a big caliber to a slightly heavier rifle in a smaller caliber, the brakes effectiveness should be the same.

Not having built a 416 Rem but having built several 416 Rigbys I know that our brakes work extremely well in 416 caliber. The last 416 Rigby was built on a Nesika action, weighed 9 lbs and recoil was similar to 243 on the shoulder.

I am wondering if the stock design and fit of your 416 is not part of the culprit?
Honestly it matters not who installed the brake. Dennis is certainly very competent, but the radial port brakes are far less effective than some of the more modern designs.
 
I had a brake put on a very lightweight 7mmRM by Corlane Sports in Dawson Creek (250 782 2111) several years ago. I think the brake is of their own manufacture. Pre-brake, the gun was a nasty little beast, and range sessions with it usually left me with a technicolor shoulder and a tendency to flinch. Now, with just a summer weight shirt protecting my shoulder, I can put 20 or 30 rounds through it no problem. No bruises, little to no muzzle jump, and much improved groups. I like it. To the those who like recoil and muzzle jump, or for whatever reason detest muzzle brakes... enjoy! It's a personal choice.
 
I put a brake on my 300win mag.When shooting 200gr bullets the thing used to kick really bad.I use it when shooting at the range when you want to blast off 20-30 rds without hurting.For hunting I'll take it off.
 
I own Husqvarna 30-06 that weighs a little over 6 lbs. The recoil was quite severe... enough that it cracked the original stock right behind the bolt. I had a KDF muzzle brake installed at the Klondike Arms or Custom Gun shop (can't remember which), back in the '80's. Tamed the recoil down to the point where I can shoot round after round with no trouble...and no more cracked stock. Sure the noise level is higher, but that's something that I have no trouble living with. My .02
Chris
 
have to choose between shoulders or ears. i choose ears beacause shoulder pain is temporary but hearing loss is permanent.
 
Just looking to make my gun a little different from the rest. Yes I agree to step down if you can't handle the recoil. I have no problem with the recoil. I don't like the tatical look so I'm just looking to see what I can do with the gun. Thanks for imput all
 
Recoil comes from two sources. One source is the equal and opposite reaction to bullet movement. The second source is the product of the expulsion of gases from the muzzle. Muzzle breaks reduce recoil from the second source.
Cartridges which launch heavy bullets using smallish charges of quicker powders will show much less reduction . This is simply because a larger percentage of the recoil is primary recoil from the inertia of the heavy bullet.
Cartridges which use large charges of slower burning powder to push light bullets will show the greatest amount of reduction. Sometimes the effect is beyond remarkable.
A large capacity 416 like the 416 Rigby will show a significant reduction because it uses a very large charge of fairly slow powder to launch it's admittedly heavy bullets. Because the bullets are heavy though, the primary recoil will always make itself felt. A muzzle brake on a 416 Rigby and a 416 Taylor will be more effective on the Rigby but it will not be able to reduce the recoil to less than that of the braked 416 Taylor. Putting it another way. The Rigby might see a 50% reduction and the Taylor a 35% reduction but the end product will be the same if velocities are similar.
Cartridges like the 45/70 or the 450 Marlin drive heavy bullets with relatively small charges of medium rate powder. A larger percentage of the recoil generated comes from primary recoil so these cartridges will benefit somewhat less.
I am not and never have been a fan of muzzle brakes but I suppose I've installed a few hundred of the darn things. I've never had one on one of my own rifles and likely never will. Your choice. Regards, Bill
 
I had a stock muzzle brake on a 338 win mag that reduced the recoil dramatically, and was quite a bit louder, but the real problem was the blast of gasses coming back from the muzzle. Felt like a slap in the face every time you took a shot. I prefered the kick in the shoulder.

Have you considered a PAST pad instead? They are great for reducing recoil.
 
Most decent brakes direct the gasses away from the shooter, it is the guys on either side that get to enjoy the blast:eek:

I believe he is referring to the 30 degree angle of the holes which are angled away from the shooter and those parallel to him than the Browning BOSS or Weatherby Accubrake yet works virtually as well as them. Dave makes them himself and does a great job.

Have you guys noticed he has a new website?
 
I just put a muzzle brake on my 858.. its like shooting a .22. There is little to no muzzle rise. Its a little louder, but I always wear earmuffs so it doesn't bother me.
 
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