my 10TR

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Ontario, Canada
Got this on sale last summer, bought the viper PST 6~24X50mm last August and just got to mount the scope last weekend on 30mm low viper rings.




I wasn't really planning to lap it as vortex says their rings need no lapping but the alignment bars said so...

Side:

Top:







After lapping:

Side:


Top:







I just manually boresighted it and looking forward to test how it shoots in a few months time.
Should I consider barrel break-in? Is 2 boxes of ammo really needed per savage's website?
 
didn't expect the scope would be further back after finally setting up eye relief. Set magnification to 24x while doing it up. And the this PSTs spec says 4" which is about right. And also the rifle's accustock is considerably long.
 
Looks good!
For barrel break in i used the technique from someone on youtube called "sniper101"
He compares a benchrest break in to the copper equilibrium break in.
I have the exact same rifle and went for the second.

My factory rail had tons of grease under it, and was springing a bit once cleaned out, you might want to check that out.
I had got JB weld and shoe polish to bed rail, but either by pure luck or by quality of product, atrs 20 moa rail did not spring
 
I didn't check the base screws. Just watched youtube vids and saw the springing/slack test on each end of the base before mounting.
But I think I wouldn't have that case on my base as the alignment rings tell me it's aligned vertically even before I lapped the rings.

 
If you didn't remove the rail, not even once, i would do it personally
Owned two 10TRs, older one with indian head logo, new one with new savage S logo, both had tons of oil between rail and receiver, and both did not have rail screws properly torqued.
While being there, might as well loctite rail screws before reassembling
 
Marty, need your advise on this one. I'm fairly new how to remove the base. Need to find time for it.
Do I need to heat (soldering tip) those 4 screws so there will be unexpected things when I loosen them?
And also supposing if the rail (egw 0 MOA - aluminum) has a slop and was factory installed, does that mean the rail is already bent upon installation/torqueing and is unusable?

Is oil beneath the base and receiver not really needed? As I've seen youtube vids and they put oil there for rust protection overtime. What if it's a light coat of grease as long as it would not get inside the threads upon fully torqued?

And also, I've seen vids of JB weld bedding on front and rear of rail, some do it only on the rear. So which is really preferable?

I have the older 10TR with indian head logo. I heard the new ones already come with 10-rd mag.
 
You really need to remove the rail from the action to clean the factory oïl. Also check for the oïl in the action screw holes. If there is too much, it will avoid you to torque these screw properly.

You don't need much oïl there. When you are going to wipe it out, the light film that will stay from the wiping cloth will be enough for rust protection. You need the maximum contact surface between the rail and the action. You need also to torque the rail screws on the action (i don't recall what is the exact torque needed), and I highly suggest you to put blue locktite (low retaining force) on these screw, because the last thing you want is to have them getting loose over time.

The rail screws should'nt be that hard to unscrew the first time. If you torque them properly with locktite, then yu may require more force to remove them in the future.

Dark
 
I think I will shoot it first and see if there will be issues. I'm quite hesitant to remove the base for now as I might run into unexpected problems with the screws.
 
red_star said:
Do I need to heat (soldering tip) those 4 screws so there will be unexpected things when I loosen them?
And also supposing if the rail (egw 0 MOA - aluminum) has a slop and was factory installed, does that mean the rail is already bent upon installation/torqueing and is unusable?
Click to expand...

You don't need to heat them up. Just take a screwdriver and unscrew them. Clean the oil and screw it back with a proper torque. If the rail has a slop, it may need to be tightened to the specs. Sometimes the rails come loose from the factories.
 
Evil_Dark said:
You really need to remove the rail from the action to clean the factory oïl. Also check for the oïl in the action screw holes. If there is too much, it will avoid you to torque these screw properly.

You don't need much oïl there. When you are going to wipe it out, the light film that will stay from the wiping cloth will be enough for rust protection. You need the maximum contact surface between the rail and the action. You need also to torque the rail screws on the action (i don't recall what is the exact torque needed), and I highly suggest you to put blue locktite (low retaining force) on these screw, because the last thing you want is to have them getting loose over time.

The rail screws should'nt be that hard to unscrew the first time. If you torque them properly with locktite, then yu may require more force to remove them in the future.

Dark
Click to expand...


Missed your reply red star
This text pretty much sums it up
 
The problem with screws are either existant or not
If you discover them you will have just discovered an existing problem.

Savage had no loctite in there, old and new logo alike
A torque driver is highly recommended
I do not know savage factory specs, but the ATRS rail i got is 25 in/lbs, with blue loctite
 
I use to not remove the rail on new guns either, had two come loose on me, one a .22 wasn't torqued right from factory, caught it early fixed it and was fine, second on a .308 that ruined a day of shooting, was out to 650 yards and my usual dial up for that distance was not on target, scratched head, adjusted and back on target, next group off to the side now but no wind change, this happened two more times, was frustrated and packed up for the day, when I got home it was now loose enough to notice, it had oil under it.

Now no mater what the gun, every screw gets checked and if it has a rail it's removed cleaned and torqued.
 
Folks, thanks for all the inputs and advices. Will definitely find time and remove the rail. I googled and the rails is a 0MOA EGW aluminum base. Good to know there's no loctite in there.
Per EGW's website, torque specs should be 20 in-lb. Will post pics of what I will find beneath.
I will also remove the stock and check for oil.
 
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