my 10TR
- Thread starter red_star
- Start date
So then I removed the scope, rings and finally the base. The four screws were decent tight and I they were screeching as I loosened them, and there's tons of oil beneath...
I wiped off the oil completely. Then installing only the 2 front screws tightened them a bit, I checked for slop on the rear of the rail, but I can only find very very minimal slop/gap. But I was telling myself this aluminum rail may have already bent a bit since it was already installed at the factory. I didn't consider bedding with JB weld for minimal gap considering my rings already aligned from the previous install.
But I would really be interested on how much a new rail leave a gap for bedding. So I degreased the holes, screws. Put a very thin film of grease on top of receiver and then installed the 4 bolts with blue loctite.
I noticed as well that the first screw hole towards the muzzle, you would see the barrel threads (a bit flattened by the screw) in the chamber:
Since the 4 bolts are all of the same lengths, I was considering shortening 1 screw but was very hesitant as I may not be able to start threading it back. So I just left it alone. But I hope I didn't mess-up with threads (barrel & base screw) upon torqueing to 20 in-lb. I will only be able to see that if I am to change the base/rail or when they loosen up. But everything went well all 4 bolts torqued to specs.
You can clearly see here that the bolt on the right has more gap after torqueing than the left.
Then I installed the rings checked for alignment and lapped them a bit more ~ 60% and seated the scope.
Then about removing the stock, I read savage's manual and recommends to remove the screw at the front of magwell and the one beneath the bolt release. But I've seen youtube vids also removing the 3rd screw behind the trigger guard. So do all 3 has to be loosened? That's why I think I will shoot this first with the factory-installed stock.
Is it very complicated reinstalling the stock back as one has to torque the bolts in a particular order with 5 in.-lb increments until the full torque specs? Need inputs on this.
I wiped off the oil completely. Then installing only the 2 front screws tightened them a bit, I checked for slop on the rear of the rail, but I can only find very very minimal slop/gap. But I was telling myself this aluminum rail may have already bent a bit since it was already installed at the factory. I didn't consider bedding with JB weld for minimal gap considering my rings already aligned from the previous install.
But I would really be interested on how much a new rail leave a gap for bedding. So I degreased the holes, screws. Put a very thin film of grease on top of receiver and then installed the 4 bolts with blue loctite.
I noticed as well that the first screw hole towards the muzzle, you would see the barrel threads (a bit flattened by the screw) in the chamber:
Since the 4 bolts are all of the same lengths, I was considering shortening 1 screw but was very hesitant as I may not be able to start threading it back. So I just left it alone. But I hope I didn't mess-up with threads (barrel & base screw) upon torqueing to 20 in-lb. I will only be able to see that if I am to change the base/rail or when they loosen up. But everything went well all 4 bolts torqued to specs.
You can clearly see here that the bolt on the right has more gap after torqueing than the left.
Then I installed the rings checked for alignment and lapped them a bit more ~ 60% and seated the scope.
Then about removing the stock, I read savage's manual and recommends to remove the screw at the front of magwell and the one beneath the bolt release. But I've seen youtube vids also removing the 3rd screw behind the trigger guard. So do all 3 has to be loosened? That's why I think I will shoot this first with the factory-installed stock.
Is it very complicated reinstalling the stock back as one has to torque the bolts in a particular order with 5 in.-lb increments until the full torque specs? Need inputs on this.
Good stuff redstar
The gap under the rail before bedding, i usually notice it by tapping on it with my finger
My experience, if ever down the road you purchase an ATRS steel rail, it did not need any bedding even if i wanted to.
It comes with it's own torque screws also, and one of them is shorter than the others for the front over barrel threads.
The gap under the rail before bedding, i usually notice it by tapping on it with my finger
My experience, if ever down the road you purchase an ATRS steel rail, it did not need any bedding even if i wanted to.
It comes with it's own torque screws also, and one of them is shorter than the others for the front over barrel threads.
Is the atrs rail adds so much weight on the rifle?
btw, my OCD kicked in regarding that first screw on top of the barrel threads. So I removed the half rings and scope. Unscrewed that first screw, and you know what, it really doesn't touch the barrel threads. First, the end bottom surface of the screw has no marks and I measured the length of the screw marked on a toothpick and it really doesn't touch the threads.
So the thing is EGW bored that hole on the rail wherein the screw sits in a bit higher than the other three.
Degreased and cleaned the old blue loctite, reapplied and torqued. So now I can sleep soundly!
btw, my OCD kicked in regarding that first screw on top of the barrel threads. So I removed the half rings and scope. Unscrewed that first screw, and you know what, it really doesn't touch the barrel threads. First, the end bottom surface of the screw has no marks and I measured the length of the screw marked on a toothpick and it really doesn't touch the threads.
So the thing is EGW bored that hole on the rail wherein the screw sits in a bit higher than the other three.
Degreased and cleaned the old blue loctite, reapplied and torqued. So now I can sleep soundly!
Makes sense! (the way the EGW hole was drilled in rail)
Yes the ATRS does add weight, it's a heavy rail, since my scope and mount are weighing in at more than 3.5lbs, i wanted it to sit on steel rather than aluminium.
If ever you would be going 20moa later down the road, at least their rail fitted absolutely perfect without any bedding. You can even torque it a little higher than EGW.
Myself can't wait for the weather to get better to join an Ottawa area range to shoot my 10TR more.
Yes the ATRS does add weight, it's a heavy rail, since my scope and mount are weighing in at more than 3.5lbs, i wanted it to sit on steel rather than aluminium.
If ever you would be going 20moa later down the road, at least their rail fitted absolutely perfect without any bedding. You can even torque it a little higher than EGW.
Myself can't wait for the weather to get better to join an Ottawa area range to shoot my 10TR more.
The rail screws on my 10TR came loose after about 80 rounds. I had to remove the scope and rings to remove the rail, clean off the oil and Loctite the screws in. I did a bore sight and 5 rounds later was sighted in. Torque screwdrivers are almost a must for working on this stuff unless you have a calibrated hand, ha ha ha!
Make sure to replace your basescrews with EGW's torx screws the next time it come loose on you.
http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts-rings/replacement-torx-screws/
http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts-rings/replacement-torx-screws/
