My Cerakote Nightmare

Nate.308 said:
10-4
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Well looks like you gotta send it back to AI.

Page 33 of the manual.
WARNING - DO NOT REMOVE THE CLAMPING SCREW AND DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMPING SCREW WITH THE BARREL REMOVED.

WARNING - IF THE BARREL ROTATES AFTER TIGHTENING THE CLAMPING SCREW, RETIGHTEN THE BARREL AND BARREL CLAMPING SCREW AS DESCRIBED ABOVE.WHERE NECESSARY, REPEAT THE REMOVAL AND REFITTING PROCEDURE. IF THIS DOES NOT PROPERLY SECURE THE BARREL, THE RIFLE MUST BE INSPECTED BY AN ACCURACY INTERNATIONAL QUALIFIED GUNSMITH OR ARMOURER. ALWAYS ENSURE THE LOCK RING IS IN PLACE AND IS SECURE. THIS CAN BE INSPECTED THROUGH THE EJECTION PORT.
 
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The manual refers to the screw as the “Barrel Clamping Screw”

This barrel clamping screws holds the barrel in place as part of the quick change feature

The barrel clamp screw will come loose after a few firings and the barrel loosen,changing the POI
 
Nate.308 said:
The manual refers to the screw as the “Barrel Clamping Screw”

This barrel clamping screws holds the barrel in place as part of the quick change feature

The barrel clamp screw will come loose after a few firings and the barrel loosen,changing the POI
Click to expand...

Yes but you're not suppose to completely take it out, but loosen it enough to take the barrel off.
 
Sinasta said:
Well looks like you gotta send it back to AI.

Page 33 of the manual.
WARNING - DO NOT REMOVE THE CLAMPING SCREW AND DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMPING SCREW WITH THE BARREL REMOVED.

WARNING - IF THE BARREL ROTATES AFTER TIGHTENING THE CLAMPING SCREW, RETIGHTEN THE BARREL AND BARREL CLAMPING SCREW AS DESCRIBED ABOVE.WHERE NECESSARY, REPEAT THE REMOVAL AND REFITTING PROCEDURE. IF THIS DOES NOT PROPERLY SECURE THE BARREL, THE RIFLE MUST BE INSPECTED BY AN ACCURACY INTERNATIONAL QUALIFIED GUNSMITH OR ARMOURER. ALWAYS ENSURE THE LOCK RING IS IN PLACE AND IS SECURE. THIS CAN BE INSPECTED THROUGH THE EJECTION PORT.
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Appreciate this! I’ve never put the clamp screw on without the barrel in place, my conclusion is to have the guys at wolverine work their magic..
 
Could there be something in the threads that was used for masking that is lowering the coefficient of friction on the screw? This would explain why it shakes loose. Could try wiping them down with a solvent on a q tip.
 
Is there supposed to be a nut or something on the interior side of the action besides the action itself that the bolt threads into before making contact with the barrel?

The AI user manual says the locking ring must be in place and this can be inspected through the ejection port. Is the locking ring present and correctly in place or has it gone missing? If it's not there the barrel will not be seated correctly and will have play.

The user manual is very clear and says in huge bold red text that the barrel clamping screw should never be completely removed from the action. When you took it apart for cerakoting you did exactly this. Clearly AI had a reason for saying not to remove it and it's the issue now have.
 
It’s very difficult to tell beyond what I’ve described but I really do appreciate all the suggestions, I purchased the rifle from Wolverine and I will return the rifle to them for diagnose and solution of the problem. Ultimately it’s all learning and if someone out there in CNG land takes something from this even better!
 
Nate.308 said:
It appears the nuts in place, and the screw torques nicely, just comes loose
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Have you tried degreasing the screw and its threaded hole in the receiver? Sounds like something may have gotten on those surfaces during the coating process and now it is slipping torque. Try some brakecleaner.

Give the treaded hole a good spray out, brakecleaner will not harm cerakote. Tape off the receiver epoxy areas as a precaution.
 
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There is an interesting surplus of information here. Thanks for all your diligent suggestions! I am going to have a look at my AI AT since I am switching from 308 to a 260 barrel and back! :cool:

Cheers, Barney
 
if the barreled action was baked to long or hot the glue in the action bedding interface may have released and the action could be loose in the chassis. Heat is how you can remove a glued in AI action. Also if the scew was decreased it could possible use just a dab of grease or pipe thread dope
 
Hi all,

Just riecived an email from the smith yesterday stating

“Our Gunsmith has been over the rifle and has it shooting very well. Barrel stayed tight with more than 12 rounds fired, and the accuracy level was in spec.

Here is what he found:

“Upon inspection there was paint on the barrel shoulder, the mating surface on the receiver, as well as paint over spray into the threads. Paint was polished/cleaned off these surfaces to allow the barrel to completely bottom out and tighten in properly. Barrel was then torqued down. Upon further inspection the upper rail was not sitting 100% flush as you could see light on the rear end between the rail and the receiver. The rail was removed and a build up of paint was found in the one corner. The paint was polished off the surfaces and mated back down.”

Back-and-forth with the Smith that did the coding, and he is going to cover the repairs and offered a refund, just took a while to sort out but just please I have my rifle back.

It wasn’t the barrel screw...
 
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