My finished 10/22
- Thread starter 410001661
- Start date
604shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Neither here nor there.
Clean and simple....just the way I like em.
604shooter said:
Clean and simple.... just what I was gonna say....
Looks good John!!!
You should really consider getting a weaponkraft bolt buffer .... it's only 5.95$ and you will notice a difference immedietly....
Maybe you should consider these also in the future...
(order of preference)
1. Power custom hammer and sear package (reduce trigger pull)
2. auto bolt release
3. butler creek steel lips high capacity magazine
4. butler creek magazine loader
http://www.hawktecharms.com/ruger/10-22.htm
Goose25 said:
Go with a VQ hammer ,Hands down over PC and you DONT need the sear package (waste of money ) and you can do the auto bolt release your self as well as the extended mag release .
Nice looking gun and How do you like the scope?
I agree that it is quite simple to make your own autobolt release. You can also make your own extended mag release, (but IMHO, they are just plain ugly). Also have to agree that you don't need an aftermarket sear, all you need to do is a little polishing and your good to go!!! I must disagree with you about the VQ hammer being the better of the two, I have tried both and prefer the PC hammer anyday....
Here's what the guys @ rimfirecentral think of the subject.
"We have spent the last few weeks analyzing what makes a great trigger job on a Ruger 10/22. We tried everything from the polishing tips posted on this site to the grinding and reshaping recommended by Clark Customs to swapping in and out various aftermarket spring, hammer and sear kits. Using actual measuring equipment instead of going by gut or feel, here are our results:
1. Polishing the hammer, sear faces, etc: There was an obvious difference in smoothness of trigger pull but negligible difference in trigger pull weight. We tried everything from light sanding to highly polished mirror finishes. Polishing the surfaces did not decrease trigger pull weight by more than 1lb.
2. Replacing spring sets: We tried Wolff, Power Custom, Volquartsen, etc. Wolff - trigger pull actually went up 1 lb. PC and VQ, very little difference when used by themselves.
3. Replacement hammer using stock springs and sear: This is where the first big difference came. By swapping out the stock hammer with a hammer using a different profile and opened up sear groove, trigger pull dropped significantly. Power Custom showed the greatest drop of the ones we tested, from 6.8lbs down to 3.
4. Replacement hammer with polishing the sear, hammer surfaces. Stock springs: This is where we found the best performance, both with VQ and PC hammers giving us between 2.5-2.9lbs pull and consistant smooth operation, again, PC performed a little better than VQ.
So, from our little experiment it seems the ulitmate trigger smoothness and pull weight comes from a combination of both using an aftermarket hammer and polishing the sear and hammer faces.
Something else we tried was high pressure glass bead blasting these surfaces after polishing. We found the beaded surface actually felt smoother than the mirror finish surfaces, but didn't affect the pull weight.
From our tests, we determined spring changes had very little effect on pull weight (the only thing we were measuring). There are a lot of other reasons for changing springs but if you are looking for pull weight, changing springs isn't going to help.
We also determined that polishing by itself will not reduce pull weight more than a pound or so. If you want that ultra light crisp trigger pull, you will have to spring for an aftermarket hammer and sear like the PC or VQ units. The re-designed profile of these units compared to a stock hammer is apparently the key to having a smooth, crisp, light trigger pull.
Having said this, we are the first to admit this was not the end-all of tests. Our results could have been affected by many things from the type of oil used (Break Free) to the temps at the test site (25-30 degrees F), but overall I think they are accurate."
-Mdw442
"The recontouring of the hammer you're talking about involves removing the infamous Ruger "hook" from the hammer and matching the engagement surface angle to that of the sear. In the original configuration the sear will fit completely behind the hook and to disengage the hammer the sear must be pulled by that hook, in effect further cocking the hammer before breaking. I agree that the PC hammer gives a better trigger than VQ, I just installed a PC kit in a WW Special and have a 2 lb 2 oz trigger without any special work.
As far as springs are concerned you are missing a very important point, the trigger return spring. I measured a stock Ruger spring and plunger at 1 lb 13 oz all by themselves. The PC trigger spring brought things down to 1 lb. This can be further improved with lighter springs but it may also require some polishing on the sear and disconnect for reliable operation. The ballpoint pen springs which have been described on a number of posts will also help. I have also used the opposing magnets for the trigger return and found that arrangement to be excellect with a force of 7 oz and flawless function. The latest modification to my Low Dough bench gun, the Polar Bear, is the installation of a Skeeter27red trigger. Skeeters design allows the use of an internal hairpin type spring for the trigger return. The spring that SQUAWSACH made for it gave a 3.5 oz force which does not stack. The current trigger pull on that gun is 12.3 oz. Of course we have done a few other things also.
The polishing of the engagement surfaces contributes to feel but the actual amount of engagement is even more important to pull weight. This is very evident with a hammer that has a set screw for adjusting sear engagement. Of course you do have to get rid of the hook first.
Good luck"
-sawdust
I guess in the end it all boils down to personal preference...
Here's what the guys @ rimfirecentral think of the subject.
"We have spent the last few weeks analyzing what makes a great trigger job on a Ruger 10/22. We tried everything from the polishing tips posted on this site to the grinding and reshaping recommended by Clark Customs to swapping in and out various aftermarket spring, hammer and sear kits. Using actual measuring equipment instead of going by gut or feel, here are our results:
1. Polishing the hammer, sear faces, etc: There was an obvious difference in smoothness of trigger pull but negligible difference in trigger pull weight. We tried everything from light sanding to highly polished mirror finishes. Polishing the surfaces did not decrease trigger pull weight by more than 1lb.
2. Replacing spring sets: We tried Wolff, Power Custom, Volquartsen, etc. Wolff - trigger pull actually went up 1 lb. PC and VQ, very little difference when used by themselves.
3. Replacement hammer using stock springs and sear: This is where the first big difference came. By swapping out the stock hammer with a hammer using a different profile and opened up sear groove, trigger pull dropped significantly. Power Custom showed the greatest drop of the ones we tested, from 6.8lbs down to 3.
4. Replacement hammer with polishing the sear, hammer surfaces. Stock springs: This is where we found the best performance, both with VQ and PC hammers giving us between 2.5-2.9lbs pull and consistant smooth operation, again, PC performed a little better than VQ.
So, from our little experiment it seems the ulitmate trigger smoothness and pull weight comes from a combination of both using an aftermarket hammer and polishing the sear and hammer faces.
Something else we tried was high pressure glass bead blasting these surfaces after polishing. We found the beaded surface actually felt smoother than the mirror finish surfaces, but didn't affect the pull weight.
From our tests, we determined spring changes had very little effect on pull weight (the only thing we were measuring). There are a lot of other reasons for changing springs but if you are looking for pull weight, changing springs isn't going to help.
We also determined that polishing by itself will not reduce pull weight more than a pound or so. If you want that ultra light crisp trigger pull, you will have to spring for an aftermarket hammer and sear like the PC or VQ units. The re-designed profile of these units compared to a stock hammer is apparently the key to having a smooth, crisp, light trigger pull.
Having said this, we are the first to admit this was not the end-all of tests. Our results could have been affected by many things from the type of oil used (Break Free) to the temps at the test site (25-30 degrees F), but overall I think they are accurate."
-Mdw442
"The recontouring of the hammer you're talking about involves removing the infamous Ruger "hook" from the hammer and matching the engagement surface angle to that of the sear. In the original configuration the sear will fit completely behind the hook and to disengage the hammer the sear must be pulled by that hook, in effect further cocking the hammer before breaking. I agree that the PC hammer gives a better trigger than VQ, I just installed a PC kit in a WW Special and have a 2 lb 2 oz trigger without any special work.
As far as springs are concerned you are missing a very important point, the trigger return spring. I measured a stock Ruger spring and plunger at 1 lb 13 oz all by themselves. The PC trigger spring brought things down to 1 lb. This can be further improved with lighter springs but it may also require some polishing on the sear and disconnect for reliable operation. The ballpoint pen springs which have been described on a number of posts will also help. I have also used the opposing magnets for the trigger return and found that arrangement to be excellect with a force of 7 oz and flawless function. The latest modification to my Low Dough bench gun, the Polar Bear, is the installation of a Skeeter27red trigger. Skeeters design allows the use of an internal hairpin type spring for the trigger return. The spring that SQUAWSACH made for it gave a 3.5 oz force which does not stack. The current trigger pull on that gun is 12.3 oz. Of course we have done a few other things also.
The polishing of the engagement surfaces contributes to feel but the actual amount of engagement is even more important to pull weight. This is very evident with a hammer that has a set screw for adjusting sear engagement. Of course you do have to get rid of the hook first.
Good luck"
-sawdust
I guess in the end it all boils down to personal preference...
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BCboy said:
I am very impressed with the scope. I was out to the skeet/sporting clay range today and had the .22 out (just looking....cannot shoot it there) and the scope was very bright and clear even out to 12x. Personally I would not go any cheaper than the Bushnell Legend - - that is just my opinion.
John
Goose25 said:
No offence and I am not tyring to sound like a prick , But I have Built 17 10/22's and 2 10/22magnums and also have done the old setback converion of a regular 10/22LR ---->22magnum (witch was documented and photografed every step and pubished on RFC) That is a total of 20 rugers I have built.
I have also had 20 or more board members 10/22's sent to me for bedding ,tweaking ,trigger work and other mods and I have seen 5 PC hammers that would not drop below 5lbs unless polished and tweekd.
I am not stomping on your opinion but Have yet to see a VQ hammer have any problems.
Read The old polls and posts on RFC and you see that the VQ will/has out do the PC
P.S. I have had 3 WC Buffers tear where the firing pin hits,thats why I had to find ones that work
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BCboy said:
On the contrary, I valued your opion... No offence taken.... for me .... this is the whole point of forums, hearing what other's have tried, what's worked for them, what's working for me, what's the new and improved mod/part... This sometime's leads to peolple having to agree to disagree. What worked for you might not necessarily mean it will work for me and vise versa. What we have to remember is that we are all in the same boat. Working as a team to gather the right information. This information could be from my own experience, others, and anywhere I can steal it.
B.T.W What's your take on Skeeter's Pre-Adjusted Hammer and adjustable Seer kit? I just ordered one for an other one of my 10/22 build's... It'll be the first time I try one...
